Author Topic: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978  (Read 4057 times)

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Offline AW-100

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How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
« on: December 3, 2016, 11:50:28 am »
With the wheels firmly on the ground, remove cotter pin and axle hub nut with washer. The nut can sit pretty tight.


Remove the brake calliper and lift it out of your way. Just leave it attached to the brake hose, and lay it on top of the axle where it will lie steady.


I bought a brake puller for rotors and drums, and attached it to the lug nuts. The rotor and hub assembly came loose easily.


On the right hand side I was lucky, and the hub assembly came loose off the wheel bearing and axle seal with ease.


On this side I just replaced the axle seal carefully since I had the parts, and I had everything else loose. Clean everything up nicely, and make sure the wheel bearing inside is packed with grease. Notice the grease nipple to the left of the axle, I'll get back to that one.


Now the wheel hub is attached to the rotor from the outside. To separate these you first have to hammer the lug bolts through the rotor. Be careful with the lug bolt threads: Thread a lug nut onto the bolt, and make sure to thread it on at least 10mm. Make sure to support the rotor level on a surface, as the center of the hub builds deeper then the rotor itself. Then locate your faithful BFH (Big F'in Hammer) and give the lug nut some serious pounding, and the lug bolt drops clean through. Check the status, and clean them throughoutly if you intend to reuse those.


Once all 5 lug nuts are hammered through, place the hub assembly in your workshop press. (Bought one for the occasion.) Separate the hub and the rotor, and discard of the old rotor. You need to use the hub again, so clean it throughoutly, both the splines inside and the wheel bearing and axle seal mating areas on outside.


Now, I do have experience with new brake parts rusting if mounted untreated, so I gave them a coat of paint.


Now line up the new rotor with the now cleaned hub. Make sure to match up the inspection hole in the rotor with the hole in the hub. You need those to grease up your wheel bearing. Drop two lug bolts into the assembly, to make sure the rotor and hub are lined up correctly. Use the press to seat the rotor to the hub.


Locate your trustworthy BFH again, and hammer the bolts through with a chisel or a piece of pipe or something. If the lug bolts don't seat all the way in, you will reseat them with your lug nuts when you mount the wheel at the end of the process. 


Make sure there are enough grease on the wheel bearing inside the axle seal, and place the hub assembly onto the drive shaft. Align the splines on the axle with the splines of the hub, and drive the hub assembly into the axle. It's a tight fit to fit into the wheel bearing, so I had to place a rubber mallet against the hub assembly, and locate my BFSledgehammer and pound it against the rubber mallet. Once the axle nut threads attach to the driveshaft threads, fit the washer and the axle hub nut, and use the axle hub nut to seat the hub assembly into the wheel bearing and onto the driveshaft. Once you can feel the hub nut seat against it's stop, back the nut off 1/8 turn and align the hub nut for a new cotter pin.


Next open the master cylinder, and push back the calliper piston to facilitate for the thicker rotor and brake pads. I bought a tool for the job, but it can be done with a wise grip or such.


Mount the calliper back in place with new brake pads. Remember copper grase or anti-squeal compound on the pads where they come in contact with the calliper. Close the master cylinder again so you don't forget.


Once you have it all mounted together, remember to grease up the wheel bearings through the grease nipple I commented earlier in the thread. Just turn the rotor til you have the inspection hole lined up with the grease nipple. If you have both front wheels off the ground you turn the rotors by hand.



On the left side the wheel bearing and the axle seal came out with the hub assembly.So I cleaned the axle up nicely.


But the opening in the rotor is smaller than the diameter of the bearing and the seal. So after I removed the lug bolts, the wheel bearing and the axle seal came off as I pressed the hub from the old rotor. Since I had bought new bearings, I replaced this one. Just had to pack this bearing troughoutly with grease before installing. I used the Timken SET25. This set contains 2 wheel bearings, so you only need one set if you just want to replace the rotors. You could probably reuse the old ones as well.

Ideally you just pack the new bearing with greasee and install into the axle. Then you mount the new axle seal carefully with a hammer, and place the hub assembly onto the drive shaft. Align the splines on the axle with the splines of the hub, and drive the hub assembly into the axle. On this side I had to use the workshop press to remove the old bearing from the hub, so obviously, the trick with the rubber mallet and the sledgehammer didn't work on this side.


So I had to remove the hub assembly again, and the new wheel bearing and axle seal. I mounted the axle seal onto the hub, and pressed the new bearing onto the hub assembly. The wheel bearing set also came with new bearing races, used to press the bearing in place. Not all the way in though, I wanted to use the axle hub nut to pull the assembly far enough into the axle, and seat the wheel bearing correct. Til the nut stops, and 1/8 back and align for the cotter pin. Do the thing about the brakes, and you are all set.


Attach the wheels. Remember that the lug bolts might not be seated correctly, so you might need to use the lug nuts to pull the bolts in place. Lower the car to the ground. Then loosen the lug nuts again, and retighten them, so as to feel that the lug bolts are seated correctly in the hub assembly.

Now step on the brakes, to let the new brake pads seat against the rotors. Take a test run and try out your brakes before you hit the streets!
« Last Edit: July 6, 2017, 04:32:09 am by AW-100 »
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    Offline mopar65pa

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #1 on: December 11, 2016, 12:26:21 pm »
     {cool}

    Been a long time since I've done one of those.  ;D
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    Offline grASSkicker

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #2 on: March 4, 2018, 12:47:47 am »
    I will be doing this sometime soon and will reference this thread. First step is getting these locking lugnuts off without the key. Very little clearace between lugnut and the hole it is recessed into...weld on a T-handle? Lol

    Offline Elwenil

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #3 on: March 4, 2018, 02:28:55 am »
    Go to a couple tire shops and see if they have a key kit.  If they only have the cone removal tool, it's probably going to scar up your rim.

    In the future, don't post in sticky threads unless you have something to add to the thread.  Random questions just clutter up the thread and make it harder to get to the real info.
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    Offline Cokeorcoffee

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #4 on: April 15, 2018, 09:09:25 pm »
    I did this recently to replace the rotor on my 77 PW. Mine was so firmly in place that I ruined two good pullers. I finally made a puller with a 1 1/4" fine thread ready bolt. Snugged it up and since the rotor was no good anyway, I took my bfh and beat the living you know what out of it and after about 15 minutes of invigorating beating, it finally started to move. Why did Dodge design something like this other than to boost labor amounts?
    Hopefully in about six months, I will be driving my restoration project. 77 PW 1/2 ton short bed. 335 HP 360, 727 fact A/C.PS & PB. 27" to the top of the rocker panels. Family owned since new. Itza beast.  ;D

    Offline RCCADMAN

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #5 on: February 3, 2019, 06:09:07 pm »
    I have a 74 Service Manual for a full time front end. I thought this might be helpful to add here.

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    « Last Edit: February 3, 2019, 06:11:42 pm by RCCADMAN »
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    Offline ReidV

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #6 on: February 10, 2020, 08:31:53 am »
    Hello, i noticed when you were re-installing you used a rubber hammer and Sledge hammer. How much force did it take?  I'm re-installing mine now and im concerned about how force to use when pounding it back on.

    Also do you a have a contact to buy the shield that is mounted in behind the rotors?  I cant find a replacement anywhere.
    Thanks Victor

    Offline AW-100

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    Re: How to replace brake rotors full time 4x4 Ramcharger / PW 1978
    « Reply #7 on: February 10, 2020, 08:36:54 am »
    Nah it wasnt that much force. I used the weight og the sledge hammer only. The rubber hammer just «softened the blow». Just make sure that the splines are alligned before you start using force.

    Couldn’t find new brake shields, so I just tore them both off when I did mine.
    My wife's car only has half an engine!

     

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