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Tire's Lock-up when 4-wheel-drive is engaged

26K views 101 replies 14 participants last post by  SuperBurban 
#1 ·
I will start by saying i am a total noobie when it comes to working on cars/trucks, but I have been really enjoying myself while trying to learn.

1984 Ramcharger 318

My issue is: My truck has been sitting for 5-6 years, during that time the truck was regularly started, but rarely moved. I have recently started working on it and all has seemed well for how long it has sat until tonight! I went to put the truck into 4-wheel-high and noticed the front tires were locking up. They will roll a little then lock/drag then roll a little more. My uneducated guess is that either something in the hubs are seized or something is wrong with the transfer case. I have recently also started to notice it takes a bit more throttle then normal to get the truck moving even in 2-wheel drive... So I guess what my question is... What are the possibilities? and Where should i start?

--- On a side note, I will be signing up for the yearly "membership". I have a feeling I'm going to be needing a lot more help then just this :-D. Thank you in advance!
 
#2 ·
Does it only do it in 4WD?  A truck that sits a lot can sometimes get some sticky calipers and rusty front discs that can cause this problem but usually putting it in 4WD makes it go away rather than cause it.  Any grinding or difficulty shifting the transfer case?  I can't think of anything the transfer case that would lock only the front wheels since in 4WD they are tied together and it would make a hell of a racket trying to lock up one axle or the other.
 
#3 ·
Welcome to the knutthouse and you new addictions......... :p {wave}

This "hard to roll in 2wd" could be as simple as the calipers locked up, rusty. put a jack under on wheel and try to spin it.

As far as the spin not spin in 4x4 is the difference in the gearing between the front and the back.

3:23's in the rear and 3:21's in the front cause a little binding on hard roads. ;)
 
#4 ·
Welcome to the site...BTW, being a noobie is totally OK around these parts!  8)

Lots of things can create a "stiff" truck after it has been sitting for awhile...brake issues, tranny, driveshafts...so lets start simple and work our way up.  Have you changed out the fluid in the transfer case or done a fluid/filter change on the tranny?  How about the gear oil in the differentials?  Grease the driveshafts lately?  Fluid condition and the amount of time that has passed since last maintenance can offer a lot of clues.  

Beyond that, you might want to hunt down a jack and some stands.  I have a feeling you will soon be getting the run down on jacking the truck up to check for binding in the brakes, transfer case, etc.  ;)

EDIT:  Dammit Tony...you beat me to it, but you proved my point about the jacks!  ;D
 
#5 ·
atowinram said:
EDIT: Dammit Tony...you beat me to it, but you proved my point about the jacks! ;D
:p
 
#6 ·
Lots of replies in a short time... I think your right, I have found my new addiction :-D.

I appreciate all the replies. I honestly have not replaced or checked any fluids / filters for either the tranny or transfercase. This is an issue i mainly started noticing tonight aside from the sluggishness in 2-wheel. I'm glad to see it sounds like more a of a lubing issue then a binding issue... I will get the truck jacked up tomorrow hopefully and start with the basics. I will pick-up some fluids and a tranny filter on my way home from work. IF the calipers are rusted / stuck is it as simple as taking them apart and spraying some penetrating stuff on the calipers? Also i believe that the gear ratios are all stock... I am the 2nd owner but i don't believe the other guy changed anything.... are 3:23's and 3:21's stock gearing?
 
#7 ·
It could a rusty U-joint in the front drive shaft, the axle ratios in Dodge half ton trucks are off front to rear like your 3.23 front 3.21 rear, this is due to the front being a Dana axle and the rear is Dodge.
 
#8 ·
The 2 typical gears are 3:23's or 3:55's in a RC stock.  ;)
 
#9 ·
DO NOT spray any sort of lube or penetrating oil on your brakes.  Lubricating the brakes is a very bad idea if you think about it.  If the rust is bad enough that the rotors are pitted and/or is causing the wheel dragging issue, pull the rotors and have them turned or replaced if they are too thin to be turned.
 
#10 ·
Good deal I appriciate all of your input, I will get under the truck saturday if not tomorrow night if there is enough day light left. I will take a look at the u joints as well. Father-in-law says he has some grease for the differentials of those are dry / low. So looks like i have my work cut out for me... Chilton manual and ramchargercentral are going to be my new best friends im thinkin :) Thank again for the info and i will post back with what i find!

P.S. If anyone has computer issues feel free message me i'd be more then happy to return the helping hand.
 
#12 ·
roakes1991 said:
I do understand that spraying penetrating oil on the brakes themselves would be bad... but if i took the pads out... and what i assume to be called a cylinder of some sort that compresses the brakes is rusted would it be ok to spray it on there?
NO, it wouldn't help stuck calipers. ;D They get stuck from bad seals inside the caliper you will need to get new or rebuilt ones if they are stuck.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Brake-Caliper-Front-Cardone-Friction-Choice_5620074-P_1162_R|GRPBRHYAMS_676773771___
 
#13 ·
Man you guys are on the BALL. Thank you VERY much for keeping me from potentially making a big mistake haha and thats awesome i would of thought calipers to be more expensive... thank you for the link :-D

p.s. i have noticed that it takes a lot to get the truck to stop... i assumed it was due to the size of the truck and i was used to driving a little car... maybe something is wrong with the calipers... i know we have bled them and all seemed fine there... hmmmmmm ???
 
#14 ·
roakes1991 said:
p.s. i have noticed that it takes a lot to get the truck to stop... i assumed it was due to the size of the truck and i was used to driving a little car... maybe something is wrong with the calipers... i know we have bled them and all seemed fine there... hmmmmmm ???
You need to drive the thing, or clean up the rotors/drums and get the rust off of everything. ;) Once the pads/shoes get to hit "clean metal" it will stop better BUT not as quickly as a car.
 
#15 ·
The rotors aren't rusted at all and lately i've been taking it around the block just to get it moving which did seem to help temporarily on the slugishness... One thing that had me concerned is when going down the drown way which is fairly steep i couldn't come to a complete stop with my foot pushing all the way on the brakes... i just continued to roll slowly down the hill. The drums on the other hand i have not looked at, at all. I drive an old econoline van when im at work... by far bigger then the truck and that thing stops FAR better then my truck does.
 
#16 ·
roakes1991 said:
The rotors aren't rusted at all and lately i've been taking it around the block just to get it moving which did seem to help temporarily on the slugishness... One thing that had me concerned is when going down the drown way which is fairly steep i couldn't come to a complete stop with my foot pushing all the way on the brakes... i just continued to roll slowly down the hill. The drums on the other hand i have not looked at, at all. I drive an old econoline van when im at work... by far bigger then the truck and that thing stops FAR better then my truck does.
That could be a combo of many things then, rear brakes, too high an idle speed, rear brakes with fluid on them, bad pads, shoes, no vacuum to your booster, bad master cylinder, bad booster, rear brakes out of adjustment. {noclue}

You'll need to pull things apart and check them out to make sure. {yes}
 
#18 ·
roakes1991 said:
:eek: could be a vacume issue! I was thinking my EGR valve was bad because when i hook the vacume hose up to it, the engine runs VERY rough... so i have it unplugged atm... maybe im not geting any vacume... and thats the cause for a lot of my issues....
Your booster should be plugged right into the intake. ;)
 
#19 ·
ohhh... haha what i get for jumping to conclusions :-D i guess from here it's a matter of getting some work on the truck and getting some more information before we can really start pin-pointing where these issues are coming from. I appriciate all of the advice and i will repost as soon as i find out some more.
 
#20 ·
roakes1991 said:
ohhh... haha what i get for jumping to conclusions :-D i guess from here it's a matter of getting some work on the truck and getting some more information before we can really start pin-pointing where these issues are coming from. I appriciate all of the advice and i will repost as soon as i find out some more.
{cool}
 
#21 ·
mopar65pa said:
3:23's in the rear and 3:21's in the front cause a little binding on hard roads. ;)
The difference in tire wear will make more of a difference than than .02 of a rotation in the R&P, moreso, any vehicle movement with the steering wheel not perfect straigt forward will cause the most binding. Come on Tony, haven't you listened to all of the arguments over the years?
 
#22 ·
KThaxton said:
The difference in tire wear will make more of a difference than than .02 of a rotation in the R&P, moreso, any vehicle movement with the steering wheel not perfect straigt forward will cause the most binding. Come on Tony, haven't you listened to all of the arguments over the years?
OH so right away you want to go "there" ;D

My CTD gets "stuck" in 4x4 from time to time because of this in my driveway. {yes}
 
#23 ·
mopar65pa said:
My CTD gets "stuck" in 4x4 from time to time because of this in my driveway. {yes}
It's likely stuck in 4wd for the reasons I already mentioned, most notably, turning. Think about how small .02 of a rotation is. Again, your tires have more variation in them then that.
 
#24 ·
KThaxton said:
It's likely stuck in 4wd for the reasons I already mentioned, most notably, turning. Think about how small .02 of a rotation is. Again, your tires have more variation in them then that.
If we are going to factor the .02 into the equation then you would also have to factor the tread wear on tires front to rear and make sure the air pressure is exactly the same front to rear. Or we could just say its not enough to worry about and not worry about it which is where I stand.
 
#25 ·
Yes mine comes from turning.  ;D
I have to turn after I come down off the "hill of mud" when I get to the driveway.  :p
 
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