Author Topic: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ  (Read 77321 times)

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Offline DODGEBOYS

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Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
« Reply #50 on: May 11, 2007, 01:11:44 pm »
theres a little more to it than that because the seal that holds the gear lube in is in a completely different spot between the two axle designs
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    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #51 on: May 11, 2007, 01:20:03 pm »
    I dont know if it is possible but couldnt you take a left side axle shaft from a dana 44 that came standard with manual hubs and slap it in to were the 2 piece axle shaft was, and then completly take out the vacuum crap all together.
    you would need to:

    *remove the old axle bearing / seal
    *remove the diff
    *install a noncad style seal inside the axle tube
    *install diff
    * install a spindle bearing inside the spindle
    * put it all back together

    do something to seal the hole left by removing all the vacuum crap.
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    Offline comrade cheddar

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #52 on: May 12, 2007, 09:27:26 am »






    "The smallest minority on earth is the individual. Those who deny individual rights cannot claim to be defenders of minorities." - Ayn Rand

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    Offline hkj

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #53 on: September 29, 2007, 09:35:27 am »
    Ok people now that I totally confused someone help me please!!!!  Maybe it was too much lead paint as a kid. ??? ;D

    I have an 87 RC 44's, CAD, 208 transfer, 727 tranny.  I have read through the How To's and this thread. 

    1) If I want to convert to manuel locking hubs all I have to do for example is buy a set of WARN PREMIUM MANUAL HUBS install them and lock the CAD? Correct?

    3) Can I still use the facotry shifter to shift the now manual locking hubs?

    2) When you say lock the CAD you mean so that it can not engage the 4x4 correct?

    3)Trucks pupose work, hunting and medium-hard 4x4ing not extream
    a. If want to beef up my 44 axles with after market kits instead putting 60's on it is it cheaper and worth it?
        b. Current gear ratio is  3.23/3.21 which is front and rear?
        c. Currently has 31's (wheels) what is a good ratio to run  33-36's and idea of cost?
        d. If I beef up the axles and change the gear ratio I can still make it manule locking correct or do I run into probelms with Warns (or others) fitting the new axle set up?
         e. Do I need to beef the rear axle?

    4) The benifits of manule locking hubs are better gas milage becuase it's not in 4x4 all the time, better traction when off roading and better handeling on dry pavement, correct?

    5) The 87 RC has has a hold off vale connected to the combination valve to help with the drum and disk brakes on slick surfaces like ice. 
        a. How does changing from full time 4x4 to part time effet this if at all?
        b. If I change gear ratios will this effect this?

    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #54 on: November 27, 2007, 03:40:12 am »
    1) If I want to convert to manuel locking hubs all I have to do for example is buy a set of WARN PREMIUM MANUAL HUBS install them and lock the CAD? Correct?
    You can simply add the hubs. Use the pics listed above to help. You take out the drive flanges and add your "manual" hubs. If you want shift on the fly lock you hubs and leave the vacuum system alone. If you want a true manual system flip the CAD fork 180 degrees and eliminate the vacuum system.
    Quote
    3) Can I still use the facotry shifter to shift the now manual locking hubs?
    Yes
    Quote
    2) When you say lock the CAD you mean so that it can not engage the 4x4 correct?
    Locking the CAD means to manually position the shift fork so your driver side axle shaft is always "locked" in.
    Quote
    3)Trucks pupose work, hunting and medium-hard 4x4ing not extream
    a. If want to beef up my 44 axles with after market kits instead putting 60's on it is it cheaper and worth it?
    Totally up to you. Do you want to carry a 5 dollar part and a big enough wrench as well as some vacuum line? Or do you want to carry some hex wrenches, and an extra set of hubs or drive flanges with you. Its up to you. Most CADs suffer from a faulty Transfer case switch that is easy to replace.
    Quote
    b. Current gear ratio is 3.23/3.21 which is front and rear?
    Dont know. Your on your own
    Quote
    c. Currently has 31's (wheels) what is a good ratio to run 33-36's and idea of cost?
    Go with 4.10s for the 33s and 4.56 with the 35 plus. Cost = 500 to 700 per axle unless you do it yourself. Then its parts and tools.
    Quote
    d. If I beef up the axles and change the gear ratio I can still make it manule locking correct or do I run into probelms with Warns (or others) fitting the new axle set up?
     e. Do I need to beef the rear axle?
    No effin clue
    Quote
    4) The benifits of manule locking hubs are better gas milage becuase it's not in 4x4 all the time, better traction when off roading and better handeling on dry pavement, correct?
    Sure. If you buy into it. I gained a minute amount of MPG. Not enough to worry about my daily 56 mile commute. Enough to factor in When I go to NE from NV. (1100 miles) Dry pavement vs wet pavement and handling is not an issue with the CAD set up unless you lock your front end
    Quote
    5) The 87 RC has has a hold off vale connected to the combination valve to help with the drum and disk brakes on slick surfaces like ice.
     a. How does changing from full time 4x4 to part time effet this if at all?
     b. If I change gear ratios will this effect this?

    Take these questions to the tech board for more specific and detailed answers.

    Hope some of this post helped.
    Quote
    « Last Edit: November 27, 2007, 03:43:48 am by willy J »
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

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    Offline cadroncreek

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #55 on: March 25, 2008, 11:05:07 am »
    Guys i just want to say this is the best thread i've seen yet, i am fixing to do the exact same thing to my '85 charger. Thanks guys for all the pics, that is very helpful to a pic guy like myself!! ;)

    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #56 on: September 2, 2008, 03:59:10 pm »
    That was the goal...

    Glad it helped. Thank you.
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    Offline Shanex-2

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #57 on: July 2, 2009, 10:03:54 pm »
    you would need to:

    *remove the old axle bearing / seal
    *remove the diff
    *install a noncad style seal inside the axle tube
    *install diff
    * install a spindle bearing inside the spindle
    * put it all back together

    do something to seal the hole left by removing all the vacuum crap.
    well that answers my question about just repacing that side of the axleshaft. looks like I will just permanatly lock the cad in place
    function before style

    Offline hoov100

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #58 on: October 13, 2009, 09:32:36 pm »
    Does anyone have the part number for the vacuum switch on the transfer case? napa, autozone, kragen..etc dont even list it in their computers.

    Offline wydomkr

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #59 on: November 21, 2009, 12:29:59 am »
    So I recently bought a set of axles for my 85 with 4:10's in them to replace my 3:23's, they have Warn hubs instead of the stock permanent set-ups. (not sure how to describe them, they are not the automatic hubs) like my 85 had.  Just the chrome caps on the end.  Anyway, is there a way to tell if the CAD had been converted also without taking it apart?

    Would it be common place for a person to put lock-out hubs on a CAD front end without doing the conversion?  These came from a serious off-roader, but I cannot contact them to ask questions.
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    Offline DODGEN1

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #60 on: December 10, 2009, 11:42:07 pm »
    the vacume scematic does not show the vacume ball and mines got 2 vacume hoses going to the 2 barrel carb.
    75 W100 440 727 203 44f 60r 4.10's

    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #61 on: December 29, 2009, 10:36:07 pm »
    Does anyone have the part number for the vacuum switch on the transfer case? napa, autozone, kragen..etc dont even list it in their computers.
    Get one for a jeep cherokee Napa 730-1637. Same thing. I believe I referenced it in the top of the post.



    « Last Edit: December 29, 2009, 11:05:26 pm by willy J »
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

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    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #62 on: December 29, 2009, 11:00:51 pm »
    So I recently bought a set of axles for my 85 with 4:10's in them to replace my 3:23's, they have Warn hubs instead of the stock permanent set-ups. (not sure how to describe them, they are not the automatic hubs) like my 85 had.  Just the chrome caps on the end.  Anyway, is there a way to tell if the CAD had been converted also without taking it apart?
    They are called manual hubs. if you can rotate a dial to "lock" in four wheel drive.

    No. Not really. short of pulling the four bolts and checking the shift fork.... OR, jack up the truck on the left side. The CAD is on the long tube of the axle housing. with the hub locked spin the tire and your driveshaft should rotate. Engine off and the other tires on the ground. If the front driveshaft spins youre cad is stuck or locked, if it does not rotate then crank the engine and shift to 4x then spin the tire again. It should spin this time.

    If you want to manually lock it read the contents of this post!


    Would it be common place for a person to put lock-out hubs on a CAD front end without doing the conversion?  These came from a serious off-roader, but I cannot contact them to ask questions.
    Yes people do that all the time. it lets the front wheels free spin. The factory used drive flanges which had your axles rotating all the time causing drag and wear and loss of mileage. Manual hubs allow you to free wheel the front end and save wear and tear and also nets you a mile or two of fuel mileage gains.
    « Last Edit: December 29, 2009, 11:04:18 pm by willy J »
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

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    Offline wydomkr

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #63 on: December 30, 2009, 01:13:47 pm »
    They are called manual hubs. if you can rotate a dial to "lock" in four wheel drive.

    Thanks for the reply.

    What I meant was, I didn't know what the stock set-up was called with just the chrome cap on the end, no locking hub at all, either automatic or manual.  I'm assuming the set-up with the chrome cap was just "locked-in" all the time.

    Your other explanation told me what I need to do to check if the CAD is locked.  Thanks.
    1985 RamCharger Royal SE, 360, 727, 208
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    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #64 on: December 30, 2009, 08:09:42 pm »
    Its called a drive flange.

    Its a geared slug that is splined to the axleshaft and to the outer hub.
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

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    Offline Elwenil

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #65 on: December 30, 2009, 08:56:44 pm »
    Only the CAD axles had the flat stainless cap over the hub.  The only axles that were locked in all the time on W series trucks were the '75-'79 fulltime 4WD axles.
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    Offline wydomkr

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #66 on: December 31, 2009, 01:59:13 pm »
    I guess I will have to be careful with my wording.  I had a 77 ad a 79, so I understand full time 4 wheel drive.  What I meant was the axles were turning all time, since there is no hub either automatic or manual to disengage them, but I said "locked in" which was the wrong way to say it.
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    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #67 on: January 1, 2010, 02:38:59 am »
    Only the CAD axles had the flat stainless cap over the hub.  The only axles that were locked in all the time on W series trucks were the '75-'79 fulltime 4WD axles.

    Not true....

    True to some extent. The only ones that had the flat stainless cap was the 85-93. They were"locked" in all the time also. They were just disconnected through a sliding collar on the long side of the axle. The outer hubs were "driven" as in the were spinning due to the connecting of the drive flange to the hub to the half shafts of the axle.

    The big difference was the 75-79 were driven ALL the time due to the 203 acting as an AWD type transfer case which only locked with the shifting of the case lever. For non rock crawlers both the NP 203 and a CAD will be just fine.



    I am gonna retract all of my statement since I found out you were a Chrysler parts representative for many years and probably know a hell of a lot more about dodge parts then I do. My experience stems from an 89 W150, 83 W150 RC, 85 W150 RC and a 90 W150 truck. a 77 W250 and a 78 RC.
    « Last Edit: January 5, 2010, 01:04:57 am by willy J »
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

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    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #68 on: January 5, 2010, 01:08:48 am »
    I guess I will have to be careful with my wording.  I had a 77 ad a 79, so I understand full time 4 wheel drive.  What I meant was the axles were turning all time, since there is no hub either automatic or manual to disengage them, but I said "locked in" which was the wrong way to say it.
    A 77 and a 79 had the NP 203 which was a full time transfer case. The T case had a differential in the transfer case!!! The axle used a unit bearing type front axle set up. Like a Jeep Cherokee or later model Dodge Truck (93 up) Dakota and Durango. Basically the front wheels were "driven" all the time and resulted in the wheels turning the axle shafts turning the pinion and ring instead of vice versa until the t case was engaged providing power to the D shaft to the R&P to the half shafts to the wheels!!!

    This results in more parasitic loss of your power of your engine and some more wear and tear of your drivetrain mainly your front axle since its rotating all the time.
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

    85 Ramcharger, 318, 727, NP208 4x
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    Offline dodgethis360

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    axel or transfer case problem dont know what to do
    « Reply #69 on: April 29, 2010, 09:16:24 pm »
    I have a 1987 Dodge Ram Charger everytime I get around 25-35mpg the front end of my ramcharger shakes really bad and if u stop u hear a small click. then u can go again until u reach 25-35mph. Idk if I broke something in my transfer case or if its something in the front axel. I know that the vacume pump isnt working on the front axel and that the light doesnt work anymore. I havent got to tear it apart yet to see what the problem is or how bad it really is, if anyone can give me any ideas on this Id appriciate it. thanx




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    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #70 on: May 1, 2010, 11:08:00 pm »
    well its simple. Disconnect your front axle. If it doesnt do it from the front then it was the Tcase. If it still does it then its the front axle. Id say if its shaking within a certain speed range you got a bad alignment or out of balance wheel. Is the clicking constant?

    Ditch the vacuum port read through the post and get an electric solenoid from a jeep part number is listed. then you wont have to worry about the CAD.
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

    85 Ramcharger, 318, 727, NP208 4x
    1990 W150 Shortbed 5.9 4spd 4x

    Offline DODGEBOYS

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #71 on: June 27, 2010, 08:35:02 am »
    CAD flow charts
    put your truck info HERE
    MOPAR TO YA!!!!!! AARON HOWORD TOWNSEND / SLANTEDMIND---GOD BLESSDODGEBOYS FSM STORE
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    Offline DODGEBOYS

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #72 on: June 27, 2010, 08:46:13 am »
    CAD flow chart 2
    put your truck info HERE
    MOPAR TO YA!!!!!! AARON HOWORD TOWNSEND / SLANTEDMIND---GOD BLESSDODGEBOYS FSM STORE
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    Offline DODGEBOYS

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #73 on: June 27, 2010, 08:54:42 am »
    CAD vacuum
    put your truck info HERE
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    Offline shadowmachine53

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #74 on: August 7, 2010, 09:24:28 pm »
    Sorry if this is getting annoying with all the question repeats. I have an '82 w150 with a dana 44 straight axle up front, I recently picked up another straight axle out of an '89 Ram Charger. I've heard that I could take the driver's side axle out and replace the two piece axle. Or I could flip and lock the cad together. Would that give me all time 4x4? I'm just a little confused.
    1982 Dodge W150 1/2 Ton, 2 bbl 318, 727 Tranny,8" lift(5" sus, 3" body) 35X12.5 Pro Comp M/Ts, 15X10 Weld Racing Rims.

    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #75 on: August 8, 2010, 11:46:45 am »
    You could. You would have to change some seals. Unless there is something wrong with your 82s front axle leave it as is.

    The all time that your thinking of isnt all time. Its not powered by say the t-case all the time. The way to explain it is that your 82 should/might have manual hubs. You have to physically lock them in.

    The 85 and up had a shift on the fly four by four. Wasnt always in four by four. But they used a drive flange instead of a manual hub so the front wheels are always spinning. There always connected to the axle shaft. Like Jeep cherokees and TJ, YJ type wranglers and later model 1993 up Dodge trucks.

    There not alltime always 4x4. Its just the drive flange locks the wheel to the axle. Putting on a manual hub saves some wear and tear on your front differential. As well as freeing up the spinning mass of the axle shaft and differential so you get some MPG on freeway trips.


    Unless the 82s front axle is bad I would just save the 89 axle for parts. Mainly the knuckles, brakes if good, hub centers, rotors and the passenger side driveshaft. As well as the center ring and pinion and differential if needed.

    Only a transfer case specifically a Np 203 will give you all time 4x4.
    using the driveflanges your "hubs" will always be locked in ready to shift at a moments notice
    using the manual hubs your can unlock the front wheels to free spin like a 2x4  when no additional traction is needed.

    Hope that helps. If you need more assistance feel free to email me and ill walk you through the terminology!
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

    85 Ramcharger, 318, 727, NP208 4x
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    Offline Drewmeyes88

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #76 on: August 8, 2010, 09:40:29 pm »
    Mine were in pretty good shape.

    Update. I did the Perm Lok. Too easy! You cannot screw it up as long as you follow the directions. As far as the vaccuum lines. Gone.... all 20 feet worth of them. Make sure you plug the open ports after youo disconnect the line. One is on the engine and the other is on the passenger side inner fender. A vacuum block.

    I did not remove the dingle ball on the crossmember but it is now dead weight. As far as the T case goes. One RCC member reported just finding a big enough plug that threaded in and called it good. I ordered a switch from a 81-84 Np 208 and put that in. It was easy. All I did was run the positive lead from the CAD switch back the T case and used a ring terminal and bolted it onto the new switch. It self grounds when you engage the T case so you can cut the other black wire off at the end of it.

    It all worked very well when I went to Moab and I had no problems. So there is an effective way to eliminate your CAD.

    You do not need the Perm Lok kit or the cable kit Unless you still want to run your drive flanges and have a in the cab shift to 4x4. Thats only if you dont want to get out and turn manual hubs. Or you could eliminate the CAD and run auto hubs.

    You can use the stock CAD cover and just flip the shift fork 180 degrees. That will save you money there. If you find a set of Warn premium hubs in a JY you can get a rebuild kit for them. While you are there just take the switch off of a 81-84 np 208 and you can do a CAD removal for less then 100$ bucks. Reliability is no longer expensive!


    Ok I'm sorry I really don't understand exactly what to do to eliminate the cad.  Can I take all the vacuum lines off and just get the perm a lok kit and plug the t case and that will work basically I just need to lnow exactly what I need to do the swap I want to be able to engage the 4x4 in the cab but if manual hubs is better just let me lnow thanks  
    « Last Edit: August 9, 2010, 12:02:20 pm by willy J »

    Offline shadowmachine53

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #77 on: August 11, 2010, 04:57:05 pm »
    Yes thanks it cleared up some confusion I had. The 82s front diff is complete toast, the owner before me ran it without fluid and ruined it all, the tie rod ends and ball joints are shot and it's horrible to drive down the road.  The only reason I bought the 89 dana is cause I picked it up for only $75, and everything is brand new pretty much, new ball joints tie rod ends ext. So would it just be better to just swap everything out of the 89 and into the 82? I've thought about swaping out the diff but I've never installed one before, I've heard it's pretty hard and time consuming. If you could help me out on how to do that I'd greatly appriciate it!  ;D
    1982 Dodge W150 1/2 Ton, 2 bbl 318, 727 Tranny,8" lift(5" sus, 3" body) 35X12.5 Pro Comp M/Ts, 15X10 Weld Racing Rims.

    Offline willy J

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #78 on: August 12, 2010, 08:50:21 am »
    Gotta check the FAQs! They have a wealth of knowledge. Also there is a link there or somewhere in the site on what it takes to stuff a NON CAD Axle shaft in a CAD style housing.

    Gonna have to pull some seals and bearings.
    One day when humanity wipes itself off the face of the earth I hope we do such a thorough job that no other intelligent life will realize what idiots we were.

    85 Ramcharger, 318, 727, NP208 4x
    1990 W150 Shortbed 5.9 4spd 4x

    Offline shadowmachine53

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #79 on: August 12, 2010, 07:04:28 pm »
    Then the search is on! Thanks man I appreciate the help ;D
    1982 Dodge W150 1/2 Ton, 2 bbl 318, 727 Tranny,8" lift(5" sus, 3" body) 35X12.5 Pro Comp M/Ts, 15X10 Weld Racing Rims.

    Offline PigPen5150

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #80 on: August 13, 2010, 03:52:49 pm »
    Thanks to everyone for the pics and wisdom on this subject. Tried to flip my CAD motor a few days ago and I was unsuccessful. What is the purpose of flipping the fork around?
    Just a poor boy doin' the best I can with what I got...
    '85 RC 318 CAD locked 4 speed & 31's

    Offline PigPen5150

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #81 on: August 14, 2010, 10:27:28 pm »
    OK, think I got it figured out. removed both e-clips and moved the fork over, then moved the shaft. put an e-clip back in to hold the fork then moved the collar over to connect the shafts. Put the CAD assembly back in with the fork over the collar. I'll find out tomorrow if it works. Goin out ballooning in the AM and there are some places to test out the 4WD.

    Update: It works, and quite well too!
    « Last Edit: October 29, 2010, 04:21:05 am by PigPen5150 »
    Just a poor boy doin' the best I can with what I got...
    '85 RC 318 CAD locked 4 speed & 31's

    Offline bax89

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #82 on: October 28, 2010, 04:22:28 am »
    i pulled the cad out of my RC the other day and when i did i only saw one of the eclips that were talked about either and i looked over the hole thing to see if there were more! any ideas about this?

    Offline pir2

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #83 on: October 28, 2010, 10:30:35 am »
    i pulled the cad out of my RC the other day and when i did i only saw one of the eclips that were talked about either and i looked over the hole thing to see if there were more! any ideas about this?
    Has the CAD already been locked in?
    2014 Challenger SXT
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    Offline ToxicDoc

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #84 on: January 28, 2011, 03:02:00 am »
    bump a good thread ttt.
    '85 W150 SB, 408 stroker, Magnum manifolds, Performer RPM, 670 Truck Avenger, HEI ignition, Auburn LSD 9.25 and '82 D44 (non-CAD) with 3.55/3.54,  NV4500/NP241

    Offline crashing513

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #85 on: May 14, 2011, 03:20:58 pm »
    had to go in with fingers in a muddy field to get it to work. after removing e clips how do u get pin to com out to flip the fork

    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #86 on: May 14, 2011, 03:32:08 pm »
    had to go in with fingers in a muddy field to get it to work. after removing e clips how do u get pin to com out to flip the fork
    You do not flip the fork, just remove the one clip, slide the fork over, and replace the clip.
    77 W200, 360/727/NP203/D44HD/D60 (Wifes Toy)
    77 M887- 318/727/NP203 D44HD/D60
    78/86 Ramcharger.  360/727/NP203 D44/9&1/4
    85/89/90 D150/W250 5.9TBI/435/241 D44HD/D60HD
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    Offline crashing513

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #87 on: May 15, 2011, 11:43:20 am »
    k i understand the consept but witch clup thers still enough play for it to move ist there?

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #88 on: November 10, 2011, 04:58:19 am »
    i think i understand how to permanatly lock the cad, i just wish i knew when the shift collar is in the locked position, i see comrade cheddar has 2 pictures above showing the shift collar im just wondering if the first picture shows the collar being in the un locked position and the second picture shows the shift collar being in the locked position or vise versa? if i knew i am certain i can do this, im assuming the first picture is showing the collar in the locked position and the seond picture is showing the shift collar being in the un locked position, because in the second picture you can see two axle shafts and in the first picture you can only see part of one of the axle shafts so if i were to take a gues id guess that the first picture comrade cheddar posted is showing the collar in the locked position, so assuming it is i gotta slide the collar up on the other axle shaft and then remove one of the c clips and slide the fork as far as it will go in the opposite direction and replace the c clip in the froove on the sahft and bolt the vaccume motor back on to axle plug up the vaccume ports on the vaccume motor and under the hood and im good to go? if i have this down right somone please tell me, if i dont please send me in the right direction. im getting ready to try and tackle this tommarrow and would feel more comfortable doing it if i knew what im thinking i gotta do is correct.
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #89 on: November 10, 2011, 11:43:43 am »
    Yes, you have the right idea.  to help assure you, this is the pic with the CAD collar in the lock position.  The whole procedure sounds a lot worse then it actually is.



    After you do this, the 4x4 light will most likely be on all the time, you can just unplug the wires at the CAD unit to keep it off.
    77 W200, 360/727/NP203/D44HD/D60 (Wifes Toy)
    77 M887- 318/727/NP203 D44HD/D60
    78/86 Ramcharger.  360/727/NP203 D44/9&1/4
    85/89/90 D150/W250 5.9TBI/435/241 D44HD/D60HD
    85 W350 360/727/241 D44HD/D60
    97 B3500 5.9MPFI/518 D60HD
    20 Pacifica Hybrid, 3.6 V6, EVT 1 speed trans.
    projects:
    85 Country Coach RV, 5.9 Cummins/TH475,GV od,US gear Exhaust brake,D70HD (4 wheel disk brakes, 10 lug 19.5 rims.

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #90 on: November 10, 2011, 07:56:57 pm »
    ok this is confusing me to my witts end  ??? the directions say to take the c clip off the shift fork and to slid the shift fork to the opposite side and place c clip in same groove i did that, then is says to reach in the axle tube and slide the shift collar as far to the passenger side of the truck as you can, well when i slide my shift collar to the passnger side it looks the exact same way as the un locked picture comrade chedsdar posted??? why is it backwords for me? is my front axle differnt then the ones ppl are talking about on here? my pumpkin is on the passenger side on my truck? could that have something to do with it? i just dont get it cause when i took my vaccume motor apart my shift collar was in the locked position but my shift fork was free to move back an forth? so why was my 4x4 not working? i guess what i should be asking is, does the shift collar have to be slid over the top of both axle shafts? therefore being able to turn both axle shafts? because when i slide my shift collar as far as i can to the passenger side the shift collar is no longer over the top of the axle coming from the drivers side? i put it all together with the shift fork slid as far away from the vaccume motor as possible and slid my shift collar as far as i could to the passenger side and bolted it back together and my 4x4 still didnt work. so im thinking the shift collar has to be slid over both of the axles so that both axles can turn am i coorect?
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #91 on: November 10, 2011, 08:29:38 pm »
    The end result that you need, is the color should cover both axle sections, and the fork should be stuck in the position that has the fork in the grove of the collar.

    How do you know the 4wd is not working.

    Once you do this conversion, the 4x4 light is not going to be an indicator of the truck being in 4wd.

    The simplest way to check the if the CAD is locked, is with all the wheels on the ground, grab the front drive shaft, and try to turn it, with the CAD locked  transfer case in 2wd, (and any locking hubs locked), the drive shaft should not be able to turn.
    77 W200, 360/727/NP203/D44HD/D60 (Wifes Toy)
    77 M887- 318/727/NP203 D44HD/D60
    78/86 Ramcharger.  360/727/NP203 D44/9&1/4
    85/89/90 D150/W250 5.9TBI/435/241 D44HD/D60HD
    85 W350 360/727/241 D44HD/D60
    97 B3500 5.9MPFI/518 D60HD
    20 Pacifica Hybrid, 3.6 V6, EVT 1 speed trans.
    projects:
    85 Country Coach RV, 5.9 Cummins/TH475,GV od,US gear Exhaust brake,D70HD (4 wheel disk brakes, 10 lug 19.5 rims.

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #92 on: November 10, 2011, 08:54:07 pm »
    i know the 4x4 is not working because i took my rear drive shaft out, this is how i discovered my 4x4 not working, i was trying to determine if my rear drive shaft was causing a vibration so i took it out and was going to drive on the front to see if the same vibration occured, but i wasnt moving when hubs locked in and the transfer case in 4 hi. the directions i followed were backwards it said slide shift collar as far as you can to the passnger side and when i do that the shift collar is not over the top of the shaft coming thru the axle from drivers side, so i think i have it figured out now and will give it a tray in the morning, whats annoying me most is my moms boy friend saying you must have a brken spider gear or broken ring and pinion, i said i dont i was just in the front end with the cover off the other day nothing is broke nothing was in the oil, and he says well iot shouldnt matter if that shift collar is over the top of both shafts one of thos shafts should spin when you lock the hubs and put it in gear, he said one of the shafts should be moving and it should be working, hes a retard who thinks he knows everything and is driving me nuts, he says well why isnt it moving when you have it in 4 hi and the hubs locked in he says it shouldnt matter one of those shafts should be spiining in that axle,.
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #93 on: November 11, 2011, 10:12:52 am »
    Dodge made some changes to the CAD in 88, or 89, I wonder if they swapped the direction that the CAD moves to engage.

    I understand whole heartedly about your mom's boyfriend.I'd prefer dealing with someone that knows that they do not know anything, over someone like that, who knows enough to be stupid, but not enough to know they are stupid.

    You have the right idea, do not get worried whether it goes to the drivers side, or the pass, maybe that changed from the earlier models.  Just use your common sense, and you will be fine.

    Like I said before:

    Quote
    The end result that you need, is the color should cover both axle sections, and the fork should be stuck in the position that has the fork in the grove of the collar.
    77 W200, 360/727/NP203/D44HD/D60 (Wifes Toy)
    77 M887- 318/727/NP203 D44HD/D60
    78/86 Ramcharger.  360/727/NP203 D44/9&1/4
    85/89/90 D150/W250 5.9TBI/435/241 D44HD/D60HD
    85 W350 360/727/241 D44HD/D60
    97 B3500 5.9MPFI/518 D60HD
    20 Pacifica Hybrid, 3.6 V6, EVT 1 speed trans.
    projects:
    85 Country Coach RV, 5.9 Cummins/TH475,GV od,US gear Exhaust brake,D70HD (4 wheel disk brakes, 10 lug 19.5 rims.

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #94 on: November 11, 2011, 04:56:16 pm »
    thanks im going to go out there here in a few minutes and seeing what i can do, know that i know what shift collar looks like when being locked i know where the shift collar on mine needs to be i just dont know where the fork is going to need to be, i wonder if you could slide that shift collar over both shafts and tac weld around it on both sides ensureing it will never come off that way it wouldnt matter where the shift fork is.
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #95 on: November 11, 2011, 04:59:39 pm »
    i have a different dana 44 that came out of a 74 truck that im going to put under mine, i would be doing that right now but the axle is 150 miles away in another town and state from where i am now, but ill be going there around christmas to live be moving there and once i get moved up there this cad axle is going bye bye.
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #96 on: November 11, 2011, 07:40:31 pm »
    i got the cad locked  ;D, my shift collar did need to be slid to to the passenger side just not as far to the passenger side as possible cause then ther shift collar wasnt over top of the shaft coming from drivers side, anyways slipped the shift collar over the two shafts and slid my shift fork over twords the plug in and put c clip in same groove and put shift fork over top of the shift collar and bolted it back down, then i did what burban said locked my hubs and tried to spin my fron drive shaft and couldnt so i knew it was locked in  8) very happy now, thank you ver much burban for your all your help and sharing knowledge with me, hopefully i can help you out some day.
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline SuperBurban

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #97 on: November 11, 2011, 07:51:43 pm »
    No problem, glad it worked out.

    Welcome to this site.  When you get a chance, go to your profile settings, and put in some of the information about you and your truck, That will make it easier to give recommendations in the future.
    77 W200, 360/727/NP203/D44HD/D60 (Wifes Toy)
    77 M887- 318/727/NP203 D44HD/D60
    78/86 Ramcharger.  360/727/NP203 D44/9&1/4
    85/89/90 D150/W250 5.9TBI/435/241 D44HD/D60HD
    85 W350 360/727/241 D44HD/D60
    97 B3500 5.9MPFI/518 D60HD
    20 Pacifica Hybrid, 3.6 V6, EVT 1 speed trans.
    projects:
    85 Country Coach RV, 5.9 Cummins/TH475,GV od,US gear Exhaust brake,D70HD (4 wheel disk brakes, 10 lug 19.5 rims.

    Offline pjc360

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #98 on: November 12, 2011, 02:07:55 am »
    ok will do, thanks again  :)
    1991 power ram 150

    Offline Comrade General

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    Re: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ
    « Reply #99 on: June 16, 2012, 02:38:54 am »
    the links in the first post arent working
    -1992 W150 318, a518, ORD crossover steering, d60/70, 4.10s, 4in lift, 35s (SOLD)
    -1992 W150 318, NV4500, stock (sold)
    -1992 Ramcharger 318, lifted, stock (sold)
    -1993 W250 Cummins, getrag, compounds, d80 rear, 3.54s, 35s, 6in lift, crossover, and more
    -1993 Ramcharger CS, 360mag, nv4500, 4in @ 33s

     

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