Well I finally got me a crew cab   

Its an old Burlington Northern Railroad truck. In their Green. Cascade Green? Reminds me of Sassy Grass green. I think I will have to keep it this color. First time the paint was the first thing decided. LOL

Its gonna be a slow project but figured I would start a thread since Crew Cabs do have a following.

Any old time rail fans that know what the paint code would be or how to get it matched?

I will also ask my stupid questions here as well. 

Plans, convert to 4x4 with plans on using a 88-98 Ford front end  for the driver side drop, to make romm for a way down the line of a cummins swap. Bed is kinda trashed so either find another or flat bed it. Not sure yet. Looking at about a 4" lift overall.

When is crossover steering needed? Over 4". Can it be used with under a 4" lift? Since the truck is already 2wd the steering box is properly located already. Would I have to goto a 5" to make the crossover steering work? Given the length of the truck, thinking a divorced xfer case if its worth it. Mainly to move it back to make both driveshafts the same length. Havent measured yet so not sure if my idea would make for a stupidly long front driveshaft? Non divorced xfer cases stronger? Strength an durability is more important. So looking at a 2nd gen diesel xfer case. nv241D iirc. I dont think those ever came divorced. hmmm might have answered my own question.

Looking at a 35" tire but given the size of the truck maybe 37". Size meaning length. Plan on copying "Judge" and lengthening the front fender opening. Keep the pics up Eric! Gonna need to refer to them.    Gotta research to see what the consesus is to fit 37" tires.

Its an original 4bbl truck. Might swap to Magnum with Megasquirt but no need yet. Seems to run fine. Was overheated but no odd engine noises. The back of the exhaust manifold has a hole in it. Should be where the air injection should go, maybe a plug blew out? I have a set of headers. She smokes bad from a valve cover leak. Guy said I can fix some of the things at his place. No fluids seem to be mixed either. So hopefully no blown head gasket.

What size gas tanks were available in Crews?

Looks to be a D60 under there. Didnt check the rear for a tag. Owner says its geared low too. Anything steeper then 4.10 available back then?

They wrecked the driver side door and the latches wont change over. I remember reading there was a latch change but can not remember when and what was changed? 

Ok some pics I took.







I like the Green!!

4,56 was as tall as you could get

Why not just put a dodge d60 under it and leave it passenger drop?  Find a W250/350 donor truck and it would be pretty straight forward

Exhaust clearance on a diesel. Thinking down the road. Also fords are more plentiful up here. Already found front and rear for 1200.  Can't get them yet.  Even found a 3/4 diesel ford for about 2200. Dodges, not so much.

For the X over, Anything over 2" lift & it should fit. It will NOT work on a stock height!!
Jim


Is that the Burlington Vt RR you got it from?

yes the striker and latch did change, I think in 85 when the thinner doors were introduced, the tubes in the back of the manifold are the AIR ports, and would work in conjunction with the rest of the smog equipment, on some there is a plug on the front side of the manifold, same plug should work, a block off plate could also be made (sometimes purchased if they are still on the shelf) below the rear hole is a bolt hole, that bolt hole can be used to hold a block off plate in place.

 just remember, if you do headers, you will need to plug the AIR holes in the heads, as most headers do not have provisions for these.

That's strange about the gearing, I did see a cab/chassis truck that was being parted out with 4.88's it's hard to tell.

For the X over, Anything over 2" lift & it should fit. It will NOT work on a stock height!!
Jim


Is that the Burlington Vt RR you got it from?

No its from the Northwest. Washington, Oregon area. I just moved up here in 2010 so I dont know the history of the RR.

I will probably PM you questions again, since I am converting to 4wd, and so far your pieces seem to make it the easiest way.

So far so reading on the RR from Wikipedia Burlington RR

I'd say the V-10 probably needs it's computer at least. I'm not 100% on the interchangeability between the V-10 and Cummins. Btw, I plan on doing a Ford HP60 front in mine. Already have my T-case. It is a divorced unit. But then again, NOTHING in my build is gonna just bolt together either.... 

Well, was first thinking about a 4 link with panhard, but won't be doing any wheeling that serious. Decided I will probably have a friend fab up some brackets that mount on the spring pads with ubolts just like the leafs originally did. Then, I will build a radius arm that has an adjustment on the top axle links for caster correction. The slight binding characteristics usually mean better road manners. Will go with barrel style bushings for a smooth ride. Dunno if I will choose coils or coilovers. Coils are cheaper, but require more room than coilovers. Coilovers are easy to mess with spring rate and get a cushier ride. Leafs are doable, I would just have to fab the spring mounts appropriately, but am kinda wanting to go radius arm. Reading lots of info on it right now. My head hurts 

Yep. That is life. Been on pirate as well reading, reading, reading about coilovers. 

Driver side exh manifold has a threaded hole in the back without a plug making a bad exhaust leak. Feels like it is the same size as the plug in the front. Wanted to pull the front plug out and see if it fits in the back. Only thing the plug is a square recess that my 3/8 and 1/4 drive rachets wont fit. I think its 5/16. Any one know where to get square bit drives?


Anyone have a recommendation for a gear box? Ones to stay away from?

That hole may be something to do with the emissions air pump.

It probably had some form of emissions control hooked to that area on it at one time if the motor is original. My 85 350 with the rochester carb'd 360 did. I can't remember if it had an air pump or if it was just hooked to a charcoal canister. 

the holes in the back of the exhaust manifold is part of the AIR system, hooked into the smog pump and egr circuit, you can make a block off plate for it if you really need to, below the hole you should find a bolt hole, make the plate to clog the AIR port and bolt it in place as the original system would have done.

Nothing there. Just a hole. Previous owner had it plugged but it came out.

Sorry its been bugging and I cant just leave it alone, but if it is anything like this pic, then it should be fairly easy... Depending on working space.

Just find anything that will thread over or in and be done.

You might just have to give in and pull the manifold to be able to access it. Obviously you will need a new gasket. As for the flange, its easiest to cut the 2 bolts and just use new ones. So it should only cost about 12 bucks or so and some time to pull, plug and replace. But it may save a ton of time trying to dick with it in such a restricted place.

Just my thoughts.

Might be the easiest route.

That's strange about the gearing, I did see a cab/chassis truck that was being parted out with 4.88's it's hard to tell.

I've seen a few 70s W300s with 4.88s...

So the engine cross member bolts in?



I cant picture a 4x4 cross member. What is different between them? Could the 2wd one be used or do I need to swap them out?

You can see the bolts in this pic, the one I mean to post. lol The one of the front of the tank was just to show how clean it is and how dam long.



According to the FSM it says iirc 30 or 34gal. The RC is the biggest the fsm listed at 35gal. When I get back there I can get more pics of the tank if needed.

Cashmere is the color name? Hmmm took the wife to go see it. Initially we had the idea of 2nd gen seats in it but she is kinda digging the front bench. Was told it didn't have ac. Was surprised when I opened the hood. Was dreading trying to swap ac in. At least the equipment is there.

Steering shaft and new rag joint should be here Thursday.

Wow gotta see what the color is then. I like the green color just havent dug out the fender tag, or actually the cowl tag. 


Some progress, it is insured and licensed. Got the pitman arm installed by brace my feet and pull tight.  Gotta buy a socket to use my torque wrench. Also need to take the steering shaft back off to paint it and to drill a little hole for the set screw on the shaft.

Took it for a spin, about 10 miles worth. Rides like my 01 CTD 2wd. Still gotta fix the driver door. Figure the police might frown an a bungie cord holding it shut. Good enough to get home however. Not to fond of the brakes. IT srops but pedal doesnt feel right. It could be normal for the truck. Just need to check the brakes before I accept the pedal feel. Tranny shifts fine, engine has typical 1985 power.  All in all it drives fine except still no power steering. Had it at first but it went away as I drove it. Fluid is full. Figure I need to raise the front off the ground and try to bleed the system. I am guessing the system is air locked somehow. Oh there is a squeak in the column. Also the steering doesnt return to center. I am going to hope it is due to the lack of power steering. The column not sure it will go on my parts list of things to swap out.

Been talking to the wife and plans were a V10 swap. Well she likes the simplicity of the crew. Carb, basic electronic ignition, no power windows nor locks. So she said I should go 12V.  Who am I to argue. We did agree the 89 RC needs the V10. WAY down the road though. LOL

On the 12V how much of an improvement is then within the 2nd gen trucks. Thinking of trying to get 97-98ish 12V basically a P-pump version. I know 24 valves, cause that is what my other truck is. 12 valves are another world to me. Or should I just stick with a 91-93 12V? (Intercooled version)
Also a lot of conversions I see involve firewall work. Is it required for a swap? Or is that just to use the later style harness? I want the later style column so I will probably end up doing that. I ask because if I can get a 2nd gen 12V, I wont exactly be able to graft in a firewall, well maybe.  Dont have a 2nd gen diesel to see what all is there. I would like the sensors so I can run a dash tach. If I got a 2nd gen I would more then likely swap in the cluster as well.

I will post pix later, rocker panels are crunched. Good time for integrated sliders

Someone tell me what to do. I like the big tire low lift look along with the stretched wheel weel look. Like "Judge" and Elwenil's white RC.
However being a LWD crew, the rockers will get ground friendly quickly. Thinking of running 37's but would 6" be enough? Was originally thinking 4" but like I said being a long wheel base and some areas out here, they would hit quickly.

Truck overall is for a roadtrip camping rig. Wife and I been wanting to do an alaska camping trip. Found out Hackster is building a crew for the same thing. haha. So kinda following his lead. However thinking a utility bed for the back of mine as well as keeping it a long bed.

So would 4" be worth while or would 6" overall be better for slightly improved breakover clearance. Now that I think about it, 6" would look better on a truck that long. So now would 37" fit with no rubbing at 6"?

Over thing I am trying to preplan is I want to keep the tension style rear shackles for their load carrying ability. Thinking chevy 56" rears 6" lift with dropped hangers. Might build a same frame section under the main frame to drop the hangers in order to keep the tension shackle style.

Ugh, sorry I am rambling again. 

load carrying capacity of tension hangers? I am not sure how that works out as they are stamped steel and do cause a bit of a harsher ride. I would look into jungles hanger set, he makes them to bolt on, with the chevy springs, and at least one guy on here does sled pulling with his rig, commented that it had better ride quality with the factory style springs, and had no troubles hauling heavy. would maybe consider an alcan spring set with military style eyes if you are looking for heavy load capacity.

For 37's and the purpose you are building for I would probably go 6" of lift. That's what I have on my crew with 35's and I had 4" with 35's on my rc before and you're going to have to trim a bunch to do anything but mallcrawl with 4".

Just some pics of me rocking the crew. Planning my plan of attack on what to do first. Figured as well to just look for a donor truck. I can get the engine and axle separately however I want the newer steering column so a donor wod be the best way.

Looks good shiny. Also a cameo appearance of my 01 and the rc is in the back ground. Can't see it but the rc is a bit dirty from this weekend.


Doesn't fit in a parking spot at work. Lol


Dirty and stuck RC: