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Ball joint replacement on 85 Ramcharger

21K views 36 replies 20 participants last post by  dodge82273 
#1 ·
Just a quick question for all. My ball joints on the drivers side are starting to get loose and need replacing. Any thoughts as to what would be fair labor to change them out. I want to have an idea when I check with a couple of different shops. Thx.
 
#4 ·
scooby67 said:
I had mine done on my 1991 D150. Upper and lower on both sides, along with an idler arm. $450. I've personally done them before on my '72 Roadrunner, but I just wasn't in the mood this time around!!
for $450 I can rebuild the whole suspension and have $$ left! Especially on a D series (2WD)
reason enough for me to get "into the mood"
I just did all new bushings on my 83 D 250, along with springs and shocks; I still HAVE TO change the idler arm; but since I found 4 new tie rod ends (very old MOOG stock) for 9.99 per PAIR on FeeBay, I'm 4 ball joints away from having a whole new front end; kinda crazy not to, with everything else being brand new!
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Thanks for the feedback, but this is a 4x4. I checked with a few shops that I use from time to time and the average cost is around 1400.00 for 4 ball joints which includes alignment. Seem fair? It is my daily driver and I just don't have the space to park and work on it myself. I have a crappy HOA to contend with. Thx
 
#8 ·
rbtiger said:
Thanks for the feedback, but this is a 4x4. I checked with a few shops that I use from time to time and the average cost is around 1400.00 for 4 ball joints which includes alignment. Seem fair? It is my daily driver and I just don't have the space to park and work on it myself. I have a crappy HOA to contend with. Thx
Honestly sounds horrible, but then again, I'm not sure how many hours this is "rated at". Assume $85-$100/hr + parts. I think they might be padding the hour claim just a wee bit.

Instead, you might be better off to link up with one of many dallas area members for help and space.
 
#10 ·
Wow  :eek:

I am out of touch with auto repair fees.

X2 on finding a local member.

Even if you bought pizza, beer, and tossed them a $100, you'd still be better off.
 
#11 ·
For $150 you can buy a whole other front axle assembly and do all the repairs (ball joints, bearings, seals, u joints), hidden in your back yard and still come out ahead of those labor rates.  ;D

No, I am not suggesting doing that just to fix ball joints, just illustrating a point.



Let's say for sake of argument they are marking up parts and charge $50 PER ball joint. That leaves you with $1200 for labor, as mentioned, your local rates should be around $85-$100/hour. Assume $100, means they think it takes 12 book hours to install 4 ball joints.

 
#12 ·
I found a local shop that will do the ball joints after hours as a favor for 150.00 if I get all parts. Other than the ball joints what else am I going to need? Thx. 
 
#13 ·
well i just did all four factory balljoints on my 85 and idk what yours look like,but i would throw in a set of axle shaft u joints.its alot easier to change them when you have it down that far.
 
#14 ·
I am finally getting the ball joints taken care of this weekend. Does anyone have a part number for the axle shaft seals. Already got the ball joints, now that is all I need to pick up.
 
#16 ·
s ǝoɾ said:
Some one should step up to the plate, snap a few pictures and a good detailed set of instructions on how to do this job on the D44





A set of genuine spicer heavy duty ball joints will cost around $100. If going with another brand, opt for the premium/professional/heavy duty grade.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1097221,parttype,10070

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Crane-Dana-44-Spicer-Heavy-Duty-Ball-Joint-Kit-p-20000.html
I've got an '84 (i think) Power-Ram 100 sitting in the garage right now, I'll have to check the note the customer left on the seat, but IIRC he wanted us to replace the Fuel Lines, Brake Lines and the Ball Joints.

If it is a Ball Joint job i could easily slap together a How-To from Beginning to End. It's not a bad job, just intimidating if you've never done one before
 
#17 ·
I did it and if you do it exactly by the manual you will have no problems, I also have an 85 4x4.  It was a bit of a pain but i ordered the ball joint removal kit and the two sockets you need.  One is so you torque the upper ball joint sleeve!! I was told this is important for your toe in, when I took mine in for alignment after I had everything done, they said they barely had to do anything.  I took my time and used a caliper to measure the distance sticking out on the tie rod ends so I could put them back in the same spot.  Good luck with it all!
 
#18 ·
in the motor labor manual calls for

upper:eek:ne side 2.8 hours(does not include alignment)
lower one side 2.7 hours(does not include alignment)
however, the knuckle still has to come off so some of the labor can be shaved off to replace both for one side. ex., 2.8 hrs. to relace the upper on one side and add another 1.0 to replace the lower giving you a total of 3.8 for one side. if the labor cost per hour is at a max of $100 it should not cost more than $760 in labor for both sides plus alignment, hope this helps and good luck.
 
#19 ·
I will never pay this kind of money to have ball-joints done. Unless you have experienced friends who will take a fraction (if you supply the food/beer) of the labor cost I would study up, collect the tools you need and plan to do it yourself.

Its always better to know how to do general repair onesself. Anything outside of internal engine/tranny/axle work should be accomplishable for just about anyone with a can-do attitude,some common sense and the right tools.

I just can't see paying the cost of a premium long-block engine to replace (4) little ball joints.
 
#21 ·
I just did all the ball joints and the passenger side seems to be real stiff in moving back and forth freely. Where should that upper ball joint sleeve be adjusted to? I put it in the same position as the old sleeves were located. Thanks for any Help.
 
#22 ·
You need to do what the instructions say that came with the ball-joints. The strange thing is my FSM said one torque value, the b-joint instructions said another.

I think the sleeve needs to be tightened to 20 ft lbs.
 
#23 ·
There were NO instructions in any of the 4 ball joint boxes. I just read another post about putting them in after you tighten the lower ball joint to fac specs and then install the sleeve and  torque that then put the nut on the ball joint stud. i think thats what i did wrong.
 
#24 ·
ETexasRamcharger said:
There were NO instructions in any of the 4 ball joint boxes. I just read another post about putting them in after you tighten the lower ball joint to fac specs and then install the sleeve and torque that then put the nut on the ball joint stud. i think thats what i did wrong.
That is the correct procedure. Now to determine what is right, 20 ft/lbs or 40 ft/lbs. I don't recall what I did mine to, but I think it was what the instructions said. I can look at my FSM tonight if nobody else chimes in with their experiances. :-\
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
340SHORTY said:
SBK 1 is the seal/bearing kit for the stub shaft,,, alltho its not used in the CAD axle on the drivers side.....
That is only the early CAD axles (up to 88 I think), the later ones use the spindle bearing, and moved the CAD bearing inboard.
 
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