Dodge RamCharger Central banner

edelbrock to 727 kickdown linkage....HELP Pics Added!!!

34K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  340SHORTY 
#1 ·
Does anyone have pictures of how they have their edelbrock carb and 727 tranny kickdown mounted and adjusted.  I got the truck and the engine compartment was a basket case and this is the last thing that needs to be fixed.  keep in mind i have a generic throttle cable and universal mount for the throttle cable, original kickdown bracket that attaches to the manifold bolts and the edelbrock bracket, but no instructions on any of it.  pictures would help grately.  thanks
 
#2 ·
try calling edelbrock, they are pretty good about helping people out with their products.
hrhitter97 said:
Does anyone have pictures of how they have their edelbrock carb and 727 tranny kickdowmounted and adjusted. I got the truck and the engine compartment was a basket case and this is the last thing that needs to be fixed. keep in mind i have a generic throttle cable and universal mount for the throttle cable, original kickdown bracket that attaches to the manifold bolts and the edelbrock bracket, but no instructions on any of it. pictures would help grately. thanks
[/quo
hrhitter97 said:
Does anyone have pictures of how they have their edelbrock carb and 727 tranny kickdown mounted and adjusted. I got the truck and the engine compartment was a basket case and this is the last thing that needs to be fixed. keep in mind i have a generic throttle cable and universal mount for the throttle cable, original kickdown bracket that attaches to the manifold bolts and the edelbrock bracket, but no instructions on any of it. pictures would help grately. thanks
 
#3 ·
I was hoping that someone had some pictures of how theirs is set up because i'm missing parts and dont know what they are,.....because i don't have them....calling edelbrock wouldnt do much good if i dont know what im missing
 
#5 ·
thanks, k, I just noticed that I think my bracket is mounted too far back on the manifold bolts, i dont think mine is that close to the carb, but it may be, I will get pictures of it when i get home and see if anyone can help me out further.
 
#6 ·
here are the pics that I was able to take for you guys, any help would be grately appreciated. Do i need a spring from the trans linkage to the rear driverside carp stud to hold the linkage forward, would that help me out?

complete linkage setup


close up of carb adapter setup.


notice that i dont have the factory throttle cable, and this is what i was able to come up with.
 
#7 ·
the slotted end of the kick down is supposed to be at the carb, the single hole is to the rear. You are also missing the light weight spring that holds the kickdown forward.

See this picture (pic borrowed from other post)

 
#8 ·
thats how mine started out, with a bolt through the carb adapter with one locknut then the arm then another locknut, thus clamping the bar at a desired position to allow for adjustment, but my dad's rc is the same way as mine, slot to the firewall side.
 
#9 ·
The way hp383 has it is the right way.  You want the slot to the front and DO Not want it clamped down by the bolt.  Where you have the bolt on the front there should be a stud there instead for the slot to slide on.  Your also missing a spring to pull the kickdown forward.  If the kickdown does not give full position back all the way on the trans while at WOT then you could put a small bolt in the slot to effectively making the slot shorter.

Or better yet go with a full Lokar setup. Your halfway there and you can get rid of the chrysler adaptor.
 
#10 ·


Before starting on the engine rebuild.

I'll add new pictures after working on it this weekend.
 
#12 ·
Watch out there is 2 types of linkages. The 3 piece used until the late 70's, and the single piece.

any thing will do, you just need:
A slot for the throttle to go ahead of the transmission.
a spring to keep the transmission rod forward.
Adjusted so that the transmission is all the way forward when the throttle plates are closed, and the choke is off.

83stealthtank said:
This is mine.. Had a lil trouble with kick down but once adjusted up by the carb and down at the transmission, I managed to get the position right but my spring set up is diffrent I'm missing the one by the transmission...I think I'm going to remove my linkage and paint it black just for personal satisfaction lol...
You really should have the spring that pulls the trans rod forward.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
83stealthtank said:
This is mine.. Had a lil trouble with kick down but once adjusted up by the carb and down at the transmission, I managed to get the position right but my spring set up is diffrent I'm missing the one by the transmission...I think I'm going to remove my linkage and paint it black just for personal satisfaction lol...
I know this thread has been about factory linkages and getting them to work with an edelbrock my two cents is it's worth the money to replace them with Lokar cables both the throttle cable and kick down using their bracket it's clean and I believe the adjustment is far better then what you can do with the factory stuff.

Kickdown cable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-KD-2904HT/
bracket http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-SRK-4000/
Throttle cable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-TC-1000HT/
 
#16 ·
this thread helped me out so I thought I would add to it in the hopes of helping someone else out. This is not tested yet as I have to hookup my fuel cell, but following everyones advice (for a different situation) I did the following:
I was working on adjusting the kickdown linkage with a Holley 670 avenger.
I found that there was not enough adjustment available near the trans where I could even get the chrysler extension stud to go through the slot. Standing in front of my vehicle and pushing the linkage backwards, the slot was IN FRONT (closest to me) of the stud. With such an extreme adjustment in an effort to make it work, the long shaft that goes behind the valve cover was now banging into the firewall. Back to square one I picked an arbitrary spot (adjustment) on the linkage near the trans that would later give me any adjustment if need be (forward or back). Then with the engine off during all this (of course) I put a board to hold the gas pedal down all the way and had the linkage just hanging down near the carb. I pushed the slotted bar near the carb toward the back of the engine to find the spot I needed to drill a hole in slotted bar and measured this to be 1/4" in front of the factory hole. Then I drilled a hole next to the one that attaches the bar on the linkage. For this measurement, I just pushed the bar till the very end of the full range of motion was felt near the trans. Now, at WOT, I have about a 16th of an inch of play to the back of the slot. Then I put on the spring to make the slotted bar all the way forward at idle position.
 
#17 ·
I should add that now my kickdown is now fully engaged at the transmission when the pedal is floored. Hopefully I did this right....(please let me know if you see any errors)
Forgot to add that this was for a '78 Dodge truck that used to have an older spread bore Holley. Of course I used the adapter and 670 Holley square bore. One thing I'm wondering is why the slotted bar was "too long" when it seems I recalled other posts that needed to add to the length of the slotted bar. I had to make mine "shorter" by drilling a hole just to get the stud in the slot. MAybe the spread bore throttle axis of rotation is further toward the front of the carb? Thanks!
 
#18 ·
Actually the factory says to adjust it at idle,not WFO. There is an internal stop on the valve body that sets the height of the throttle valve spool (and the forward travel of the throttle linkage). The factory method of adjustment is to lightly pull the throttle linkage forward against the stop and adjust its length until the pin on the throttle linkage just meets the rear edge of the slot with the carb at hot idle position. Adjusting the linkage so that the throttle pressure valve spool is bottomed out in the valve body at WFO  is not how the factory intended it to be done.
 
#19 ·
MoparMike72, Thanks so much! I re-read my post and need to make a correction to the way I wrote it as I was considering a couple of different methods I've seen posted and got confused (forgot) exactly what I actually did hours earlier. First, I'm gonna follow the way you said.
But correcting myself from my previous post, I essentially did it the way you stated...but it was entirely by accident!
In my situation, with the carb rod being too short....my intention was to get the slotted carb rod to fit with the extension stud...and I just happened to have measured this at the very back of the slot on the rod. (I knew I had to start with at least having the stud go through the slot- and I could adjust further from there). Now, this is what I find interesting and why the other method I've read about might be used:
I pushed the throttle on the carb all the way back at my current setting and it was very close to being the "end of the line" or "bottomed out" at the trans. I like your suggestion (the factory method) better. The one thing I didn't do was do this at hot idle. Is this critical and why? Thanks! 
 
#21 ·
Hi guys I have been reading and trying to decide. Now the kick down arm is just for freeway use right? My rc is just for in the woods. I wanted to put a floor shifter in anyway and i rarely hit 30 mphs. I mean wheel speed in a mud hole is diffrent but i mostly crawl. Do I need the kick down for this? Its all factory if I dont need it id hate to just toss it.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top