So I guess you are going to be the brave soul to tackle the OBD2 swap? Seems a little more complicated.

You're probably right, but I'm gonna start giving it a go. I guess if all else fails I can just get a magnum 4bbl intake and an aftermarket ignition and call it good;)

I'm gonna try to set everything up outside before I start taking I render the RC useless by taking the engine and trans out of it. The way I see it, I need the engine wiring harness and computer from under the hood. From inside the cab I'll need the OBD-II plug and harness and the wiring for the engine warning lights. I'm envisioning some sort of light panel on the dashboard for those.

I guess the gauges for oil pressure, voltage, etc might be an issue since they probably get their signals from the ecu. I could probably go with aftermarket gauges and sending units so I don't have to wire the ecu into the instrument cluster for engine readings.

Now, if I decide that I really want MPFI, could I adapt the computer and harness from the 93 to work on the 96 engine? Both are complete and run, I imagine I may have to swap out various sensors, but that's not too big of a deal. In that case might it be feasible to even change out the instrument cluster and wiring into the 86...



sounds like it's possible. Maybe I'll keep the 208 in the RC for the time being and hold onto the 241 for a spare

Yes and no. Most of the '96s instrument readings come from dedicated sensors. Well, there are only 5 or 6 gauges depending on. Fuel, battery, and oil pressure obviously have nothing to do with the pcm. The tach and speedo are some how tied in to pcm. The water should still have it's own gauge sensor at this particular year, but I could be wrong.


This is kind of the way I would envision things.

Now here is a separate thought. You have a running 93 engine bolted to a 5 speed bolted to a 241, correct? Why even use anything else? Slam that whole thing in as an assembly and be done with it.

I think if I were you, there is nothing on the '96 worth using IMHO. Now if for some reason the '93 engine was a 318 and you just forgot to mention that, I would pull the 93 intake off, and slam it on the '96 360, thus converting it to a "93 360" Of course I would take care of the valley pan at the same time.

Just like if I pulled the 241 off the nv4500 for any reason, I would be fixing the 5th gear nut problem.

One last caveat. Fuel pressure regulator. It's inside the tank. 

Crucial details.    (the entire top end swap still applies if found for cheap from another engine)

Not even saying the connectors are different, might be. One minor detail is the crank sensor needs to match the pcm since obd1 ran 8v crank sensors, obd2 ran 5v. The rest of the sensors/injectors/solenoids run on similar parameters, but connectors may or may not be the same.

Sounds like you need this bad boy.
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/81.htm

Roughly.
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php/topic,127521.0.html
Page 3 has some fuel pressure tech, I chime in explaining a little about numbers, vacuum ports, deviation, the rest (the build thread itself) is just plain good stuff for you to know.



You will find that most do not include a regulator, that is a separate purchase and may easily cost more than the pump. It is not pressure we are concerned with, it is flow. Usually in efi demonstrated by "pounds per hour". Something like a generic walbro 255 inline is more than sufficient.

Nitrous....I know thousands of real world users can vouch against me, but I will say it anyways. I would avoid running nitrous fuel enrichment off the main pump/line. Personally, I would recommend a separate line/pump dedicated specifically for the nitrous fuel solenoid, with it's own regulator.

Why? Multiple reasons, but the biggest is when that solenoid opens it can cause a sudden drop in pressure/lean spike. The other reason, I prefer the fuel enrichment to be low psi, closer to 5ish psi. Reason? It is much easier to tune jet size at that psi. Fortunately it does not require super mega dollar hardware. Quality low pressure carb type pump (NOT that mr gasket universal pump) and a simple $30 dead-head regulator (no return line required) even noisy holley red/blue pumps are perfectly fine since they will only be running when the switch is armed.

Apparently this is hit or miss. Doesn't matter, because your engine is a '96. (regulator built into rails, a 3.9 rail being useless) Return style wasn't supposed to be phased out until '94, but just like in his case, his '93 did not have a regulator. Stupid dodge and their inconsistencies.

the factory carb pickup will likely support the required fuel. One thing your stock sending unit does not have (or maybe it does actually) is a return line setup. Could be wrong on that one, if it does, roll with it. If not, the 94-02 draw straw could help provide a clean installation for extra ports. OR can work with nitrous. Just out of paranoia I may be scared to draw fuel for the engine AND nitrous off the stock pickup.

One more thing is you way want to figure out some baffle or surge tank setup. It may be possible to uncover the pickup for a moment in certain circumstances. We all know pumps can get hot and burn out if there is no fuel to cool them. That's why the late models use that white plastic basket, the return line keeps that basket full no matter how low the tank is. The pump can't use that fuel, it's not a reserve, but it does sit there and help cool.

I have seen several die due to low level. The kicker is, they don't actually die until you fill them back up with fuel, often dying only a short distance after leaving the gas station. Now you have a full tank. I heard an argument that once the pump gets that hot, the sudden cooling effect of filling up can damage them, but maybe it's just ironic murphy's law that several people have required towing from the gas station.

Ok. In 94 dodge was supposed to ditch the FPR (putting it in the tank) for sure your '96 should not have one. A '93 should but apparently there is a mid-year split. That doesn't matter since they are built into fuel rail and your v6 fuel rail is useless even if it has one. So either way, a visit to the jegs website for a generic inline, bypass returnline style is required. Just as other poster found out, don't get too hung up on specific fuel pressure numbers, just make sure it will handle over 40-50psi, and you can dial down as needed, and install vacuum reference line if you want.

I gotcha on the fuel stuff Joe. I would like to do this without taking the tank out, but I suppose in the long run it's better safe than sorry. Since this is going to be a ways down the road and there's still snow on the ground here and frost in it I can't start til May or June. In the mean time I can start collecting more parts.

ToxicDoc: The 86 is an automatic, so I'll be having to use all the clutch hydraulics and pedal and whatever else out of the 93. Part of the reason I'm finally getting closer to actually doing this is that I have two donor trucks that should have ALMOST every little piece I need;)