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Ignition Problem: No Spark

45K views 47 replies 10 participants last post by  impish 
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#1 ·
Ok so as you can guess no spark in spark plug (my truck is posted in my signature box), i replaced the coil, spark plugs, cap, rotor, high tension coil wire and all 8 spark plug wires, and when wipped out the volt meter and there is no power to the coil period (i had the ignition all the way to start, one lead on the postivie, and other on negative), we tested the ballas resister and there is about 9 volts (going in and out) when igntion was on but then the igintion was in the start postition it dropped to about 8 volts. i have an assumption that it is the eletronic igniotin control box on the fender.

Please Help Me

Any suggestions???
 
#28 ·
you should have battery voltage at the red arrows with key on.....

 
#33 ·
The starter solenoid and starter relay should be within 10ths of a volt of the battery.

Moving one lead to the positive post, and other to starter relay or starter while turning the key should give a reading of only decimals, such as .300, maybe less.

Have you bypassed your amp gauge yet? (weak spot, failure prone)
 
#34 ·
look for voltage drop from battery to ignition switch.... then voltage on wire( j10-16re) coming from ignition switch

double check your grounds (body ground, engine ground, engine to body ground)
 
#36 ·
Keep watching this over and over and over until it makes sense:

Starter Circuit Voltage Drop

You don't have sufficient power coming out of the relay which feeds both the starter solenoid and ignition coil.

That means the problem is between the relay and the battery, any where the big wire goes.

Bypass the amp gauge, get rid of the fire hazard. I'm not sure how it is tied into the circuit because this diagram doesn't show it.

There should not be a reading over .300 between the red highlighted wire, measuring with 1 lead at each end while attempting to turn it over.
 
#38 ·
Ok, according to this crude diagram, it isn't part of the circuit.



If that diagram is correct, there shouldn't be anything between the relay and battery, except for the battery terminal and whatever terminal is used on the relay. That said, if power isn't coming out sufficiently high, but still some coming out, then you have a relay problem (not as likely), or not enough going into the relay (very likely).
 
G
#39 ·
Ok so in this picture i tryed (before when it still wouldnt turn over) to move the bright green marked wire to the post to the starter relay (to bypass the dark green wire) cause i though it was a problem,
and i burned a ground wire (at that time the ground wire i have there was a 16-18 gauge, i didnt know it had to be a larger size)that is inside the purple circle and im wondering would that have caused any form of damage to the starter relay box??

ps i did replace both of the postive and negative battery cables and the starter relay recently
 

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#41 ·
that orange wire on starter relay should have battery voltage with key on....
also check the green with whitestripe wire coming off relay that's ground for relay runs off your neutral safety switch....

jump that pink wire(of starter relay) with battery voltage and crank  her up if it starts then its your relay....this way your giving the coil 12v directly...
 
#42 ·
Muttley said:
If that gound is on the fender well, move it to the block or frame rail Where it is now is not a sufficent ground.
x2. That is a crappy spot for a ground. Attach it to the engine - cylinder head should have a spot for it, clean the contact area, apply a *very* thin amount of dielectric grease (to prevent corrosion) and tighten it down. Then make sure you have a proper ground strap from the engine to the frame or body. My ground cable is split and has one going to the block and another part going to the body.
 
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#43 ·
so in other words, my starter relay box isnt getting a sufficet ground so in turn its not working properly?


and why would the green and whitestripe wire be a ground, inless its a ground trigger to turn it on or off
 
#44 ·
s ǝoɾ said:
You don't have sufficient power coming out of the relay which feeds both the starter solenoid and ignition coil.

That means the problem is between the relay and the battery, any where the big wire goes.

Bypass the amp gauge, get rid of the fire hazard. I'm not sure how it is tied into the circuit because this diagram doesn't show it.

There should not be a reading over .300 between the red highlighted wire, measuring with 1 lead at each end while attempting to turn it over.
 

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#45 ·
Kenneth Turcotte said:
Correct me if im wrong but i dont see this wire that should go to the coil coming from the starter relay box.

Does anyone else??

Cause the wires are right for the ignition system according to the diagrams

There is 5 wires going to the coil thats the only thing i dont like cause according to the daigram there should be 3
Awesome diagram,, Thanks for posting!
 
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