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Project Practical: 92 RC

32K views 301 replies 16 participants last post by  Chilly 
#1 ·
My version of a rescue pet except I don't get any "virtue signaling" credits from millennials.  Purchased from a 101st Airborne fellow at Ft Campbell who was about to PCS to Germany.  He put a lot of money into it in past few years, and some things I would prefer he not have done (lift and 33" arent my preference).  But price was right, and best of all its a California truck all its life until he brought it to middle TN four years ago.  Being from PA where vehicles melt away beneath you, I am a sucker for a rust free body.

 

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#2 ·
Part of being practical is spending money for max benefit.  Out of the gate that means making sure it is safe, and that no harm comes to it from some undiscovered neglect.

While checking it out I noticed scars on underside right exactly at the front of the rear driveshaft.  That explains 500 mi on supposedly-rebuilt transfer case.  Tugging on the shaft I detected a loose strap on one u-joint cap.  This thing was about to pull a repeat.  I fixed that this weekend with a u-joint strap kit from NAPA.  In the photo you can see the battle damage, and also the conspicuously absent exhaust which was cut just forward of the damage.  I'll bet he needed to clean out his drawers after that one. And I'm not 100% confident that I dont have a rear end issue as a result.  Havent opened it up yet. 

 

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#3 ·
Because I intended to use thread locker, I hosed out bolt holed with brake cleaner, let dry, then twisted in a 30-cal bronze bore brush to clean out threads.  Sprayed again, let dry, and used medium strength thread locker.

The old straps seem to have been stretched, no longer holding one cap tightly.  The joint is not sloppy otherwise and appears to be a recent replacement (likely 500 mi ago when xfer case was changed).  I do sense driveline vibrations but I think I know why, and perhaps the reason why he dropped a driveshaft to begin with.But
 
#4 ·
Check this out: near zero pinion angle.  Previous post shows front u-joint, not a CV joint.  Not good.  Also visible is the lift block with angled bottom to intentionally tilt the pinion.  We have a situation where the front u-joint velocity does not match the rear u-joint velocity.  Probably hard on xfer case output bearing, rhe u-joints, and rear axle pinion bearing.


 

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#7 ·
Onto the engine.  Had a super cool K&N filter assembly with a not-so-cool unplugged port on the bottom.  So I put on the original filter assembly that came with the truck, and a new paper filter.  This engine would have to spin really fast before the difference in an air cleaner make a lick of difference.  It's a factory truck engine.  The K&N can go to a kid cooler than me.

 

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#8 ·
Wasnt sure about this engine, mind still not made up.  Guy thought it was a new crate engine.  Receipt from shop who installed it says rebuild.  Either way I did compression check on warm engine with throttle open and all plugs pulled.

1: 130
2: 135
3: 130
4: 116
5: 133
6: 116
7: 137
8: 130

Might have something going on with right bank between 4&6.  I'll watch coolant usage, which I dont smell or detect yet.  Removed plugs all looked terrific and even.  Oil looks good, too.  Probably put this on the watch list before pulling heads. 
 
#9 ·
I think I saw that truck listed on c.l. or somewhere in my searches.  Glad it made it to a good home.  Looks like you're doing all the right fixes.  I would probably replace the stacked lift blocks in the rear eventually.  Great find.  up here in the rust belt they're just do hard to find.
Eric
 
#10 ·
I would get rid of the blocks in the rear as Mttaff said with 4" springs. Nice find!
 
#11 ·
As near as this Dodge novice can tell the CAD system is complete but I get no locky-locky action.  Yes, engine was running and shifted into 4WD.  And you would be correct to question me.  These space age 1990 contraptions like CAD are super modern to me.

Rather than figure out how to fix it I'll just lock it and source some manual hubs.

It didnt fail for lack of exterior lubrication...
 

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#12 ·
I think I understand how some people get crossed up on which way to move the fork when doing a CAD lock.  My sliding collar is disconnected when slid fully inboard and fully outboard.  "Locked" is somewhere in the middle.  And because I didnt pay attention I now have to do some research.  Splines are purty and clean so this should be trivial (says every prideful jerk before disaster).

The little plastic shoes look like new.  I guess not functioning makes parts last longer. 



 

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#16 ·
mttaff said:
I think I saw that truck listed on c.l. or somewhere in my searches. Glad it made it to a good home. Looks like you're doing all the right fixes. I would probably replace the stacked lift blocks in the rear eventually. Great find. up here in the rust belt they're just do hard to find.
Eric
I found it on Facebook Marketplace. Was actually looking at 1990's Yukons, Jeep XJ. Never was a Dodge guy for some reason. But I'm very much liking this truck so far!

I will put rear springs on the list. The flat stockers probably ride better but I'd hate to spit out a block when I inevitably play with it. AND I should probably do it before changing driveshaft to a CV joint. For 4" lift tilting the pinion is not necessary for such a long driveshaft (other project is a 1973 Jeep CJ5). So maybe my driveshaft angle problem goes away when I put on springs! Thanks for the recommendation. Very practical!
 
#17 ·
Chilly said:
I will put rear springs on the list. The flat stockers probably ride better but I'd hate to spit out a block when I inevitably play with it. AND I should probably do it before changing driveshaft to a CV joint. For 4" lift tilting the pinion is not necessary for such a long driveshaft (other project is a 1973 Jeep CJ5). So maybe my driveshaft angle problem goes away when I put on springs! Thanks for the recommendation. Very practical!
I put in D250 leafs and the W250's 6" block. Ujoint angles are correct, but really, really close to bind because the rear driveshaft is short, and the small 7260 joints/ends don't angulate much.
https://ramchargercentral.com/projects/red-w250-ramcharger/

I'm looking toward copying what Ford did on the Bronco - lift the pinion and run a rear CV. Ford used a ~10 degree wedge shim. A rear shackle flip should do about the same.
 
#18 ·
Put some Seafoam in crankcase and warmed it up for a while before changing the oil.  Have a ticking lifter around #8.  I like seafoam but I'll only add it just prior to a change and let it idle until hot.  After oil change the tick has lessened.  Put in full synthetic 5W-30.

Keeping an eye on coolant for bubbling in tank.  Havent seen any yet but lid was nearly broken off.  I dig little free projects. 

 

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#21 ·
Chilly said:
I wonder if the ticking lifter and lower cylinder pressure on two cylinders on right bank are related?

Anyhow, I have Warn Premiums on order.
A lifter tick is a lifter tick. It has nothing to do with the compression. Hydrolic lifters, Run some more seafoam through it and clean out the gunk.
 
#22 ·
warn cheapies : ONE year ,  warn premiums : here is salt country , 2 years . Super Winch brand , many years . rear spring blocks : dodge used quite a few different height ones , depending on the model and spring set up . I have seen many with a little taller than the "straight" ones in your 2 block set up , 1 block is factory , and they are parallel .. no taper . yeah I'd pull those ....  :eek: any spring shop can bend you some new u bolts and supply long nuts/hardened washers . the 3/4 and 1 tons used a thicker u bolt and corresponding saddle ( bigger holes) , but may be overkill for a "stock"street truck  trans pan drain , correct not stock  :)  4X4 : the damd dash lights ( 4X4) often lies .... no light BUT its "IN"  I suppose it's "fixable" ... if one's a mind to ... 
 
#23 ·
mopar65pa said:
A lifter tick is a lifter tick. It has nothing to do with the compression. Hydrolic lifters, Run some more seafoam through it and clean out the gunk.
Was thinking a tick means not pumped up, which could cause lazy valve action. Just a wild guess, hoping for self healing low pressure on two cylinders.
 
#26 ·
I'm needing to undo something expensive here.  PO put on 33x12.5-15 Nitto Grapplers on aluminum rims with quite a bit of offset.  Sometimes the outer edge of front tires snags the front bottom corner of front fender.  I can imagine this tearing the crap out of my fender when a lug grabs the fender while backing up with the tire stuffed up in there.

I've always preferred tall skinny tires.  I'm leaning toward plain steelies with BFG 33x10.50.  Should fit better, and I got some pretty decent miles out of BFG ATs years ago.  These big lugged Nittos arent going to last on pavement anyhow.  Might as well sell them while theyre nearly new. 
 
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