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Author Topic: timing set question  (Read 411 times)

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Offline JaMeS318

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timing set question
« on: June 6, 2013, 06:25:33 PM »
I just wanted to check and make sure I had this right before reinstalling every thing. I lined the old timing set up dot to dot.I pulled the number one plug and I'm on top dead center. What is throwing me off is I pulled the dis cap while on top dead center and isn't the rotor suppose to be pointing towards the front of the truck or pointing towards cylinder 1? Mine is pointing alnost towards the fire wall. Does this even matter? Or do I just line her dot to do and not check anything else?

Thanks

James
88 w150. ex tbi. 318, 340 purple cam, true duals,single chamber flowmasters, eddie intake,600cfm eddie carb,4 inch rough country lift,35 inch BFG Km2 M/t's,15x8.5 wheels,headers,mopar perf igntion, a/c deleted.CAD deleted. Borgeson steering shaft, hot rod black paint.
2012 mazdaspeed3 full bolt ons 21psi :)
07 chevy trailblazer
87 944. 3.0 dohc motor swap, big brakes,
03 honda cbr 600rr

Offline Elwenil

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #1 on: June 6, 2013, 06:45:53 PM »
You have to be on TDC on the compression stroke, meaning the piston is coming up and both valves on the #1 are closed.  You are probably on the exhaust stroke which is about 180 out.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

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Online The Hoss

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #2 on: June 6, 2013, 06:50:20 PM »
 {agree}
 
 Sounds exactly correct to me!
Name: Corey

1979 RamCharger       360/727------Rusted Away
2002 Caravan  3.8L
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Offline JaMeS318

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #3 on: June 6, 2013, 07:04:20 PM »
So just to clarify I probably need to turn the motor over a few more times and the rotor should point to the front and the dots should Line up. I installed the one I'm pulling off like ten years ago and I'm a little rusty at remembering all this stuff.
88 w150. ex tbi. 318, 340 purple cam, true duals,single chamber flowmasters, eddie intake,600cfm eddie carb,4 inch rough country lift,35 inch BFG Km2 M/t's,15x8.5 wheels,headers,mopar perf igntion, a/c deleted.CAD deleted. Borgeson steering shaft, hot rod black paint.
2012 mazdaspeed3 full bolt ons 21psi :)
07 chevy trailblazer
87 944. 3.0 dohc motor swap, big brakes,
03 honda cbr 600rr

Offline Elwenil

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #4 on: June 7, 2013, 03:36:41 AM »
If you have the plug out, you can feel the rush of air out the hole as it comes up on the compression stroke.  There will always be a little air flowing around in there when rotating the engine, but with both valves closed it's a very noticeable difference.  Naturally if you have the intake or valve cover off you can just watch the valvetrain also, but it's a bit different with it all buttoned up.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

Auribus Tenere Lupum

Offline JaMeS318

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #5 on: June 7, 2013, 08:02:30 AM »
Thanks for the help so far. The reason that I pulled this all apart is to check the health of tthe chain because I've got a major drivabilty issue that I made a separate post about. Now....this morning I turned the motor over by hand and stuck my thumb over the number one hole I felt air push my thumb up, but I look at the rotor button and it is not pointing at number one. This is withthe old timing set still installed.... so the truck was running like this. My question is can I not line up the old timing set dot to dot pull the chain and gears off and install the new ones and be in time? And not even look at the position of the rotor? I know this is a case of me making things more complicated than they really are. Thanks for the help.
88 w150. ex tbi. 318, 340 purple cam, true duals,single chamber flowmasters, eddie intake,600cfm eddie carb,4 inch rough country lift,35 inch BFG Km2 M/t's,15x8.5 wheels,headers,mopar perf igntion, a/c deleted.CAD deleted. Borgeson steering shaft, hot rod black paint.
2012 mazdaspeed3 full bolt ons 21psi :)
07 chevy trailblazer
87 944. 3.0 dohc motor swap, big brakes,
03 honda cbr 600rr

Offline Elwenil

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #6 on: June 7, 2013, 08:50:34 AM »
If you still have the cover off and can line the dots up, you should be on TDC on the compression stroke.  The timing set is 2:1 so with the dots lined up, crank on top, cam on bottom, it should be at TDC.  180 out would be both dots on top.  If the dots are lined up and the distributor rotor is pointing 180 out, the distributor was installed with the shaft 180 out.  You should be able to pop it up and rotate it around and reinstall it though if it was 180 out and someone got it running like that, they will have all the plugs wires moved around the cap also.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

Auribus Tenere Lupum

Offline JaMeS318

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #7 on: June 7, 2013, 09:33:54 AM »
Ok what is weird is that when I line the dots up dot to do with the dot on the crank gear pointing up and the dot on the cam gear pointing down the rotor button faces the firewall and points to driver side like towards the steering wheel. It should be facing to the front but pointed towards the drivers side head light. Im beginning to think there isnt even anything wrong with the timing set as I watched a video on you tube were a guy was changing the timing cover gasket and he checked his chain and mine was tighter looking than his was and he said his was good and tight. My truck all of the sudden started stumbling and cutting out while driving down the road and I have changed everything I can think to change. It will barely idle when cold, Warms up it idles decent you can drive it down the road and its fine till you get up to 45 mph at which point it makes a little stumble then cuts out completely and if you hold the gas down will jerk back and fourth and buck. Ive changed ignition module, cap, rotor, wires, ballast resistor ,coil, distributor and carb. It has made no change at all.
88 w150. ex tbi. 318, 340 purple cam, true duals,single chamber flowmasters, eddie intake,600cfm eddie carb,4 inch rough country lift,35 inch BFG Km2 M/t's,15x8.5 wheels,headers,mopar perf igntion, a/c deleted.CAD deleted. Borgeson steering shaft, hot rod black paint.
2012 mazdaspeed3 full bolt ons 21psi :)
07 chevy trailblazer
87 944. 3.0 dohc motor swap, big brakes,
03 honda cbr 600rr

Offline Elwenil

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #8 on: June 7, 2013, 09:38:59 AM »
If the distributor points off in a weird direction, the intermediate shaft was probably installed wrong.  On an '88 model the slot in the gear should point directly forward, inline with the camshaft like a big block at TDC.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

Auribus Tenere Lupum

Offline ToxicDoc

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Re: timing set question
« Reply #9 on: June 7, 2013, 10:06:29 AM »
Ok what is weird is that when I line the dots up dot to do with the dot on the crank gear pointing up and the dot on the cam gear pointing down the rotor button faces the firewall and points to driver side like towards the steering wheel. It should be facing to the front but pointed towards the drivers side head light. Im beginning to think there isnt even anything wrong with the timing set as I watched a video on you tube were a guy was changing the timing cover gasket and he checked his chain and mine was tighter looking than his was and he said his was good and tight. My truck all of the sudden started stumbling and cutting out while driving down the road and I have changed everything I can think to change. It will barely idle when cold, Warms up it idles decent you can drive it down the road and its fine till you get up to 45 mph at which point it makes a little stumble then cuts out completely and if you hold the gas down will jerk back and fourth and buck. Ive changed ignition module, cap, rotor, wires, ballast resistor ,coil, distributor and carb. It has made no change at all.

forget where it points now.  Just start fresh.  Line up the dots. Put the distributor in correctly. Then wire up in firing order. End of problem.
'85 W150 SB, 408 stroker, Magnum manifolds, Performer RPM, 670 Truck Avenger, HEI ignition, Auburn LSD 9.25 and '82 D44 (non-CAD) with 3.55/3.54,  NV4500/NP241