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Oil Pressure Switch Instal Question

9K views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  RPMRamFury 
#1 ·
Hi everyone. 

Before I ask my question, I just want to say thanks for having years and years of helpful material out here.  What an awesome resource.  Hopefully someday I'll know something of value and can begin contributing the the RCC Encyclopedia.

I am a big fan of the search feature and my question is because I am encountering something I did not see any mention of in all the posts about this part/issue.

I've been to Napa, Carquest, Checker and Autozone.  The OPSwitch in all cases is too big and will not fit.  The bell is too fat.  There is this protrusion on the block near where this switch is situated.  Since the new parts I've tried are about 1/8 inch fatter in diameter than the one I'm removing, it interferes with my ability to line it up and get the threads to bite and I don't want to force it for obvious reasons.  The diameter and threadpitch of the stud that threads into the port on the block are correct.  It is the diameter of the bell itself.

Has anyone else had this problem?  I have noticed that at all parts stores... including the dealer, there has been a parts number change for this unit. 

Again, I try to not ask questions because I figure they have been asked already and all I need to do is search.  Most of the time that works.  Any help would be appreciated.

The real issue is that I'm reading low to no oil pressure.  This is a new phenomenon.  I just replaced my valve cover gaskets to stop some leaks.  This started about 1 week after that job was completed.  I am still not sure if issue is with the switch, the connector/wire, the gauge or really something with the motor or oil pump.  Truck runs/sounds fine... but not driving it anymore until this is resolved.

Right now, I am just going through the steps to triage the problem.

- tested gauge using ground method as mentioned on this board - checked okay

- was just going to replace switch ... and thus my question above

- tomorrow - going to locate oil pressure test gauge and get real reading on pressure - be stupid not to at this point (940000 miles)

- I do feel the connector is kind of loose when fastened to the post on the switch... doesn't have that firm click I'm used to sensing when you push those sort of connectors on

- If the pressure test checks out okay then it has to be either the switch or the connector.  Before I hack into the wiring harness to replace the connector, I figured I would replace the switch 1st... but I'm having trouble finding one that fits... and thus my dilemma.

Thanks

Rick

 
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#2 ·
Personally I am a big fan of mechanical gauges, I feel that the give a more accurate reading than an electrical resistance style.  Make sure you are getting one for a gauge  or one for a dummy light or vice versa, could be your problem.
 
#3 ·
Go to a plumbing supply or lumber yard and get a 1 1/2 to 2 inch long pipe nipple and coupler. Take your sender with you to get the right thread size. Screw the nipple into the oil port, screw the couple on, and then screw the sending unit into the coupler. This will raise the sender up high enough to clear obstructions. 
 
#4 ·
Is there a part number stamped anywhere on the original sender?

What I show is...
5227914 which subbed to 4741351. This is a backwards sub as the part# begining with a "5" is generally associated with the 1990 year decade and the "4" is from the 1980 year decade.
I'm assuming the old one fits perfect and hasnt been modified by a previous owner?

Some one else will have to help me out on this possibility. Is this one of the engines that has 2 senders on it? One for the idiot light and one for the gauge?
 

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#5 ·
Thanks guys

Problem Solved!

Chump, the part removed must not have been OE because there are no part numbers to cross-reference and it was a different size than anything at the part stores.  The picture you provided threw me at 1st because of the location of the coil... but that tree with the switch and sender is exactly what I got.  I have a needle gague and an idiot light.

Beast87,  I too had thought about adding an elbow or an extension, but my issue is that I should not have to do this.  That just seems like a workaround that I should not have to do. 

Petey, I read all about the issues with the inaccuracy of the needle gauges.  I'm actually okay with that.  I want to keep my vehicle looking stock. 

- Ended up getting a mechanical test gauge... so now I now my engine and oil pump are healthy.

- Also used test lamp to test connector/gauge circuit - it blinked instead of produced steady glow and that kinda threw me, but...

- Also bought a sender from NAPA, spun the tree holding both the sender and switch (as shown in Chump's picture) just a tiny bit and that corrected my clearance problem.

Hooked everything up and wham... gague jumped right up to 2/3 initially and after warm-up down to just a touch below midpoint (needle virtually straight up, which is where I would hope it would sit).

I also took the time to really clean it up back there so I can check back in a couple days to make sure I have no leaks.  Unfortunately, that will them tell me my next project is the rear main seal.

Good thing there are plenty of write-ups on that already too.  Thanks again.
 
#7 ·
Thanks.

I few years ago I bought an 84 pickup... but it didn't take... sold it quickly.  That was when I 1st registered on this board.  Then last year I picked up this Ramcharger.  It is a keeper.  I just left it alone and drove it as is.  That is until recently where I have now had some time to address some of the issues with the vehicle and clean it up the way I want it. 

 
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