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No Power to Coil While Cranking / No Spark

11K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Connort17 
#1 ·
Ok guys. I need your help again. I have a 1977 B200 van with a brand new motor in it. We are trying to start it for the first time but it seems that we have to power to the coil while we are cranking on it. We replaced the ignition module and ignition switch with one out of the parts van and that didn't help. It will actually try to start if we let go of the key sometimes after cranking for a bit. Anybody have any thoughts?
Thanks
 
#2 ·
are you getting spark?  Test the coil resistance too.  Also, make SURE you have power to the coil + in both "run" (9volts) and "start" (12 volts) position.
 
#3 ·
ToxicDoc said:
are you getting spark? Test the coil resistance too. Also, make SURE you have power to the coil + in both "run" (9volts) and "start" (12 volts) position.
Doc, he said one key phrase "will try to start when we let go of the key"

I must presume this van has dual pickups and a start/run solenoid?
 
#4 ·
I'm not sure if it is a dual pickup but it definitely has a starter solenoid. We tried to run a constant 12v to the coil and that didn't work. Then we realized that it was on a switched ground so we ran a constant ground to it and that didn't work. I believe that we had power to the coil in that scenario but we still had no spark.
 
#6 ·
joe s said:
Doc, he said one key phrase "will try to start when we let go of the key"

I must presume this van has dual pickups and a start/run solenoid?
I caught it to, but I keep forgetting about that dual pickup that Mopar used.
 
#7 ·
joe s said:
Doc, he said one key phrase "will try to start when we let go of the key"

I must presume this van has dual pickups and a start/run solenoid?
ToxicDoc said:
I caught it to, but I keep forgetting about that dual pickup that Mopar used.
I agree, thats what it sounds like, but I did not think they used the dual pickup until the mid 80's. I've never seen it in a 70's truck.
 
#8 ·
fatpretzle said:
O and we also had a problem with the neutral safety switch. It would only crank if it was in neutral not park. Don't know if its related though...
Neutral safety switches, clutch switches, etc cut out the starter circuit, not the ignition. You should still get spark.

Double check for proper current to the coil, check coil resistance, check for actual spark.
 
#9 ·
Ok. What should I get for an ohm reading on the coil? My multimeter doesn't read current but I know that the coil is only getting about 2v during cranking and there is no spark from any of the wires until I stop cranking. Once I stop cranking it will spark once.
 
#10 ·
Primary resistance should be about 1 ohm or less. Secondary should be under 10K for certain, some sources say under 5K.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm

However, if you are only getting 2 volts (you measured it right?), then you have identified your problem. You need 12 volts. Trace that circuit wire. You have too much resistance in it. All contact connections need looking at and the wiring for fraying.
 
#11 ·
Ok. We have tested and checked this thing any way I can think of. We have replaced the balast resistor and ignition module. We even ran a hot wire straight to the coil. Nada. We still have about 9v at run but once we start cranking it just drops to 0V.  We are lost. It worked fine before we took the motor out and rebuilt it. Does the ignition switch control the power to the coil wile cranking?
 
#15 ·
I tested it many times in a bazillion different ways. I tested it with the leads on the positive and negative side of the coil. I tested it with the coil disconnected with the leads connected to the pos and neg wires that were disconnected from coil. I tested the pos wire on coil and neg wire on block and neg wire on coil and pos wire on battery. I tested the voltage being sent to the coil from the balast resistor and I checked the voltage at the negative lead on the voltage regulator and the battery.
 
#16 ·
I fought that dual pickup setup on my '86 R/C for quite a while, then finally switched to a Wells 4-pin GM distributor module:http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html
Wired it to the "run" pickup, tossed the ballast resistor and mounted an Accel 1 1/2 ohm coil on the fenderwell. A Ford TFI coil or a late model Mopar spool-type coil would work well also. Lotsa sparks, starts right now and doen't seem to be near as fussy about the choke adjustment as it used to be. Now I carry a spare ignition module in the glove box(where we normally carry spare ballast resistors) but it doesen't look like I'll ever need it.
 
#18 ·
I don't know if you ever found out your issue but i just had this issue with my 1982 d150 slant 6 and it was in the ignition control module connector one of the wires leading to the distributor was broken in the connector I was getting 12v to the coil during crank and 9 when not cranking but would only give a spark as I turned off the ignition i have extras of all parts distributor included so i knew it wasn't any of those parts I have two of these trucks other one would start with all those parts so if anybody else runs into this issue start at the icm connector if no fire and just a spark as you turn the key off
 
#20 ·
I don't know if you ever found out your issue but i just had this issue with my 1982 d150 slant 6 and it was in the ignition control module connector one of the wires leading to the distributor was broken in the connector I was getting 12v to the coil during crank and 9 when not cranking but would only give a spark as I turned off the ignition i have extras of all parts distributor included so i knew it wasn't any of those parts I have two of these trucks other one would start with all those parts so if anybody else runs into this issue start at the icm connector if no fire and just a spark as you turn the
I don't know if you ever found out your issue but i just had this issue with my 1982 d150 slant 6 and it was in the ignition control module connector one of the wires leading to the distributor was broken in the connector I was getting 12v to the coil during crank and 9 when not cranking but would only give a spark as I turned off the ignition i have extras of all parts distributor included so i knew it wasn't any of those parts I have two of these trucks other one would start with all those parts so if anybody else runs into this issue start at the icm connector if no fire and just a spark as you turn the key off
[/QUOTE
I’m having issues with my van and wondering if I could pick your brain. I’m only getting high 9 volts when cranking and 6 in run. Wants to fire when I release the key from start to off. Ram so many tests, I can’t figure it out
 
#19 ·
howdy / please refrain from posting in a post thats older than a year old , a post this OLD [ 14 years ] the members are either GONE or DEAD , the older posts are to be used as "reference" Only so you can start a NEW post about the same subject . thanks for your cooperation on this matter

also on a post this old click the users Name too see when they where here last to verify weather or not they will answer you [ gone or dead ]

also you have had to seen the WARNING at the bottom of the post telling you NOT to post but make a new one [ below ]


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