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Vehicle Help / Re: '77 W200 Carburetor
« Last post by KG5JXO on Today at 08:25:45 pm »
the pump well is smooth, couldn't figure the problem out there. pump never seemed to tear in the same place twice. still debating if the problem is ethanol though at least three pumps were advertising that they were e85 safe. might try one rated for methanol if the one going in the new to me carb doesn't last. jets were the same as some for an edelbrock carb. I stuck some much smaller ones in it two maybe three sizes smaller than it had. helped on the highway some. For what its worth Both check balls were the same size when I rebuilt it. I'll answer any questions on it I can but it's probably worth messaging me so the thread isn't to hijacked.
Vehicle Help / Re: '77 W200 Carburetor
« Last post by 712edf on Today at 08:23:10 pm »
I rebuilt the BBD on my 75 W600 last fall. 30 years ago I could have done it in an hour. This time it took a couple of weeks. Just too busy with life & no longer familiar (never was with BBD) with carburetors.

It runs ok but starves for gas in 4th & 5th gear. I think that maybe due to the el cheapo $20 chinese fuel pump I just put on a few mths ago.

I'm now dealing with my parent's health issues, so even less time than before.

Ethanol sucks.

Good to see you back.

The AC idea is interesting. I have done some research. If you look at what hybrids use, many are upwards of 120 volts 3 phase AC, with an interesting controller. The 12 volt DC compressors I have found, are 60 to 100 amps. I have a Chrysler Pacifica hybrid, it is nice to be able to cool the car down while it is still plugged into the house, or keep the AC running while I sit inside waiting on the wife. Your idea is not impossible, but will likely be more then you want to spend. I'll be watching to see what you do.

A couple life times ago, I helped a friend rebuild a super turbine 300, they are interesting. I forgot all about that. It took two times, thee first time he got a bad torque convertor, so we had to drop the trans, and try again. It was fun, since neither of us had more then basic tools at the time. Ohh, to be young and dumb again.

Vehicle Help / Best way to lower 2WD stock suspension
« Last post by AZRC on Today at 07:16:58 pm »
 Looking to lower a 1992 RC 2WD maybe 2-3 inches and was wondering what kits or tricks are best for this.  Going to use most of the stock suspension front and rear.

Front - I have seen some lower control arms that allow the coil springs to drop down into a cup.

Rear - I have heard about putting the axle on top of the leaf springs as well but not sure how well that works.
Realize you need to move the axle back or shorten driveshaft to do this mod.

I am willing to purchase new springs and brackets if needed.

Anyone with experience please give me your advice.  Thank you in advance.
The difference is the section right behind the doors. On the 70's, the frame raises right behind the doors, the 80's it stays low until behind the front of the rear seat.

To use a 70's body on an 80's frame, you need a 3" body lift block at the body mount behind the doors (third going front to back).

To use the 80's body on a 70's frame, you need to use 3" body lift blocks on all but the mounts right behind the doors. And gearshift, and any other extensions that go along with a normal body lift.

Easy peasy, I have done both over the years.

Thank you for replying and giving the good news (basically 70's body to 80's frame).  Found a 1992 RC from Mexico (here in the states) that can't be registered easily so it will be the donor frame and suspension.
Technical Discussion / Re: Radiant heat protection
« Last post by RXT on Today at 06:50:53 pm »
Aluminum is a fantastic radiant barrier. It's the best material to reflect infrared radiation. To be really effective, it has to be spaced from the source of heat and the component it protects. Even a sheet of aluminum foil can reflect up to 90% of the heat. Of course you would want to use something more substantial than foil.

Vehicle Help / Re: '77 W200 Carburetor
« Last post by SuperBurban on Today at 06:48:17 pm »
Thats good info. The accelerator pump could likely be fixed by burnishing or honing the pump well. The richness is likely too large of a jet. Have no idea if they kept the thread size when they copied it or not. I guess they may have figured rich is better then lean, but lean could easily be fixed by drilling the jet one size larger. Rich you would have to change the jets, or solder the existing one up, and drilling it a size smaller.

I will stop recommending them. When I get some extra cash, I will order one and see what it takes to polish the turd so to speak.

Vehicle Help / Re: '77 W200 Carburetor
« Last post by KG5JXO on Today at 06:19:53 pm »
I used one of the Chinese clones from amazon. functions OK but can't keep an accelerator pump in it. Currently have the fourth one in it and not working. Also had some issues with running way rich in the mid range. decided to go with an eBay bbd off a 76 after a rebuild kit instead of replacing another accelerator pump
Vehicle Help / Re: EGR Washer Orifice size for 1985 B250
« Last post by moparmaiden on Today at 06:10:24 pm »
What does "Twerty" mean?

twerty takin to you LOL , well the first sentence was , the rest was for the OP
Technical Discussion / Re: Radiant heat protection
« Last post by Mad Max on Today at 05:46:26 pm »

The next thing I would consider, is a spaced shield with a thermal layer attached. same exact thought too!  I have a ping to DEI for their recommendations...
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