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Waterproofing 85 Auto RC

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  s ǝoɾ 
#1 ·
I've got a 1985 RC 318 Auto.  This past spring I ended up draining something that looks like chocolate milk out of my transmission and I fried my alternator.  I don't want that to happen again, so I need help on how to waterproof my rig for mud and water.  Looking at things such as transmission, alternator, starter, and engine oil.  Any tips and tricks that work or don't would be appreciated.  Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the site!!  ;D

You are in the right place to get answers to your questions but not from me!  ::)

Some one more experienced and knowledgable than I will be along shortly.  8)


Bill




 
#3 ·
{wave} Welcome to the KNUTTHOUSE!

For the engine compartment you need to fully close it off with some sort of rubber. I used rubber roofing and stretched it from the frame to the inner fenders.

As far as your trans there is a breather hole on the top inside the "bellhousing" you will need to tap that put a threaded nipple in it and run a vent tube to a higher location.
 
#4 ·
I hope you don't have a leaky trans. cooler, which will also cause milky trans. fluid. ( only if the cooler is part of the radiator.)

How does the coolant itself look?
 
#5 ·
The Hoss said:
I hope you don't have a leaky trans. cooler, which will also cause milky trans. fluid. ( only if the cooler is part of the radiator.)

How does the coolant itself look?
That could be also.
 
#6 ·
mopar65pa said:
{wave} Welcome to the KNUTTHOUSE!

As far as your trans there is a breather hole on the top inside the "bellhousing" you will need to tap that put a threaded nipple in it and run a vent tube to a higher location.
you can either thread it in like he said above or braze it in and then drill as hole right above it in the tranny for the rubber line
 
#7 ·
tyhoppy, you bring up a very interesting point.

I do not know how one would "waterproof" an alternator. They do exist, I just do not know what exactly makes them water proof.

Then again, a mopar alternator has minimal electronics inside the case. The windings themselves are "waterproofed" with a clear lacquer to prevent shorting. The regulator is mounted remotely, so that is a plus. It seems to me, the only areas of concern, would be the diode bridge, the connections, and the brushes. Not much you can do for the brushes. I do suppose the 3 leads from windings to the bridge could be covered in some sort of silicone, although not standard rtv, since rtv may corrode connections.

Protecting the regulator is the easy part.

It is possible to make gaskets/silicone to protect the starter motor from water intrusion. This includes the solenoid.

It is also very feasible to use an external remote mount solenoid, so it may be mounted higher up away from water. This also prevents the starter cable from being live at all times, which is the way stock system is. (even when switch is off, the cable still has full battery power all the way down to starter)

An electric fan is a HUGE improvement over stock for this.
 
#8 ·
No, it wasn't a leaky trans cooler, it's been fine since I flushed the trans, I think I just got in a little too deep.  The only real problems I have had so far were the alternator and the trans. 

It was winter time when I got the mud/water in the trans and when I took the pan off the trans there was a layer of frozen muddy water on the bottom of the pan.  I had to wait for it to get warmer out to start it because my starter had water frozen in it, after it got warmer out it started right up.

What should I use to seal my electrical connections, and distributor?  Regular silicone?  How high up on the trans is the breather now?  I really don't want to take pull the trans just to put a breather on it, any other thing I can do for that?
 
#10 ·
tyhoppy said:
How high up on the trans is the breather now? I really don't want to take pull the trans just to put a breather on it, any other thing I can do for that?
The trans breather is inside the bell housing on the top about 4" back from the mounting flange. Sorry to say YES you have to pull the trans to get to it. :-\
 
#11 ·
for starters on the tranny make sure you have the covers installed / theres the starter shim cover and the lower torque convertor cover / you can silicone around all the edges
 
#13 ·
So I burn up my second alternator, this one didn't last very long.  I tried the spray silicone. Got into some water/mud that I thought was more shallow then that, turns out the water was up to the seat.  Stupid engine died so I had to sit in the water til I got it started.  One it started I walked right out.  Everytime I even think about going through some water the thing dies.  I need some help with how to get this thing to quit doing that.  New plug wires and silicone around distributor cap?

Also, I'm thinking of fitting a closed alternator instead of the stock one that looks like its only surrounded by a cage.  Any ideas on what alternator to use?  I'm thinking maybe an 80s chrysler new yorker.
 
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