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1977 Dodge Power Wagon specifications

29K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Baja Rob 
#1 ·
I am needing some information about a truck I am trying to build now.  It is a 1977 Dodge Power Wagon, step side, short bed, 4x4, 400 cid, manual tranny, NP-203 T-case. 

First, I am wanting to know how much fuel the stock tank will hold.  I don't like where it is located and want to put in a fuel cell that is close to the same capacity.

Next, I would like to know how much this truck was supposed to weigh from the factory.

I would also like to know where I can find a new wooden bed floor.  I also would like to have new hardware as well.

I also would like to know where is the best place to get replacement panels for the truck.  Floor boards, fenders, and all new mounting bushings, and the like.

Last I am needing a new interior.  Dash, seat, carpet, glove box, door panels, and other small parts.  Where is the best place to locate these pieces.  The doors have a bad sag to them and I would also like to fix that while I am at it.

This truck has lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico all of its life and for the most part is in good condition.  I would like to make it better than it is currently and I will be making some improvements along the way.

I have already installed a Corp. 14 bolt full floater in the rear, Dodge Dana 60 up front with 4.88 gears and a detroit locker.  Next up are some parts from Jungle for the front and rear suspension and a small lift.  I have intentions of running 40" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's with Kevlar for tires.

Thanks in advance for any help y'all can give me.

LT.
 
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#2 ·
if the tank is behind the front seat its 22 Gal,s

about 5800 to 6200 Lbs

wooden floor click link http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/

do your own searching raybuck.com - poly performance

interior - good luck with that / either redo yours or the junkyard

you can buy door pins at any parts store
 
#3 ·
DODGEBOYS said:
if the tank is behind the front seat its 22 Gal,s

about 5800 to 6200 Lbs

wooden floor click link http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/

do your own searching raybuck.com - poly performance

interior - good luck with that / either redo yours or the junkyard

you can buy door pins at any parts store
Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone know if those Raybuck quarter panels will fit/match an '88 Ramcharger?
 
#5 ·
85 Royal SE Prospector said:
5800-6200 is the GVWR. Weight should be closer to the 4000-5000 range, probably halfway between. Lots of variables so you really should weigh it yourself.
GVW is 6100#. I'd estimate the curb weight to be around 4800-5000#. :)

Mopar Truck Parts is located out on the west coast...

http://www.mopartruckparts.com/

Dodge Connection is an east coast outfit...

http://www.dodgeconnection.com/DodgeConnectionHome.html

Craigslist, eBay, and a local junkyard or two are always good sources of parts. Of course, some of the best stuff can be found right here in our own classifieds section. ;)

Mar-K Quality Parts in Oklahoma City, OK might be an excellent place to look specifically for Utiline truck owners...

http://www.mar-k.com/bed_identification_dodge_short.html ;D
 
#6 ·
Wow!  Thanks, y'all.  Very much appreciated.  I guess I can spill the beans on this truck a bit.  My brother in law is very involved with Four Wheeler Magazine Top Truck Challenge.  He asked me again if I would want to go and be a part of the recovery team again.  I was part of the recovery team in 2008.  My Ramcharger is not very good looking and I thought it would not be something I would want to look at on TV.  So, I set out to find a good looking classic truck and stumbled on this step side.  This will be one of just a handful of recovery vehicles at this years Champion's Cup of TTC.  That is why she will be built a little on the large size.  I needed to know the weight since I might haul both rigs out to California on my trailer.  But, since the truck is not in good enough condition to drive I was having to assume and we all know what happens when we do that.

Thanks again for all the excellent info.

LT.
 
#7 ·
I have another stupid question.  How do you get a true dual exhaust run on the truck with the stock fuel tank in place?  The only solution I can see is to remove the stock fuel tank and install a fuel cell in the bed.  The only other way I can see this working is if you bend up the exhaust tubing to go under the frame and run the pipes between the body and the out side of the frame rails.  This does not seem all the good of an idea since you would be decreasing the ground clearance on the truck.  Does anyone else have any ideas on this?

LT.
 
#9 ·
Thank you.

Next question for y'all.  Am I off my rocker for thinking I can use some Jungle parts, a six inch Tuff Country lift, zero rate add a leafs, to fit 40" Goodyears?  I figured the front Dana 60 has the perches cast 1" higher than the Dana 44, the zero rates, and the six inch lift should get me around 8" higher than stock up front.  The rear I was thinking of using Jungle's shackle flip kit, six inch springs and my zero rate to make it at least level with the front.  Actually I would like to have the rear an inch or so higher than the front.  The zero rates are more so I can move the axles fore and aft to help with spring compression and fender clearance.  The only other consideration is the truck needs to be somewhat high way frinedly so, I have ruled out the 63" Chevy springs in order to keep it more stable.  What would y'all do differently? 

LT.
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
Okay, I now have the one ton axles swapped in, sitting on some 285's on 2001 Dodge take offs, and I just came home with a set of five 40" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's.  I am now wanting to know what to do for the lift.  I have a set of zero rate add a leafs for the front axle and the rear axle.  I figured I could move the front axle forward a bit and the rear axle back a bit.  Now, what do I do for the rest of the lift?  Is six inches going to be enough with the added 1" block?  What about the front axle and the taller differential castings?  They are 1" taller than on the Dana 44.  I figured that a six inch lift would net me about eight inches total.  Is this enough?  How about the wheel off set.  Is 4.5" going to be enough or do I really need to look at a set with 3.5" of offset?

Next series of questions are about the motor.  It has a 400 big block in it now would I be better off to build the 400 or swap in a 440?  Why would you run one verses the other?  I am running short on time so easy would be better for now.  Is the 400 even worth rebuilding?

And as always, thanks in advance.

LT.
 
#14 ·
Baja Rob said:
^^^Does anyone have any thoughts on the above? Am I posting these questions in the wrong area?

LT.
The vehicle help section is correct, and gets the highest traffic. But you could break out this particular problem as a new post to gather focused attention. You can also do a search and see what others have done. 6" doesn't seem like enough for a 40" tire, but I don't have experience past 35".
 
#16 ·
Baja Rob said:
^^^Does anyone have any thoughts on the above? Am I posting these questions in the wrong area?

LT.
...patience ;) - you'll get the answers, but I personally am having a difficult time absorbing all of the questions at once :) . The 63" rear springs won't make it any more unstable - that's what the newer trucks are using from the factory. 6" lift may not be enough to clear 40's, but you could always do a body lift and gain an additional 3 inches. One of my past trucks had a 4" suspension lift and a 3" body lift and it easily handled a 36" tire, and I'm near certain it would have fit 40's, but I can't say how well it would have articulated - it'd have probably rubbed here and there.

On your exhaust you could swap in a Ramcharger fuel tank and run the duals along the lower side edges the tank's skid shield - I did that on a truck recently and it worked great. Plus the RCC tanks carry 35 gallons verse the 25 gal pick up tanks.

Lots of great bolt-on parts for a 440 that don't require any voodoo. That'd certaily be simpler.

- Sam
 
#17 ·
Thanks y'all.  I am unsure of what I want to do for the fuel tank still.  One thing is for sure that the tank will be different than what is in there currently.  The motor is really up in the air.  I feel so stupid.  I had two 440's and one was still in the frame out of a 1970's truck and the other was out of a motor home.  I sold both of them a year and a half ago.  I think the 400 will get the nod since it is already in the truck and all it needs is a rebuild.  The next big problem is the wheels and suspension.  I can't decide on either the Allied Daytona bead locks or just some Daytona regular wheels.  I am going to run Jungle's rear shackle flip and I really wanted to keep the truck as low as I could for stability.  I won't cut the rear fenders but, maybe I could use the 6" lift, move the front axle forward an inch, and and some slight trimming on the front fenders.  Still not sure on the lift yet.  I guess I should figure out the wheel situation first, bolt them on the axles, separate the axles from the frame and see what it is going to take to make them fit.

Keep the ideas coming as I really don't know about the wheels.  Also, I keep hearing about using Chevy springs.  Which ones, how much lift, and what length where?  Can I use the Chevy springs with Jungle's parts?  What would y'all do?

LT.
 
#18 ·
400 is an awesome motor if you ask me. They are said to be one of the strongest. The thickness are alot thicker than a 440. You can put the 440 internals (crank/rod) and a good set of heads and you will have a 451 stroker motor that puts out a ton of torque.

And you will fine alot of answer's by looking at other peoples builds in the picture section.

To clear 40's i would do the jungle shackle flip rear and the front setup to match it. That with a 6 inch lift should clear 40's with alittle trimming. Im on a 6 inch lift and 37's. my tires rub when fully articulated and my fenders have been trimmed lightly. the jungle flip adds a few more inches then zero rate blocks.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the input.  I really like the looks of Jungle's parts and spoke to him on the phone a month or so ago.  Really a cool guy and knows his stuff.  Right now I am thinking about using some Chevy springs instead of Dodge springs.  Seems like most folks prefer the Chevy springs due to the length and better ride.  I am seriously looking at some 56" rear 6" lift springs and standard Chevy front springs.  If I read right the 6" lift 56" rears should give me the 8" lift I need for the back end.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this or on the motor?

LT.
 
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