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3 inch lift

2K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  truckphone 
#1 ·
so i want to lift my 88 pu 3 inches,
for the front i was planning on re arching the fornt leafs and adding a leaf to them.

the rear i was paling on re arching as well and adding a leaf, i was also wanting to do a shackel flip, my reasoning behind this is i dislike blocks, and want to eliminate the oem block.
also want to have the spring plates above the leaf spring, so there are no stump cachers poking down.

i'll be using a dropped steering arm for corection,

i have a set of rear lift shocks, so i just need to buy a set of new fronts. what do you recomend for front shocks.
 
#2 ·
Rancho shocks work well on RCs.  I got a 3.5" Rancho lift, but it only came with springs for the front.  They wanted me to put in longer blocks in back. I ended up getting SuperLift springs in back.

Check prices of re-arching springs, and compare to available kits.
 
#3 ·
why not a 3 inch body?
 
#6 ·
BOGGER35 said:
for one if your truck aint in a complete RUST free condition the body lift will RIP it apart because of the EXTRA leverage the body lift puts on it
I've seen some prety rusty rust buckets with body lifts on. how do you figure that lifting it straight up will add Leverage to the body mounts?
 
#7 ·
16FW said:
For another. While a body lift is cheaper, it doesn't get you any extra ground clearance, and makes the truck top heavy.
your right, any lift without larger tires will not give any extra ground clearance. the difference in breakover height between a 3" body lift, and a 3" suspension lift is negligable, and would never be noticed.

if you're comparing a suspension lift, to a body lift, the suspension lift will make the truck more top heavy, as you have just raised the engine, trans, frame etc, while the body lift will only raise the body.
 
#8 ·
a good friend of mine re arches springs, he has a nice hydraulic press and made a jig for doing it, so re arching dont cost a thing.
all i'll have to buy is new u bolts and a steering arm,
extend brake lines,
longer shocks, etc...
 
#9 ·
if you have a guy that re-arches springs, that is probably your best bet. i would say if you are getting the steering arm and stuff like that, why not go for more. i'm not sure how much you can actually re-arch a spring, but you might be able to arch them enough to get rid of your block. dont know if you've thought about this yet but make sure your leaf springs are in good shape before you decide to do this. rusty leaf springs break sometimes. and that could complicate your plans.
 
#10 ·
we have re arched springs about 6 inches b4, the only issues is they get a bit short eye to eye.  This truck is going to be a daily driver, so i'll do what i have to to lift it the 3 inches, and if it requires using a one inch block thats cool, i just dislike blocks.

my buddy has broken a spring b4, it was for a 69 chevy 3/4 tonn 4x4, whoops, what an oddball lenght it was, he was unable to find a used pack to replace it and had to buy new springs that are actually for the front of a bus, lol, he got lots of lift out of them.

oh, i also have spare leaf packs, i will be arching those up so there will be minimal downtime when the lift is installed.  i have a set of front and rear springs from a 82 4x4 i stripped and a ser of springs from a ramcharger.
 
#11 ·
BOGGER35 said:
for one if your truck aint in a complete RUST free condition the body lift will RIP it apart because of the EXTRA leverage the body lift puts on it
Darn tootin. Take the body off those frames and they flex like wet noodles. Pick the body up 3 or 4 inches on some hockey pucks or whatever and that wrecks em quick.

However you won't see it too quick if you just drive on the street.
 
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