You are a big help thanks for your replies!

Yes, i know what the power heat valve does but i just knew about the older bi-metall ones without vacuum ports.

I just found the correct routing plan for my setup in the service manual... honestly i understand the emission stuff partly...but not enough.
I see that the emission system is still needed If you are bound to Emission laws. I am not but i am willing to spend money in a new pump if someone tells me it will effect my driveability and mpg negatively if i get rid of all that. If i can gain some positive effects in Exchange of the smog stuff i will spend my time in deleting it.
I have a hooker header in my garage which will be installed next year followed by a dual exhaust setup. The headers wont have ports for the pump.

Yes, that is the vacuum solenoids, they are controlled by box es on the drivers side hood hinge.

That other port at the heat valve, can be abugger to block. I ended up making a metal plug with a slight taper, and hammered it in place.

I forgot about the vacuum controlled heat valve, that you want to keep. it helps warm up the engine faster (you probably knew that, but posting it for others reading this). I forget what controls it, but I could not get mine to work, and tied it into the heated choke wiring. hopefully someone can provide some more help for you. (Mine was an 85, and has been gone due to rust well over ten years now.)

Thank you for the hints for plugging the manifold connections!

Crawled under the car again and tried to follow the pump hoses. One of the two big hoses from the pump splits and connects to both manifolds on each side. The second bigger hose went unter the engine and ends in the power heat valve right before the exhaust pipe on the passenger side.
The small hose which i marked previously splits at a T segment. One end connects to the same power heat valve as well. The other end connects to a distributor block (?) at the passenger side (See picture attached)

Made a shifter from hickory axe handle.

Where does the front hose on that go?

IIRC, that is a switch, and switches where the air gets pumped to, either at the exhaust manifolds, or down by the catalytic converter. Which means you will need to plug two spots. For the back of the manifolds, be careful, it is not unheard of for the bolt to snap, then you have more problems. If they do come pout, I just cut the ends off, and weld the hole shut, and then bolt them back up. If you think the bolt may break, you can cut the tubing towards the rear of the engine, make a plug, and weld it in the tube. The other hose, if it goes to the cat, or even towards the bottom of an exhaust manifold, may be a bit more challenging.

The vacuum line, I would find a convenient location, and plug it. I like to go all the way back to the carb, or intake, and cap the tube.

The EGR valve on yours I think went to a solenoid, which was controlled by one of those little boxes on the drivers side of the engine compartment, which only opened the EGR at above a set engine speed. I would just cap the Vacuume tube also, and not worry about it again.