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Topic: Tuff Country 6" lift  (Read 476 times)
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imrighthere17
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« on: March 11, 2010, 10:17:02 AM »

Hello, I am new here and I am sorry if I posted this in the wrong spot.  I have been watching this site for a good 8 months and decided its time I join in the posting.   Quick intro, my name is Scott, I am 23 years old and have a 1988 W100 with a 318.

Now for my questions.  I installed a 6inch tuff country lift last fall on my truck.  The back of the truck sits 2 inches higher than the front.  Is this normal with this lift?  I read the "how to" and I couldn't tell from the pictures how that RC sat.  If this is normal what are my options for raising the front up a little so its not as bad.  It doesnt have to be perfectly but close would be nice.

I also installed the included transfer case drop kit and after installing it the top of my distributor cap hit the firewall and broke a small piece off.  I have my replacement and havent replaced it yet.  My truck doesnt get driven much and with the cold weather I stayed inside a lot lol.  Now that things are warming up I am wanting to get to work on my truck again.  Has any one else installed the transfer case drop kit with a small block had this problem?

Also, when I ordered the kit it was missing some of the parts for the transfercase drop down kit, I drove the truck with out the drop kit installed and only used 4wd two times for only a few minutes when we had some snow and I needed 4wd.  I noticed a little vibration the first time but not the second time.  After installing the kit we had 2 major snow storms and I got to use my 4wd a lot and did not notice any problems.  If I raise the front up some more is this going to cause problems again?

I have a couple pictures of my truck but they are not the best to show you what I am talking about, they are just pictures of me messing around with the snow we got.  I will try to upload better ones to show you what I am talking about when I get time.

http://s688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/imrighthere17/1988%20Dodge%20Ram/

Thanks
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Rambunctious86
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2010, 12:31:33 PM »

Can't tell from the pics, but do you have new rears springs, blocks, spring and block?
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1986 Ramcharger, 4" Lift, 360, 727, 208, 60/14 w/ 4.56, 39.5's TSL, detroits. SEE IT
imrighthere17
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2010, 12:36:36 PM »

The rear are springs and factory blocks.  When installing I called Tuff Country to verify that this was correct.  I will try to get better pictures tonight when I get home.
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RollingBombShelter
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2010, 10:59:31 PM »

Nice truck.  Depending on the size of the rear blocks, I would say it would almost be easier to get slightly shorter blocks as opposed to raising the front.  If you don`t need the extra inch or so it would probably be cheaper.  I know that advance auto has 2" block kits for like $20.  Measure the height difference over the wheels, then the rear block.  If its only an inch or so different than you shouldn`t have any problems.  The block measurement is to know what size you will need.

Hope this helps,
Jake
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2010, 11:05:50 PM »

The original rear blocks are cut at an angle to set the pinion angle. They do have add a leafs that i think give you 1-2" lift, you could add those to the front, as a matter of fact the Rough country lift i have on my 87 has 1 on one side in the front as per rough country.
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1982 W250 utiline long bed, 318, Jacobs fc1000 and c4 coil, Flowtech headers, Isky cam, Performer intake,  4" suspension 3" body lift, M/T 345/60/18 baja atz tires and M/T classic 2 rims,  435 4 speed, Holley 2d injection, custom digital dash in progress, Hardliner headliner, 130 amp alt.
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2010, 11:11:48 PM »

If they are similar to the blocks on my `88, then you could just about cut them down yourself(with a metal bandsaw to ensure straightness).  I was under the impression that you could only add so much to the front spring pack without changing studs on the pass. side of a 44.....  I guess I don`t know quite how wide of an add-a-leaf you`re talking.  Don`t they generally also make the ride a little stiff as well?
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slohand65
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2010, 11:17:27 PM »

No your right about the studs to much and you have to change them again. I think all the lift kits come with new ones, The rough country kit I got had studs long enough for 1 add a leaf. If I remember right they included them if your truck was ass end high to level it off.
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1982 W250 utiline long bed, 318, Jacobs fc1000 and c4 coil, Flowtech headers, Isky cam, Performer intake,  4" suspension 3" body lift, M/T 345/60/18 baja atz tires and M/T classic 2 rims,  435 4 speed, Holley 2d injection, custom digital dash in progress, Hardliner headliner, 130 amp alt.
Sean
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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2010, 09:08:15 AM »

What would be the most accurate way to measure the difference?  I measure from the lip of the wheel well to the tire and its 2" high in the back.  And I have had a couple people tell me to just put an add-a-leaf in the front.  I am aware it will make the ride stiffer but thats not a deal breaker to me.  I just want to make sure that it wouldn't cause any problems with the front drive shaft.  I tried to get pictures last night but the truck is in my garage and I couldn't get a good side shot of it.  If it stops raining this weekend I will get it out and get a couple pictures.  Also, on the front studs.  I am not positive but I want to say the kit did not come with longer studs instead it came with 2 bolts that you put where the studs were.  And looking at Outlaw's how-to his kit had bolts as well.  If I put an add-a-leaf up front then I would buy the appropriate length studs and use them.

My main concern with the lift is the transfer case drop kit.  Like I said when installed it, my distributor cap hit the firewall, its not hitting it now but one of the plug wires is tight against the firewall.  I have plans to one day swap in a 440 and want to know if this will cause any clearance problems or is that something I will have to find out when I get that far?

Thanks for the advice so far guys.  I know it sounds stupid that I never thought of it, but I really never though of just getting slightly shorter blocks for the rear that sounds like the cheapest way to get a more level stance.  I am confortable working on my truck but I am still learning so any advice is welcome.

*Edit*
How much more stiff would add-a-leafs make the ride?  I mean I already feel every bump in the road but I dont think the ride is really that bad.  The only stiff part of the ride is the rear springs those things dont seem like they want to give at all.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2010, 09:11:09 AM by imrighthere17 » Logged

RollingBombShelter
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« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2010, 04:22:40 PM »

The new springs will get "broken in" over time, sit a little lower, and ride a little bit smoother.  I wouldn`t know about the front drive shaft length issue or the add-a-leafs, as I have never had either.  I also don`t know about 440 clearance in an `80s model truck.

What did the t-case drop kit consist of?  If it was just an adaptor to clock it down a little, then I wouldn`t see how that would cause any problems.  See if you can figure out Why/where the drivetrain is twisting.  Then we might be able to figure out why.

If you cut down the factory blocks, I would do an inch at a time just to ensure that I didn`t overshoot.  You could get new blocks and it would be easier, but cutting yours down is free.  Plus if slohand is correct(I think he is), you would retain the factory tilt, helping your pinion angle with the lift.
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« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2010, 05:31:19 PM »

I have a new 2" front spring drop hanger & shackle kit available in the vendors section. That would give you a 2" lift in the front.
Jim
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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
1988 RC.440,4" lift,727 
BIG BLOCKS RULE !!!!!!!
440 pics
imrighthere17
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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2010, 08:51:19 PM »

I have a new 2" front spring drop hanger & shackle kit available in the vendors section. That would give you a 2" lift in the front.
Jim

I like this idea best so far, I have heard nothing but good things about your stuff.  How much would all the parts I need run me?  I would not be able to afford them right now but maybe in a month or two.

The new springs will get "broken in" over time, sit a little lower, and ride a little bit smoother.  I wouldn`t know about the front drive shaft length issue or the add-a-leafs, as I have never had either.  I also don`t know about 440 clearance in an `80s model truck.

What did the t-case drop kit consist of?  If it was just an adaptor to clock it down a little, then I wouldn`t see how that would cause any problems.  See if you can figure out Why/where the drivetrain is twisting.  Then we might be able to figure out why.

If you cut down the factory blocks, I would do an inch at a time just to ensure that I didn`t overshoot.  You could get new blocks and it would be easier, but cutting yours down is free.  Plus if slohand is correct(I think he is), you would retain the factory tilt, helping your pinion angle with the lift.


The t-case drop kit was just some round metal spaces and longer bolts to lower the crossmember.

And I think I am going to go with Jungles parts to raise the front up 2 inches.  I want to double check my measurements just to make sure I need to raise it 2 inches, I don't mind if the front is a little lower but not the other way around.

Thanks for the help guys.  I still got pictures coming.  I am just waiting for the rain to stop, its supposed to rain all weekend  Sad
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« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2010, 04:13:57 AM »

If you don't mind a 2 week lead time you can get a custom length just for you. Right now I have the 2" drop,4" drop, 4 3/4" drop & a 5" drop in stock. But I can make a 1 1/2" ,2 1/2" or 3"drop or what ever you need. The short drops would run about the same price but taller ones run a little more because of the welded "H" shackles.
Give me a shout when your ready.
Jim
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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
1988 RC.440,4" lift,727 
BIG BLOCKS RULE !!!!!!!
440 pics
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