Author Topic: 318 to a 360  (Read 9594 times)

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Offline ramchargerkate

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318 to a 360
« on: October 4, 2013, 07:05:40 PM »
I have previously been posting about my husband and I's 1986 W150 Power Ram.... Long story short, our 318 took a poo so we were on the hunt for a new engine!  Couldn't decide on whether to rebuild, repair, or replace, etc.  We stumbled across a 1976 RV with a 360 and low miles.  In the process of dismantling it now.  We're grabbing the torque converter, but is there anything we are forgetting?  Pics below of the truck for a reminder. 

Fellow RCC users, please advise! :) And thank you!

« Last Edit: October 5, 2013, 09:30:05 AM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline 340SHORTY

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #1 on: October 4, 2013, 07:30:54 PM »
You will need a set of 360 motor mount brackets and IIRC the van 1s are different...
Your truck info goes here...

Offline Mike Barf

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #2 on: October 4, 2013, 07:33:38 PM »
engine mounts, are slightly different between the two, double check the radiators, if the 318 was "factory" the ignition harness, voltage regulator (charging harness) , dizzy, all accessory brackets (motorhome likely has an upgraded alternator and the "factory" base brackets are different than the high output ones), essentially everything that connects the engine to anything else from the radiator to the trans and from the chassis up.
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #3 on: October 4, 2013, 07:40:54 PM »
you just need the torque converter for the 360.  you may be lucking with a 76 having a drain plug on the face of the TC.

the 1 driver side motor mount is a little narrower than a 318 motor mount.  depends on what chassis the RV is based on but it should already have truck motor mounts and the rear sump 360 oil pan.

not sure what exhasust manifolds you have on the 318, but i would run the 76 center dump mannys as they will not have the egr/tube ports that need pluged when removing the emissions crap.

everything pretty much swaps from 318 to 360, you just need the correct oil pan/torque converter/drive side MM

thats another thing.. I was wondering how much emission stuff was still on your truck and how much did you plan on keeping?

I myself strip the truck wireharness by-passing most everything and run a pertronix points conversion in a points dist.

strip all of the emission/egr tubes/checkvalves..ect. of of them to run headers/duels.

what intake do you have to run? a 340/360 head has the large ports so a good intake to match with a 4-v carb is needed.

even more!!! are you going to paint it up nice when it goes in?  you know...put some lipstick and eyeliner on it??  HEMI ORANGE! always works in a truck.

what trans? what xfer? what gears? size tires? on that rig.




« Last Edit: October 4, 2013, 07:45:42 PM by 440power »


Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #5 on: October 5, 2013, 10:20:26 AM »
Dragged the motor home at midnight.  Just put it in the garage this morning.
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Offline sls001

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #6 on: October 5, 2013, 10:33:32 AM »
Looks like you also have the makings of a great on-board- air system with that AC compressor and brackets as well!

Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #7 on: October 5, 2013, 10:35:55 AM »
Here's what we know: The data plate on the dodge motor home shows the date 6/7/1976.  The odometer shows 85,133 miles.  Here's what's cool.......  Found a detail auto record book for the RV, every gas fill up to oil changes.  Looking through the records indicates in 1993, new engine.  Mileage at that time was 72,898 meaning the difference from the current odometer this motor should have only 12,235 miles.  It was last registered 1999. From 99 to present there has only been 1006 miles added.  So, we looked at the block date and it shoes 5/08/75. Could be a 78, but a little rusty, so my thinking is the engine was rebuilt using the same block but either way since the engine replacement, I've got a heck of a low mile 360 with a little over 12K miles.

The engine number is 4006830-360-4.  We took EVERYTHING.  Wiring harness, torque converter, engine mounts, starter... anything the wiring harness was plugged into, we unbolted that part too. 

440Power:  The 318 that came out of the truck was bolted to a 727.  Pollution was already scrapped.  Running aluminum intake and 4B with stock mani's. And its def getting makeup!

I read that some auto transmissions have the lockup.  I Need more help understanding this. What can I look at?
We have dana 60's, 410 gears, and 37 inch tires.
« Last Edit: October 5, 2013, 11:14:14 AM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #8 on: October 5, 2013, 10:38:08 AM »
Hey Sls001, thanks for the links. When I get back this evening I'm going to review them. In the meantime, I hope this torque converter I got goes in the current xmsn but won't know until I get more understanding about the lockup-type xmsn's....
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Offline sls001

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #9 on: October 5, 2013, 10:41:27 AM »
Hey Sls001, thanks for the links. When I get back this evening I'm going to review them. In the meantime, I hope this torque converter I got goes in the current xmsn but won't know until I get more understanding about the lockup-type xmsn's....

Personally, I would use the B&M flex plate and not the old RV converter unless you know that there was nothing wrong with the RV trans. 

Your Rams trans shouldn't have been lock-up but I wouldn't know for certain about the RV's. 

Offline chrysler300le

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #10 on: October 5, 2013, 02:29:49 PM »
Neither trans will be lockup.  Lockup didn't' come out till 78 on some cars.  4x4 pickups didn't get it till early 90's.

The engine is black which isn't original.  They were originally blue.  Everything else on the engine looks 70's ish.
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Offline EY8s

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #11 on: October 5, 2013, 02:50:40 PM »
Neither trans will be lockup.  Lockup didn't' come out till 78 on some cars.  4x4 pickups didn't get it till early 90's.

The engine is black which isn't original.  They were originally blue.  Everything else on the engine looks 70's ish.

yep, no lockup convertors on truck 727's.
additionally - if the rv engine mounts are different for some reason, you can use your 318 mounts - the pass side is a direct boltup the driver's side will need several washers.  I ran one like this for years with NO ISSUES.

as mentioned - you'll need a 360 specific rear sump pan (probably have one on there I didn't look at the photo)

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Offline 76dodgeboy

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #12 on: October 5, 2013, 03:25:23 PM »
Almost looks like it will bolt it. Correct pan, look to be correct motor mount brackets but hard to tell from side. Wiring really wont do you any good because yours isnt a 70s camper. They could have purchased a reman motor which I believe they try to get you the same yr motor as being replaced. That could be reson for being black. Looks like you wont have much trouble if any.
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Offline EY8s

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #13 on: October 5, 2013, 03:40:00 PM »
shoot, ya'll did good - I bet that thing drops right in as-is  {cool} (just looked at the pic, i'm on the road).

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Offline 340SHORTY

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #14 on: October 5, 2013, 09:17:22 PM »
check the intake port sizes on your alum manifold..  The 318s have smaller ports than the 360s... 
Your truck info goes here...

Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #15 on: October 5, 2013, 09:35:20 PM »
my 85 727 2x truck was a lock up trans. but will wager it was a 2x truck thing not 4x4 trucks.

with the TC removed from the trans, look at the end of the input shaft...if the end is milled smooth about 1" to 1.5 " it is a lock up trans. the valve body will have the lock up valve/port with a small tube running across the top of VB to another port..hydro lock-up.  VB with a noid came later to work the lock-up valve.

if the input shaft has splines all the way to tip of shaft it is a non lock up, the 4x4 truck and the RV will have a stock low stall TC for lowend torque/pulling.

you can upgrade the TC non lock up or lock up to a stock Highstall TC with about 1800-2300 rpm stall depending on engine torque.

on lock up trans I have used a blocker rod to block the LU valve in the VB and run a stock high stall lock up TC..never locks up so it stays a 3 speed auto with a stock highstall.

keeping it to a stock stall specs with a remaned TC lets it have just enuff stall to torque up just off idle. I get mine from a local trans shop around 120$ and are well worth the $ for the upgrade with a 318 engine and even better for a 360 engine.  even better turning 4.10s scratching with 35-40 inch tires.

great score!! on a low milage 360.  well done shoping for low budget sales.








Offline 76dodgeboy

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #16 on: October 6, 2013, 12:03:41 AM »
check the intake port sizes on your alum manifold..  The 318s have smaller ports than the 360s...
That won't really matter. People have been putting 4bbls on 318s for years
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Offline 340SHORTY

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #17 on: October 6, 2013, 12:19:45 AM »
but a small port intake  will severly hamper the performance of the 360... 
Your truck info goes here...

Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #18 on: October 6, 2013, 11:23:35 AM »
440 POWER:  Just pulled the TC out of the dodge to look at the splines and it reveals I have a non lockup xmsn.  Splines go all the way to the end of the shaft, awesome.

Now, how can I tell exactly if I have a 727 or a 904 xmsn?  I've always assumed it was a 727 but now that I'm getting more personal with it, my guess is I need to look at the oil pan but idk, still a newbie here, and a girl  ::) :P

But it's safe to assume the 360 and TC I pulled from the 76 RV is a non lockup.
« Last Edit: October 6, 2013, 11:32:05 AM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #19 on: October 6, 2013, 11:29:34 AM »
Going back out there soon but the current intake on my 318 is an aluminum edlerbrock with 4BBL.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #20 on: October 6, 2013, 11:52:08 AM »
Just climbed under truck.  Got a good pic of the pan.  From the looks of it, my guess is its a 727. Pic below.
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Offline ChrisKD

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #21 on: October 6, 2013, 11:59:56 AM »
You will need a set of 360 motor mount brackets and IIRC the van 1s are different...

A Driver's Side 318 Motor Mount Bracket can be used on a 340 / 360, by shimming the mount back (IIRC its back, not forward?) about 1/4"

3 (or 4, depending on if its a 360 or 340) 1/4" thick Washers between the block ears and bracket are a popular and common method of using a 273/318 on a 340/360, especially in the muscle car crowd where 340/360 mounts are hard to find and highly sought after.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #22 on: October 6, 2013, 12:23:32 PM »
Quick question.... what is this?
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Offline ChrisKD

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #23 on: October 6, 2013, 12:28:17 PM »
Quick question.... what is this?

Cruise Control Servo/Motor.  If your truck has Cruise Control it would be mounted to the Driver's Side Fenderwell.  Since the motor came from an RV, they mounted the Cruise Control servo right to the motor, due to a lack of space to bolt stuff anywhere else.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #24 on: October 6, 2013, 12:52:18 PM »
Chris...my truck doesn't have cruise control and the part is ugly.  So I guess I should remove it :).  And could you tell me what type of dipstick this is?  It came from the 76 RV and has wires going to it.
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Offline ChrisKD

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #25 on: October 6, 2013, 12:54:52 PM »
Chris...y truck doesn't have cruise control and the part is ugly.  So I guess I should remove it :).  And could you tell me what type of dipstick this is?  It came from the 76 RV and has wires going to it.

I have never seen a Dodge Small Block use one of those before, but I do recognize it (it is commonly found on Mitsubishi Diesels, which I know like the back of my hand)

Its a Dipstick with an Oil Level Sensor built in. It turns on an indicator light, should the oil fall below a safe level.


EDIT : Looking closer (had to turn my head to the side, lol) You're holding the Transmission Dipstick (with a fluid level sensor), notice it says "Check Idling in Neutral"
« Last Edit: October 6, 2013, 01:00:44 PM by ChrisKD »
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Offline 340SHORTY

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #26 on: October 6, 2013, 01:05:46 PM »
Going back out there soon but the current intake on my 318 is an aluminum edlerbrock with 4BBL.


That doesnt meen squat..  There are 2 different size intake ports on small block LA Mopar engines..  318s have small ports, 340/360s have large ports...
Your truck info goes here...

Offline Skwerly

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #27 on: October 6, 2013, 03:04:46 PM »


1978 pop-top SE, 440, junkyard built.  :D

Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #28 on: October 6, 2013, 05:45:18 PM »
Yep we have a 727!   :o
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Offline 340SHORTY

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #29 on: October 6, 2013, 08:23:19 PM »
linkynoworky
Your truck info goes here...

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #30 on: October 6, 2013, 08:29:19 PM »

That doesnt meen squat..  There are 2 different size intake ports on small block LA Mopar engines..  318s have small ports, 340/360s have large ports...

Not necessarily true.  There are many 318 engines that use 360 heads as well as many 360 engines that used small port heads.  Some years, the same head was used for various versions of each engine.
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #31 on: October 6, 2013, 10:03:57 PM »
on the small intake port VS large intake port...you can mix match them either way and will never notice any gain or lack of from the mix match ports. is it ideal..no.   does it work ok enuff to be a daily driver..yes.

Kate...may i call you Kate?

if you have a edlebroke intake that is a performer intake for a 318/340/360, which has the right size port for a 360 thru the length of the runner but necks down at the port gasket area for small 318 ports..

 alittle home porting with sanding rolls in the first 1" of the port opening on intake it will open right up to a 360 gasket size and then will be set for the 360 engine...some where in the instruction sheet that comes with a new performer 318/360 intake it explanes this and how to.

yep the elctro dip stick is a RV thing.. it would light the low fluid level light on a RV that has the engine in a dog house that other wize would need removed to check the trans fluid.

yes, that confirms a non-lock up 727 on the input splines, and the pan shows the kick out under the dip tube area to confim it is 727. would be safe to bet the RV TC is a low stall non lock up as well. does it have a 5/16 drain plug on the face of TC, that went away in 75-76 IIRC.  vwry good to have on a 4x4 in case you fill it up with water. it will let you flush the entire unit.

also the xfer has a bolt on the case that is  the lwest spot that will drain the last little bit out of xfer that will not come out from the regular drain plug. (since you are getting to know your 4x4 more closly that might come in handy to know at service time.

cruz control junk..remove and toss it.  use everything off of the 318 in the truck, it all will bolt on the 360 so strip and paint it. then dress it with the 87 brackets.






Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #32 on: October 6, 2013, 10:39:24 PM »
440 Power: Thanks for the info. I already removed all the wiring from the 360, I was hoping the 318 wiring was going to work on the 360, which sounds like it will work. We pulled the mani's and had three of the 4 studs break, already drilled and tapped. I am going to buy new studs and install them after sealing them as they bolt into the water jackets.  These are the ones located to the outside near the freezeplugs.  But now I am concerned about the metal shavings in the waterjackets in the 360 heads so I was going to pull the freezeplugs on the heads and clean out any metal shavings from drilling and tapping and install new freezeplugs.  And I did break a piece off my tap into the waterjacket, I was able to push it through but that little tap piece is now inside the passenger side head waterjacket to the rear freezeplug. 

I never sealed waterjackets before installing, do you recommend using a sealer before installing freezeplugs, if so what kind?

I need to clean the exhaust manifolds and I'm thinking about removing that flapper looking thing on the passenger side mani and plugging the holes.  Its rusted out real bad.  unless otherwise advised by the community to leave it or how to remove it.  Looking for techniques here. 

I did break the oil dipstick tube off at the block while stuffing the 360 out the passengerside door of the RV.  I guess I can drift it out through the bottom when I remove the oilpan.  I will need a replacement tube in the near future, any advise on where to get one and maybe a part number?  Will the 318 oiltube and stick work on the 360?

Another day or two I will start preparing for a fresh paint job, Mopar orange block. 

I am not expecting anything performance wise from the 360, I want to have a reliable everyday driver. 

I am thinking about looking for a set of 35 inch tires, I currently run 37's  12.50 16.5's they are like new and might trade for some 35's. I would like to go with a 17 or 18 inch rim.

Thanks again for your advice.



« Last Edit: October 6, 2013, 10:58:24 PM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #33 on: October 6, 2013, 10:49:21 PM »
About the engine mounts on the 360.  They look like they would bolt right up to the truck.  I measured the right 360 mount and its the same as the 318 mount.  I measured the left and it is about a 1/4 in narrower than the 318 mount.  So my thought is keep the mounts on the 360 and try dropping it in.  I see why one would stack washers on the left 318 engine mount when attached to the 360 block.  But I already have mounts on the 360 so lets see if they work?
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #34 on: October 6, 2013, 11:03:31 PM »
the shaving are no problems, just remove a core plug and flush it out.

the studs are in water ports and could use some anti seize or rtv sealer on the threds when new ones go back in.

yes,remove flaper and plug holes with some 1/4-20 set screws after drilling/tapping holes.

yes all wiring from 318 works..use the 87 dist in the 360 when it goes in.

on core plugs going back in (i recomend a full set of brass ones, get a whole kit for less than 18 bux at napa

it will give you brass core plugs for block, oil gally plugs, dist intermed shaft/block bushing which is a good idea to change all that now.. at least the 2 rear core plugs in the block between trans and block...dont want to repull it for a leak there for sure..

I like to use some of the indian head gasket shelac to seal core plugs to the block...libes it slightly to go in smooth and dry to seal and lock them in good for no leaks. just clean the block hole edge with some sand paper to remove any rust in the bore of hole.

yep, you got it...only way to remove broke dip tube from block is drive it from bottom with a long drift.

you can remove the one from the 318 same way and reuse it in the 360 block..it will match the pan for correct oil level.

if the tube is a little loose from being removed going back in the block you can use some loc-tite quik-metal on the end going down in the block..

just clean with brake clean add a little loc-tite qiuk metal and install it.let cure over night and it will hold it in place goodand not leak.  it is for holding bearing races in place in worn bearing hubs/races/spindles  nothing permenant but will hold it on place till removed.

if it is a tight fit in the block find a long deep socket that will allow the tube to slide thru it but rest on the crimped ring that seats the tube in the block when full inserted. then tap edge of socket with hammer to drive it in.

mopar orange..what a great choise.

Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #35 on: October 6, 2013, 11:08:39 PM »
those 360 engine brackets/stands/motor mounts will work if they have no offset built into them.

if they are the tall sqaure straight ones almost identacal to the 318 mounts then they are good to go as is on the 360 block.




Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #36 on: October 6, 2013, 11:14:56 PM »
440 Thanks, I will stop by NAPA tomorrow and look into the core plugs, I always heard them called freezeplugs, They are the same thing right?

I really like the deepwell socket trick for inserting the tube into the block.  But im not sure if the 318 has that little ridge at the base near the block, I think its an aftermarket one that is chrome.  I will check tomorrow.
« Last Edit: October 7, 2013, 08:25:33 AM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #37 on: October 7, 2013, 09:24:42 AM »
correct..freeze plugs/core plugs

you will have to buy the smaller ones for the head seperate from the block kit.

you may or not open the 360 engine..but if you do I suggest changing the bushing in the block that the itermediate shaft (oil pump/dist drive) goes thru. it comes in the kit and is ez to knock out when oil pump and shaft are removed...some times the shaft will carbon up and pull the bushing out of block when it is driven out from the bottom with oil pump removed.

IIRC all oil tubes will have that lip that will act as a stop/seat for the tube. so it is in at the right depth for oil meausrement.

if that engine has not run in a while, I pull the oil pump and pack it with vasaline jelly so it primes right off the bat, the vasaline is pertrolium jelly so it will melt and not clog the filter or hurt the oil.

I assume you will be pulling oil pan and replacing all gaskets but the head gaskets now before it goes in the truck.  I do the JY engines this way to save hassels of leaks and ez to R&R everything, then add paint.

Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #38 on: October 7, 2013, 11:01:47 AM »
440... I plan on replacing all gaskets including pulling the oil pan and replacing oil pump. I plan on stopping at NAPA today after work.

Question, why should I swap out distributors from 318 to the 360?  Only thing I notice is the vacuum on 360 distributor is facing aft and the 318 is facing intake manifold.

I assume if I ask about brass freeze plugs for 1976 360 heads, NAPA will know what I need. I guess they go in and out like the others on the block. I never changed them on the heads before. That's why I asked about sealers.  I Do plan on knocking out block plugs and replacing, especially the back between trans and block.

I did hear the motor run before pulling, idled nice and no smoke, the only oil leak I noticed was oil pan, and while I have oil pan off I was going to replace rear main even though it looks good. I believe after 1999 the RV sat most of the time according to registration and maintenance log I found. So for the last 13 years it moved a little over a 1000 miles, camper roof was shot and leaking rotting out inside.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #39 on: October 7, 2013, 11:12:08 AM »
even though the antifreeze was nice and bright green in the 360 before pulling the motor, we plan on replacing water pump as well.
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #40 on: October 7, 2013, 03:04:04 PM »
you are right on track with the freshin up. sounds like a solid plan and should be hassle free for a while after it is up and running.

I figured on the dist it was already in the truck and working so drop it back in the 360.  the vac can on dist sounds funny???  a marine revs rotation dist?? but you heard it run with it correct?

maybe the can is on that side cause it was in a RV that would have more room and ez to work on in a dog house.

the dist could be droped in out of phase with some one clocking the dist housing the wrong way and just moved the plug wires maybe. I have found some goofy billybob things going behind PO of trucks/cars. this can cuase trouble with getting timing set, as sometimes the vac can has clearance issues.. maybe they corrected  for that and just reclocked the dist..  you must do more research on it and post back results.  thats a good one. ???

as long as the vac can pulls the advance plate the correct way it will work also.. are you still running stock ign on the truck?

Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #41 on: October 7, 2013, 03:13:07 PM »
you may have to measure the core plugs for end of heads so they dont have to look it up... and they just might have steel plugs on in that size...thats the way it goes for me with that now and then. no worry use steel if they have them in hand.. use the Indian head gasket shelac to lube/seal them.. it helps driving them in.

find a socket(deepwell) that fits inside the cup of plug a little loose, then use it to drive them in square/straight and get the cub edge flush with the head/block casting...not to far or you have fun digging them out.

when you remove old ones, use a drit on one side of it to knock it in and turn it side ways, then vise grips to pull them out... flush block and do check to make sure no one has pushed old rusted ones into the block with a prevs repair of rusted core plugs.. I have pulled 7 rusted one out of a used engine before is why i mention it.


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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #42 on: October 7, 2013, 05:01:14 PM »
even though the antifreeze was nice and bright green in the 360 before pulling the motor, we plan on replacing water pump as well.

Not too butt in but I would think twice about replacing the water pump unless there is something wrong with it, I would rather have an older used Chrysler water pump with no issues than a brand spanking new Vietnemise water pump that may last a year and need replacing again. That is what you will get these days when you buy new from the regular jobbers.

Just my two cents, Ill shut up now  ;D
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #43 on: October 7, 2013, 05:38:25 PM »
Well no luck with cylinder head freeze plugs today.  I only found two and the part number is a Dorman 555-024 made in China of course.  Anyway I bought one to take home to see if the edge fit in the hole. Well the plug seems to be a tad bigger, then I put the edge in the 318 hole and it seems a bit smaller.  As soon as I know the correct part number I will order a set.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #44 on: October 7, 2013, 05:47:44 PM »
1930 good call, that is why we are posting here to welcome feedback and advise.  I encourage all comments concerning maintenance techniques and advice and enjoying hearing from the Ramcharger community about their personnal experiences including trial and errors. 

I hope someday soon I can contribute back to the community for maintenance advice.  However I do enjoy posting receipes and I have a new one to post soon, as it turned out great.  The idea is to prepare dinner without spending a lot of time in the kitchen.  I would rather be in the garage! ;D

« Last Edit: October 7, 2013, 06:03:48 PM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline chrysler300le

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #45 on: October 8, 2013, 04:19:20 AM »
New replacement water pumps seem to be OK its the reman ones that are junk.  I'm not a big fan of brass freeze plugs.  The expansion rate is different between the brass and cast block and they tend to seep.  Steel plugs will last another 10 years or more.  I was thinking the small head freeze plugs was the same size as the small one in the front of the block.  I've bought freeze plug kits with and without head plugs.  The more complete kits come with everything and then some for an engine.
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Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #46 on: October 8, 2013, 11:52:34 AM »
We ordered the gasket kit, freeze plugs, exhaust mani studs, and new dipstick tube from Mancini Racing.  We plan on going through the 360 this weekend and will post the progress!

Should we start a new thread on RCC for the 360 project and link this one to it? Or keep it here?
« Last Edit: October 8, 2013, 08:20:42 PM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #47 on: October 8, 2013, 12:40:50 PM »
IMHO,I would keep one post going here on the help board and one going on the project board..?s on one and pics on the other. less to keep track of..for me anyways. ::)

FYI..since you asked for advice from others...a tip i picked up was to place a bottle jack under the trans to hold it level like it is when bolted up to engine.

install the TC and spin it making sure you get both steps on the input shaft spline engaugement and it is seated all the way back.   now place a small c-clamp in/on the lower center lip/edge of trans bell to hold TC from sliding forward while installing the engine. ( a piece of flat stock with a bolt hole and slight bend will work, use a dust cover bolt hole on the bottom of bell)

remove the rubber biscut mount from frame and engine mount brackets from block,this will allow you to drop the engine in level and down far enuff you just push it back a little to get the trans lined up on the dowl pins and then bolts go in, then lift engine and install brackets/rubber biscuts and sit it down on frame.

save the hassle of fighting a tilted engine bolting to a level trans bell.

also remember to leave the oil filter off while it goes in the bay, 2 lower trans bolts go in from the front..

I am sure you husband may already knows this, I take it he is the muscle turning wrenches and you are the smart one that types out the ?s   LOL!

Offline ramchargerkate

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #48 on: October 8, 2013, 08:31:04 PM »
Good stuff, my husband did place a ratchet strap across bottom of trans before pulling motor. I will let him know about the TC before we install the 360.  Im heading to the garage now to help out and to make sure he has a cold one ready at hand.  We need to clean up the garage some to make ready for the 360 for when the parts get here.

I think we are sending the heads to the shop to have them gone over before installing new head gaskets. More pics in the near future.

« Last Edit: October 8, 2013, 08:33:12 PM by ramchargerkate »
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Offline 440power

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Re: 318 to a 360
« Reply #49 on: October 9, 2013, 08:45:24 AM »
LOL! that is one lucky guy you have.. a wife that drive a lifted 4x4,  works on mopars, keeps beer cold and ready at hand, and is a fast cook not wasting time in the kitchen to be in the garage to log work hrs and updates on RCC.

very lucky indeed.

I for one look forward to the udates with pics.

maybe have the heads shaved .050 to bump comp ratio about 1 point. those dished pistons/open chambers need all the help they can get.