Author Topic: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc  (Read 830 times)

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Offline Evenprime

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76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
« on: June 11, 2020, 05:13:31 pm »
1976 W100
LA360 mated to a 727 (Orig was a 318)

I'm not technically inclined so please help me better understand what I am looking at in these pictures.

As mentioned in a previous post, the previous owner must have put a mile marker kit in my NP203 but somethings still do not make sense.

Question 1)
LL - nothing happens just rattles of metal clinking
L  - nothing happens just rattles of metal clinking
N  - neutral,
H  - 2WD High
HL - 4WD High Locked

* When in 2WD high, it bangs when I put it into reverse, but if its in 4WD high Locked, it goes into reverse extremely smoothly.

* Truck does not have locking hubs

See pictures of linkages from np203 shifter, there is a wire missing I think?
I suspect my linkages are out of alignment but not sure what to do to get it into low, or low lock.

How does this truck go into 4 lock? I do not see any electronics to do so? No locking hubs? How did it originally do it?

Looking at the suspension, is there anything that specifically looks worrisome? I took it out over the weekend for its first real off-roading (still nothing too harsh) but on a dirt road, not gravel, and it was fine but the whole truck shook like it was going to fall apart. Do these trucks literally feel like the back window is going to explode all the time, is that how the technology was back then?

I wouldn't expect it to be nice and comfortable like todays trucks, but it felt about twice as worse as my 2008 GMC 3/4 work truck and I thought that thing was rigid.


Id like to learn more, so if you can see anything that looks interesting, please comment. Appreciate it all

Can you tell me what I have up front and in the rear? I hear Dana 44's are common up front and 9" in the back?

I changed the rear diff fluid and noticed it was 3.23 gears. Going to change the front soon.

Also, going to change the NP203 fluid, and I hear 10W30 is a must? Would that apply up here in Canada as well? Im in Vancouver so it never gets too cold but still



 
« Last Edit: June 11, 2020, 05:16:52 pm by Evenprime »
76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 6ft box 318ci "near show room condition"

76 Dodge Power Wagon W100 8ft box 400ci "needs love but solid'

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    Offline mopar65pa

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    Re: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
    « Reply #1 on: June 11, 2020, 05:58:38 pm »
    Ok here goes.

    It is an AWD. All 4 wheels have power at all times. BUT when it's not locked in the first wheel that spins gets the power. When it is locked in same goes, all 4 wheels get power BUT it locks the front and back into one and you get one of the two out of the front and back.

    NOW, if you have a LS or locked diff front or back you get 2 in the front or 2 in the back.

    There have been many arguments on here about this system but I still think it is the best.

    The front turns all the time, no lock outs, no CAD system that lets the front free from the transfer case.

    The clunking and sounds are the fact that it's not locked in to one of the positions. Time to get under it and adjust the linkage.

    DO NOT lock it in and drive it on pavement.

    The transfer case has a differential in it. Front axle gears are lower than the rear axle gears and will blow out the diff in the t-case.

    EVERYTHING is manual. No electronics at all. Just a light switch for the 4x4.

    Good luck and love that baby! They are the best! No hubs, just a lever!



    « Last Edit: June 12, 2020, 11:08:42 am by mopar65pa »
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    Offline 712edf

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    Re: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
    « Reply #2 on: June 11, 2020, 06:57:29 pm »
    Chock the wheels. crawl under the truck & have someone shift the t-case back & forth from Lo-Loc all the way to Hi-Loc. Do this with the engine NOT running & the transmission in neutral.

    Hopefully once you see how the linkage works you can figure out which rod is the range rod & which is the lock rod, and adjust accordingly.

    Hopefully there is no internal damage or nobody monkeyed it up with those part time kits.

    Yes 10W-30 oil.

    Bucky
    1975 W600   318  NP540  T223Rockwell tcase, Rockwell front & rear axles, 6.8 ratio

    Offline RWG75

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    Re: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
    « Reply #3 on: June 12, 2020, 05:57:48 am »
    The most advanced bit of electronics available when new was the radio. This is a thing many of us around here dig about these things. The missing wire in the picture of the xfer case shifter is for the LOC light. There is a lamp on the dash under the radio that is supposed to come on when in HI-LOC or LO-LOC.

    If the xfer case was converted to part time correctly there should be a tag on it and there should be front lock out hubs. If not, ya can't put it in 4wd because there's no way to take it out of 4wd. Yes, 10w30. The drain plug is the outside bottom bolt that attaches the case to the trans. The fill plug is a pipe plug looking thing high on the back side. Case holds 3-4 quarts and an old time kerosene hand pump is a great way to fill it. When it starts trickling out of the fill hole, it's full.

    There are two rods between the shifter and the xfer that operate two levers on the xfer. One is loc / open, the other is HI / LO. The one with the switch is the LOC lever. I generally adjust them with all four wheels off the ground to cut down on the odds of the thing rolling away and with the trans in neutral because it shifts easier that way. Both ends of the rods are attached with cotter pins, pick an end and disconnect both of them. Reach up and operate the levers on the xfer case by hand and you should feel the detents. Put both levers in the middle position. The shifter should move freely, clean and oil as needed, couldn't hurt to have somebody shift it while you lay under and verify both levers move. Put the xfer shifter in neutral, put a punch through the alignment hole in the side of the shifter. Loosen the set screw on both shift rods, adjust their length. It doesn't take much of a misadjustment to have them out of wack and not get the mode ya want. A final sanity check of the adjustment is to put the shifter in to either loc position, rotate a front or rear tire by hand and verify one tire on the other end spins.

    Old / tired / blown shocks will make these thing ride like a dump truck. If the PO swapped it from 318 to 360 and didn't change the torque converter that [common mistake] can give you a nasty vibration. Short explaination is that 360s use a converter with weights tacked to the face to balance the engine, 318s don't. A vibration that kicks in at about the same speed every time is usually a drive shaft u-joint. A certain amount of clunk or bang when shifting D-R is normal for a Chrysler. It's mostly slop between ring and pinion.

    The under side pics look pretty much like standard issue 1/2 ton D44 9.25 except for the added steering stabilizer and the overwhelming lack of rust.
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    Offline RXT

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    Re: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
    « Reply #4 on: June 12, 2020, 06:40:28 pm »
    As mentioned in a previous post, the previous owner must have put a mile marker kit in my NP203 but somethings still do not make sense.

    You need to confirm that it's been converted, otherwise you still have the full time system

    Quote
    Question 1)
    LL - nothing happens just rattles of metal clinking
    L  - nothing happens just rattles of metal clinking
    N  - neutral,
    H  - 2WD High
    HL - 4WD High Locked

    Maybe the linkages are out of adjustment, maybe bent or worn out

    Quote
    * When in 2WD high, it bangs when I put it into reverse, but if its in 4WD high Locked, it goes into reverse extremely smoothly.

    Sounds like the typical 9.25" backlash bang. The 9.25 was known to bang when you shifted into reverse. The backlash tends to get loose and become sloppy. When you're in 4wd the bang is reduced because the front axle helps to absorb the slop.

    Quote
    * Truck does not have locking hubs

    The Mile marker kit didn't always come with the locking hubs like the Ford and Chevy versions did. That's because the Dodge version was usually more expensive if you wanted the lock out hubs and lots of people just left the full time hubs. To install lock out hubs, you need to swap out the entire knuckle

    Quote
    How does this truck go into 4 lock? I do not see any electronics to do so? No locking hubs? How did it originally do it?

    There are no electronics. The front axle was always engaged, just like any AWD system. The only thing that changed when you shifted the t-case was either the gear ratio (High range / Low range or Lock / Unlock)

    Quote
    Looking at the suspension, is there anything that specifically looks worrisome? I took it out over the weekend for its first real off-roading (still nothing too harsh) but on a dirt road, not gravel, and it was fine but the whole truck shook like it was going to fall apart. Do these trucks literally feel like the back window is going to explode all the time, is that how the technology was back then?

    Do not engage 4wd (hi lock or low lock) on hard surfaces. The system requires a bit of tire slip to function otherise the truck could shake. This is called Bind, and it could be catastrophic to drivetrain parts

    Ed
    « Last Edit: June 12, 2020, 09:11:52 pm by RXT »
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    Offline Ruderunner

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    Re: 76 W100 - trying to understand np203, suspension etc
    « Reply #5 on: June 14, 2020, 06:31:31 am »
    Im wondering if the rattle and clank noises are possibly from a blown front axle.

    While under the truck checking linkage,  try turning the driveshafts,  with wheels on the ground,  neither should turn much,  even with the case in neutral.