Author Topic: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?  (Read 1151 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline adam83

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 15
  • RCC Rules!
xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
« on: April 30, 2020, 02:25:06 pm »
My 76rc is all stock with full time 4x4, stock torque converter, and gear ration although I don't know what my gear ratio is. It's the low compression 400 2 barrel single exhaust automatic

Im swaping over to a 4 barrel 650cfm Edelbrock 1906 avs2, Edelbrock 2186 performer intake, 452 heads with valve job and bowl blend, dual exhaust with stock manifolds (will switch to headers eventually.) And 31" tires

I called comp cams for a recommendation, he said xe250h for best off idle response, or the xe256h for better mid range

What do you guys think? The ramcharger will have 33" tires, and be used in street, highway and off-road driving.

Xe250h specs:
Advertised duration 250int./260exh.
 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 206 int./212 exh.
 Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.432 int./0.444 exh.
Lsa 110


Xe256h specs:
Advertised duration 256int./268exh.
 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212 int./218 exh.
 Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.447 int./0.455 exh.
Lsa 110
« Last Edit: April 30, 2020, 02:29:14 pm by adam83 »

RamChargerCentral

  • Advertisement
  • ***

    Offline 86w250

    • Jr. Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 757
    • Gender: Male
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #1 on: April 30, 2020, 03:40:10 pm »
    I have a stock motor home 400 with low compression in my w250 and i pull about 6500 hundred pounds behind it.  It doesnt do horrible off the line but you can feel the power start above 2000 rpms or more "go figure a 400 makes power when revved".  I would hate to see what it would do with a cam that isnt more for the bottom end unless racing.  I would go with the best off the line, the 400 is a short stroke so it will still make decent power higher up.  I have a stock converter on it also.
    « Last Edit: April 30, 2020, 03:43:56 pm by 86w250 »
    Oh Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    1986 Dodge w250 727 400 4bbl
    1945 Willys MB
    1967 Dodge Charger
    2013 Dodge Dart SE slow!!!!

    Offline stftruck

    • RCC Rookie
    • **
    • Posts: 274
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #2 on: April 30, 2020, 09:49:15 pm »
    The small cam & NO headers!

    Offline Mojack

    • Full Member
    • ****
    • Posts: 1852
    • Gender: Male
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #3 on: May 1, 2020, 08:51:40 pm »
    You have the same scenario I'm working toward. RV 440, 4:10 gears, 32" tires (33" eventually). So I wanted as much low end torque as I could get. I picked a Lunati cam, it was the only one that stated that it started working from idle. It will be a while before I get it on the road, but that's the plan.
    1979 Trailduster 0 cubic inches, awaiting a 440, a crusty work in progress.

    Offline adam83

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 15
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #4 on: May 3, 2020, 03:20:43 pm »
    That can is very similar to the 250 comp. I am leaning towards off idle with the weight of this rig, the lower gear ratio and the fact it'll probably be full of people alot of the time it's used. I  was pretty decided on it until I visited my machine shop Friday.

    My original 452 heads are probably gonna need  valve job, guides, and possibly new seats and of course new springs to match my cam. The shop I go to is very competent and does the job right but it does cost a lot. I could be up to 6 to 8 hours getting all that done and the minor porting work. Being that the total cost could range from 600 to 1100 depending on the work, it may be more cost effective to just buy a new or used set of 440 Source Stealth heads. The springs they have would work with my cam too.

    If I go with the  Stealth heads, would the xe250h still be the better choice?

    Offline 86w250

    • Jr. Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 757
    • Gender: Male
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #5 on: May 4, 2020, 05:57:51 am »
    I would still go with the smaller cam because of intended usage and the fact you have a low compression engine and using the factory stall converter.  I would make sure the intake is a dual plane too not single plane.  If you need to have the heads worked on, they can make them flow better which would give you more HP in the higher rpm range.  Also the bigger the cam, you might need a vacuum cannister so the brakes work well. 
    Oh Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    1986 Dodge w250 727 400 4bbl
    1945 Willys MB
    1967 Dodge Charger
    2013 Dodge Dart SE slow!!!!

    Offline OldCycloneGuy

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 77
    • Gender: Male
      • What I do when I'm not in the garage
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #6 on: May 4, 2020, 09:54:45 am »
    I recommend this cam over the Comp Xtreme, it is what I have, I have had both, in my experience, a better choice:

    Lunati SKU 10230700
    Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Very strong torque and increased HP for 383-440 cubic inch motors. Compatible with stock type fuel injection. Works great for pleasure/ski boats, and mild towing applications.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 253/258; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 208/213; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.454; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: idle-5000; Includes: Cam Only

    Note - Lunati and Comp are owned by the same group.  For whatever reason, Lunati has upgraded their lobe profiles since Comp came out with the Xtreme.  The Xtreme uses the same lobe shape for Chrysler and Chevy, so it throws away the benefit of the larger Mopar .904 lifter.

    I have not run a Hughes cam, they look good on paper, not knocking them, good as far as I know.

    Just saying, as an experienced user, I think the Lunati Voodoo is a better (and quieter in terms of lifter noise) flat-tappet hydraulic than a Comp Xtreme.
    I would rather have had many cars and have only one wife than have had many wives and had only one car.

    Offline Mojack

    • Full Member
    • ****
    • Posts: 1852
    • Gender: Male
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #7 on: May 4, 2020, 02:53:31 pm »
    I recommend this cam over the Comp Xtreme, it is what I have, I have had both, in my experience, a better choice:

    Lunati SKU 10230700
    Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Very strong torque and increased HP for 383-440 cubic inch motors. Compatible with stock type fuel injection. Works great for pleasure/ski boats, and mild towing applications.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 253/258; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 208/213; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.454; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: idle-5000; Includes: Cam Only

    Note - Lunati and Comp are owned by the same group.  For whatever reason, Lunati has upgraded their lobe profiles since Comp came out with the Xtreme.  The Xtreme uses the same lobe shape for Chrysler and Chevy, so it throws away the benefit of the larger Mopar .904 lifter.

    I have not run a Hughes cam, they look good on paper, not knocking them, good as far as I know.

    Just saying, as an experienced user, I think the Lunati Voodoo is a better (and quieter in terms of lifter noise) flat-tappet hydraulic than a Comp Xtreme.

    Glad to hear that, It looked good on paper but I haven't heard anyone's experience with it. I bought it, so I have to use  it, good or not. ;)
    1979 Trailduster 0 cubic inches, awaiting a 440, a crusty work in progress.

    Offline OldCycloneGuy

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 77
    • Gender: Male
      • What I do when I'm not in the garage
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #8 on: May 5, 2020, 08:34:59 am »
    Hope it goes well and you have a pleasant install and break-in.  I think you'll be happy!
    I would rather have had many cars and have only one wife than have had many wives and had only one car.

    Offline adam83

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 15
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #9 on: May 6, 2020, 10:59:36 pm »
    I looked into it. I'm gonna go with the lunati cam and lifter kit.

    Hopefully I won't have to change push rods but who knows.

    Its my first actual can break in, I'm doing it myself so hopefully I can get it right


    Offline Evenprime

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 62
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #10 on: May 9, 2020, 09:13:44 pm »

     The Xtreme uses the same lobe shape for Chrysler and Chevy, so it throws away the benefit of the larger Mopar .904 lifter.

    I have not run a Hughes cam, they look good on paper, not knocking them, good as far as I know.

    Just saying, as an experienced user, I think the Lunati Voodoo is a better (and quieter in terms of lifter noise) flat-tappet hydraulic than a Comp Xtreme.

    Interesting point regarding the lobe shape for both mopar and chevy. Had I known this, I would have probably not gone with the Xtreme series in mine. But I have a small block LA360 in my truck 76 W100. Do you know if it is the same for this engine as well?

    From my experience with what I built for my truck, I should have went with the smaller cam. I have only had my truck above 3,300rpm once. With my auto 727 and 321/323 gear ratio,  I can never get it higher unless Im mashing on it but even then Im already speeding before it hits a decent rpm.

    In retrospect, I should have rebuilt a 400BB and swapped bell housings.

    Next time :)

    But yeah - I say smaller cam as well.
    76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 6ft box 318ci "near show room condition"

    76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 8ft box 400ci "needs love but solid'

    Offline KurtfromLaQuinta

    • Mopar Nut
    • ******
    • Posts: 6180
    • Gender: Male
    • My lugnuts take more torque than Honda's put out.
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #11 on: May 9, 2020, 11:44:35 pm »
    I have a stock motor home 400 with low compression in my w250 and i pull about 6500 hundred pounds behind it.  It doesnt do horrible off the line but you can feel the power start above 2000 rpms or more "go figure a 400 makes power when revved".  I would hate to see what it would do with a cam that isnt more for the bottom end unless racing.  I would go with the best off the line, the 400 is a short stroke so it will still make decent power higher up.  I have a stock converter on it also.
    That's the low compression causing that.
    Low compression is your enemy. Unless you want to save all that money on cheap gas. ;)
    It's not worth the savings to have a dog/ smog motor.
    500 c.i.- Scat Crank, Scat Rods, Indy Aluminum heads, Comp XR280HR Cam, Six-Pack, Milodon 8 qt. Pan, 727  (reverse-manual, low band apply, 5 clutch disc, 3 qt. xtra. pan), N.P. 205, Ford 9" rear axle (4:11, 31 spline axles, Detroit Locker, converted/ disc brakes). Dana 44 front (converted/ disc, 4:10, Tru-Trac limited slip). Hydra Boost Brake Booster, Gear Vendors OD. 600+ ft. lbs. of torque

    Offline KurtfromLaQuinta

    • Mopar Nut
    • ******
    • Posts: 6180
    • Gender: Male
    • My lugnuts take more torque than Honda's put out.
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #12 on: May 9, 2020, 11:45:34 pm »
    You have the same scenario I'm working toward. RV 440, 4:10 gears, 32" tires (33" eventually). So I wanted as much low end torque as I could get. I picked a Lunati cam, it was the only one that stated that it started working from idle. It will be a while before I get it on the road, but that's the plan.
    Get your compression up for low end torque.
    500 c.i.- Scat Crank, Scat Rods, Indy Aluminum heads, Comp XR280HR Cam, Six-Pack, Milodon 8 qt. Pan, 727  (reverse-manual, low band apply, 5 clutch disc, 3 qt. xtra. pan), N.P. 205, Ford 9" rear axle (4:11, 31 spline axles, Detroit Locker, converted/ disc brakes). Dana 44 front (converted/ disc, 4:10, Tru-Trac limited slip). Hydra Boost Brake Booster, Gear Vendors OD. 600+ ft. lbs. of torque

    Offline KurtfromLaQuinta

    • Mopar Nut
    • ******
    • Posts: 6180
    • Gender: Male
    • My lugnuts take more torque than Honda's put out.
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #13 on: May 9, 2020, 11:51:34 pm »
    I recommend this cam over the Comp Xtreme, it is what I have, I have had both, in my experience, a better choice:

    Lunati SKU 10230700
    Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Very strong torque and increased HP for 383-440 cubic inch motors. Compatible with stock type fuel injection. Works great for pleasure/ski boats, and mild towing applications.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 253/258; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 208/213; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .454/.454; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: idle-5000; Includes: Cam Only

    Note - Lunati and Comp are owned by the same group.  For whatever reason, Lunati has upgraded their lobe profiles since Comp came out with the Xtreme.  The Xtreme uses the same lobe shape for Chrysler and Chevy, so it throws away the benefit of the larger Mopar .904 lifter.

    I have not run a Hughes cam, they look good on paper, not knocking them, good as far as I know.

    Just saying, as an experienced user, I think the Lunati Voodoo is a better (and quieter in terms of lifter noise) flat-tappet hydraulic than a Comp Xtreme.
    You guys need to be careful with the flat tappet cams.
    I don't know if any of you have heard about the Zinc additive removal from all the over the counter oils recently... well it's been a few years now. Your taking a big risk with the old flat tappet tech getting those new cams damaged beyond repair. Especially if your going with anything performance related over pure stock.
    Research or learn the hard way... been there...
    500 c.i.- Scat Crank, Scat Rods, Indy Aluminum heads, Comp XR280HR Cam, Six-Pack, Milodon 8 qt. Pan, 727  (reverse-manual, low band apply, 5 clutch disc, 3 qt. xtra. pan), N.P. 205, Ford 9" rear axle (4:11, 31 spline axles, Detroit Locker, converted/ disc brakes). Dana 44 front (converted/ disc, 4:10, Tru-Trac limited slip). Hydra Boost Brake Booster, Gear Vendors OD. 600+ ft. lbs. of torque

    Offline OldCycloneGuy

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 77
    • Gender: Male
      • What I do when I'm not in the garage
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #14 on: May 10, 2020, 03:40:54 pm »
    Agreed on the zinc in the oil.  It is a bit more work to find an acceptable oil, the last time I was at O'Reilly the only off-the-shelf high zinc is a 20w-50 racing oil. But the old-fashioned high zinc oil can still be found, you just have to look for it.

    I think getting a cam that is "too big", or I should say, too long of a duration so it moves the torque band higher, is a pretty common mistake.  I think everyone who gets to the point in hot-rodding where they start swapping cams goes too big at least once.  I've done it!  A big cam sounds cool, runs lousy, or runs lousy at least until about 4,500 RPM anyway.

    True on compression.  70's Mopars had low compression from the factory, adding a bigger cam lowers cylinder pressure, and kills low-end torque.  Bigger cams require higher compression to be efficient.

    Here is another FYI - Big cams don't like low-stall torque converters, especially with stock 1970's compression ratios.  Higher stall converters in a 4WD truck slip a lot and get very hot, which can smoke the bushing in the front pump.  Higher stall converters also kill about 2 or 3 mpg in a truck.  In a case like a mud-racer, a high-stall converter is fine as it doesn't go far enough to get hot and who cares about gas mileage.  In a 4WD street truck a high stall torque converter means lousy mileage and a transmission that might only last a few thousand miles. So a cam no bigger than what will work with a stock converter is about all you should have if you want to run it regularly on the street. 

    If you have an automatic transmission and an engine with a slightly bigger cam than stock, it needs to rev a little higher to make power.  The 70's Loadflite 727's shifted at way to low an RPM.  Here are the two things you need to fix that:
    http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/5000-RPM-High-Performance-Governor-Kit__22204-50.aspx
     
    http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/1-2-Shift-Valve-Spring-Kit__AASVS-1.aspx

    I did the governor kit and the 1-2 shift valve on a 360 TrailDuster a few years back, and it really woke it up.  It didn't 2nd gear start any more, dropped back into first below about 10 MPH so it didn't take off from a roll in 2nd, and held the shifts to 5,000 RPM.  Stock it went 2-3 at about 4,200 which just wasn't enough.  Huge difference for passing, huge difference off the line and at low speed.

    I would rather have had many cars and have only one wife than have had many wives and had only one car.

    Offline KurtfromLaQuinta

    • Mopar Nut
    • ******
    • Posts: 6180
    • Gender: Male
    • My lugnuts take more torque than Honda's put out.
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #15 on: May 10, 2020, 05:06:23 pm »
    Agreed on the zinc in the oil.  It is a bit more work to find an acceptable oil, the last time I was at O'Reilly the only off-the-shelf high zinc is a 20w-50 racing oil. But the old-fashioned high zinc oil can still be found, you just have to look for it.

    I think getting a cam that is "too big", or I should say, too long of a duration so it moves the torque band higher, is a pretty common mistake.  I think everyone who gets to the point in hot-rodding where they start swapping cams goes too big at least once.  I've done it!  A big cam sounds cool, runs lousy, or runs lousy at least until about 4,500 RPM anyway.

    True on compression.  70's Mopars had low compression from the factory, adding a bigger cam lowers cylinder pressure, and kills low-end torque.  Bigger cams require higher compression to be efficient.

    Here is another FYI - Big cams don't like low-stall torque converters, especially with stock 1970's compression ratios.  Higher stall converters in a 4WD truck slip a lot and get very hot, which can smoke the bushing in the front pump.  Higher stall converters also kill about 2 or 3 mpg in a truck.  In a case like a mud-racer, a high-stall converter is fine as it doesn't go far enough to get hot and who cares about gas mileage.  In a 4WD street truck a high stall torque converter means lousy mileage and a transmission that might only last a few thousand miles. So a cam no bigger than what will work with a stock converter is about all you should have if you want to run it regularly on the street. 

    If you have an automatic transmission and an engine with a slightly bigger cam than stock, it needs to rev a little higher to make power.  The 70's Loadflite 727's shifted at way to low an RPM.  Here are the two things you need to fix that:
    http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/5000-RPM-High-Performance-Governor-Kit__22204-50.aspx
     
    http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/1-2-Shift-Valve-Spring-Kit__AASVS-1.aspx

    I did the governor kit and the 1-2 shift valve on a 360 TrailDuster a few years back, and it really woke it up.  It didn't 2nd gear start any more, dropped back into first below about 10 MPH so it didn't take off from a roll in 2nd, and held the shifts to 5,000 RPM.  Stock it went 2-3 at about 4,200 which just wasn't enough.  Huge difference for passing, huge difference off the line and at low speed.
    All good points.
    A & A Transmission are the go to guys for Torqueflites.
    I wouldn't even consider a flat tappet hydraulic cam again.
    Save your money for a hydraulic roller cam. 
    « Last Edit: May 10, 2020, 05:08:38 pm by KurtfromLaQuinta »
    500 c.i.- Scat Crank, Scat Rods, Indy Aluminum heads, Comp XR280HR Cam, Six-Pack, Milodon 8 qt. Pan, 727  (reverse-manual, low band apply, 5 clutch disc, 3 qt. xtra. pan), N.P. 205, Ford 9" rear axle (4:11, 31 spline axles, Detroit Locker, converted/ disc brakes). Dana 44 front (converted/ disc, 4:10, Tru-Trac limited slip). Hydra Boost Brake Booster, Gear Vendors OD. 600+ ft. lbs. of torque

    Offline Evenprime

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 62
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #16 on: May 14, 2020, 08:16:35 pm »
    I went flat tappet due to cost constraints but next time I wouldnt.
    I thought the zinc oil was easy to find and I didn't mind paying the slightly more for it but I actually had a hard time finding it last time.
    Im sure its okay now, but maybe in 5 years time it'll be really tough to get?

    When you say 'Higher stall converters in a 4WD truck slip a lot and get very hot, which can smoke the bushing in the front pump.  Higher stall converters also kill about 2 or 3 mpg in a truck.'

    What value of high are we talking here? I put a B&M Tork Master Torque Converters 10417 2,400 rpm Stall in my truck when I had the LA360 rebuilt (Note for anyone thinking of doing the same  - this converter requires a different flexplate for a 360 as its externally balanced)

     
    Is that too high of a stall? My MPG are atrocious but Im suspecting it'll get better when I get the carb tuned but never thought about it being a torque converter issue.
    76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 6ft box 318ci "near show room condition"

    76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 8ft box 400ci "needs love but solid'

    Offline OldCycloneGuy

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 77
    • Gender: Male
      • What I do when I'm not in the garage
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #17 on: May 15, 2020, 10:09:44 am »
    In my opinion, anything over 1,800 stall is higher than ideal.  However, like everything else, it depends. 

    If you drive along (let's say about 55 or 60) with the engine around 2,000 RPM or so and push the gas enough to get more power but not kick down into second, you should see the RPM increase smoothly with the speed.  If it jumps a few hundred RPM then climbs gradually that's showing you slip in the converter.

    It takes a lot to push a 4WD with the aerodynamics of a barn door down the road.  As a result, a torque converter will slip a lot more in a Ramcharger than it will in a car like Dart or a Coronet going the same speed.  So what can be a problem for a Ramcharger isn't much of an issue in a car.

    A torque converter below it's stall speed can provide the equivalent of gear reduction, which is why for quick acceleration drag racers benefit from a high-stall converter.

    However, just like with a standard clutch, slipping creates heat.  A high stall converter is kind of like "riding the clutch". 

    I drove my Trailduster from Kansas City to The Grand Tetons and back with the higher stall converter in it.  The heat melted the bronze bushing between the converter and the front pump.  Because the converter makes so much heat a bigger cooler won't resolve the issue - the fluid gets so hot inside the converter it wipes out the bushing before it gets to the cooler. 

    It wasn't un-drivable, by the way, I just had to add a quart of ATF every 500 miles or so until I got home.

    Once I got home I put a low-stall converter in it and replaced the bushings and seals.  Problem solved, and went from 8 mpg to 11 mpg.

    Realistically, if you have an occasional use truck you only drive on short hops and you don't tow anything with it, just leave it alone if you have a 2,400 stall.  It will use a bit more fuel, but it can have a bit more acceleration than a low-stall.

    If you plan to tow anything on the highway or drive hundreds of miles through the mountains, well, that torque converter is going to be an issue you'll need to address.

    I would rather have had many cars and have only one wife than have had many wives and had only one car.

    Offline petethekiller

    • Newbie
    • *
    • Posts: 13
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #18 on: May 20, 2020, 10:47:48 am »
    Contact Hughes Engines for a cam.... They specialize in Mopar and have cams that build cylinder pressure for the low compression big block motors.   I took a low mileage RV 440 motor bought a Hughes Whiplash cam and a set of Edelbrock E-Street heads.  The motor is a fricking BEAST.  I dont even have $2200 in the motor and I could not be happier.  Sounds like a draq car but runs the stock converter and makes power at 1500 rpm.  Perfect for these trucks.

    Online Mopar572

    • Jr. Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 635
    • Gender: Male
    • RCC Rules!
    Re: xe250h or xe256h for 4 barrel swap on 400?
    « Reply #19 on: May 20, 2020, 12:05:38 pm »
    You guys need to be careful with the flat tappet cams.
    I don't know if any of you have heard about the Zinc additive removal from all the over the counter oils recently... well it's been a few years now. Your taking a big risk with the old flat tappet tech getting those new cams damaged beyond repair. Especially if your going with anything performance related over pure stock.
    Research or learn the hard way... been there...

    Rotella still has 1200ppm which i have found to be fine after break in, just be sure to always run it and definitely still run break in oil for the initial break in.
    1985 W250, 318, 435, 208, 44/60
    1991 W350, 360, 435, 205, 60/70
    1991 D250, 360, 518, 60