Well, in the last two days I got a little further. I put a new Mastercylinder on it, as well as a new steel line on the rear axle. When the previous owner changed the axle, he flattened it. My wife helped me bleed it all out afterwards to get the old fluid out. The pedal is still soft and goes almost to the floor before the truck stops, which is how it was before. But the master cylinder was rusty and gunky inside and too cheap to not replace it. I did bench bleed it. I think the problem may be in the back brakes, I heard a lot of movement back there while bleeding them. I can't check the movement with the parking brake because the intermediate parking brake cable is missing. Something the previous owner didn't put back on I guess. I think he swapped the rear axle with the one on his dodge to get the trac-loc differential. This truck should have it but while spinning in the mud(my VA clay yard) I could see that only one rear tire spinning.......
I got the choke to work, or at least work better. It wasn't working at all before because it was unhooked from the choke thermostat, and the plastic fast idle cam was broken. I got a cam off Ebay, and hooked the linkage back up. It starts right up like it should but the choke thermostat doesn't pull down to open the choke up so it stays on fast idle. I see that the choke pull-off, the vacuum diaphram, is pulled all the way and that gets it about half open, but the rest I guess is in that thermostat, the one down on the manifold. I've seen these with a wire going to them, but this one does not. Is it supposed to be electrical?
I replaced the oil pan gasket yesterday, that was more of a pain then I expected! I got exited when the pan basically just fell off when I took the last bolts out. But what I didn't realize was that it fell out because of the missing front rubber gasket. So I put the cork side gaskets on the pan, the rubber front one on the pan, but the rear one on the engine, and lifted it into place to find that with the front rubber on it, it will not clear and the rubber falls off. So I took it off and got the pan close and installed the front rubber after it was up and almost in place using a paint can to hold it up. I got a bit confused when I put the rear rubber on the pan and could see that it was too long, but before I freaked out, I tried it's fit on the engine and it was perfect. It popped into place and held there actually. After a new filter and new oil I started it up and drove it around the block(country gravel road) and checked for leaks, none yet!
I did see while under the truck, that the drivers side inner wheel seal is popped out. I could pop it back in with my fingers but that's goint to need some attention. What's the procedure to get to that? Press out the ball joints to remove the spindle?
I also found a hole in the exhaust that I'll weld up later.
I thought about the dana 60 rear disc swap since I will most likely replace all the brake parts in the back, other than the drums. But I like having a parking brake, and those calipers are too pricey. Anyone do it with different e brake calipers?