Author Topic: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks  (Read 3159 times)

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Offline John Patrick

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rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« on: January 28, 2005, 03:11:22 PM »
I have been reading around on the stroker kits for small blocks.  Are the 4.00" cast cranks just machined, stock 360 cranks, or a custom piece?  All the kits use a stock length aftermarket rod, but none of them offer a low priced kit for use with stock rods.  I don't need high RPM stuff.  Do you need a custom big end for a smaller crank journal?  If so, does someone make a custom rod journal bearing for use with a stock rod?  I see Keith Black/Silvolite makes hyper. pistons for a tad loess than $300.  Is it possible to make a 408" small block with the only expensive part being the pistons?  This is my first dodge small block.

Thanx.
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Offline Rammin78

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2005, 03:59:51 PM »
Crank is a special piece.  If you go with the stroker, you're gonna be spending some money, no way around it.

Bob
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Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2005, 05:06:25 PM »
Thanx Rammin.  Speedomotive (speedomotive.com) sells the crank for $350.  I e-mailed them and they replied.  They sell a rotating assembly, but I had to e-mail them to get a price for just the crank.  They say the cam & bottom the block must be checked.  It is $300 for pistons from KB, and rods are still in question.  
Thanx.
1983 RC
318/thermoquad
435 manual 4-speed
208/fixed yoke
3.23:1/posi rear
all stock

Bought a 4" RC lift & a 1977 4X4 dodge motorhome w/a 60F, 70R, 360, 727, 203.  Now must put axles/lift under RC.

Offline Ram

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2005, 07:34:45 PM »

Thanx Rammin.  Speedomotive (speedomotive.com) sells the crank for $350.  I e-mailed them and they replied.  They sell a rotating assembly, but I had to e-mail them to get a price for just the crank.  They say the cam & bottom the block must be checked.  It is $300 for pistons from KB, and rods are still in question.  
Thanx.


That is a pretty low price for a stroker crank. Who is the manufacture and is it a cast or forged. I wouldn't think its forged. Also what is the strength of steel.  
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Offline OkieRam440

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2005, 08:17:41 PM »
Small block strokers make GREAT 4X4 engines.

Of the more common ones built, a 4" stroke 360 (408) is the least expensive and gives the most bang for the buck, mainly due to piston price on the KBs.

Stock rods are fine but I would definitely have them rebuilt and use good rod bolts.

Remember, balancing can run into a pretty penny, especially if Mallory is needed.  I paid near $300 for balancing.

At that price, the crank is surely cast but it will work just fine.  I turn a 4" crank in a 318 to 6600 rpms on a regular basis. And it sure is fun to tell guys that they just had their ass kicked by a 318 and show them the number on the side of the block.

A stroker is a great way to go but Rammin78 had it right.  It is not a cheap venture.

Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2005, 09:25:04 PM »
Thanx for the info.  I was reading an article in the Car Craft tech archive, about an 408 SB Chrysler.  They were talking of a new stroker crank that Mopar makes for $300.  This seems interesting, especially in CA where a BB swap in an 83 won't be legal (friggin CA).  This sounds like a great RV build up.  Hey OKIE, the crank is offered with 318/340 mains or 360 mains.  What is a .030" over 318 w/a 4" stroke?  Are they internally or externally balanced?
Thanx.
1983 RC
318/thermoquad
435 manual 4-speed
208/fixed yoke
3.23:1/posi rear
all stock

Bought a 4" RC lift & a 1977 4X4 dodge motorhome w/a 60F, 70R, 360, 727, 203.  Now must put axles/lift under RC.

Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2005, 10:40:38 PM »
How old was the Car Craft article?  They wrote a good, informative article on the 408 a few years ago.  The reason I ask is that the Mopar Performance crank now runs in the $400 range, if I remember correctly.  I think Eagle now has their brand on one but I have yet to see a price.

The 4"  .030 over 318 is 391ci if I remember correctly.  Really makes a LOT of torque for it's size but the only pistons I know of off the shelf are forged Diamond brand and run about $550 a set.  That is why the stroked 360 makes more sense if you can find a cheap core or already have one.  There aren't very many 360 cores left around here and I don't feel like paying $350-$450 so have been playing with the 318 a lot lately.  You can also either buy the 3.51" stroke crank or get a 360 crank turned to 318 main size and can usually run a standard cast 318 piston.  Think you wind up with about 349 cubic inches.  The longer stroke give considerably more torque, at least in my 1971 Dart.

I have also found it to be best to internally balance my strokers.  I am sure someone will have something to say about this but the strokers I have externally balanced just didn't seem to live as long and I would much rather do it ONE TIME.

Offline Evildriver-3

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2005, 12:01:19 AM »
  Externally balancing isn't good.    Putting a 3.51 in a 18 rather than just build a 60 with a 3.58 is beyond me why you would do that?    

     Don't worry about using the factory rod if you don't want to go to aftermarket rods
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Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2005, 02:10:46 PM »
I built my first 3.51 stroke 318 because I was able to buy the forged crank (new) and forged pistons (new) for under $300, including shipping.  I have since built two more and love the little extra I get off the line.  I am able to run 11.40s in a 1970 Dart.

360 cores are ridiculously expensive in some parts of the world.  That is why I have been playing with the 318 for about two years now.

Offline Evildriver-3

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2005, 08:18:03 PM »
    So the crank was free,  you could have run 11's with a 60,  i just can't believe the pistons and crank were $300,  the crank is more than $300.  
   If the 60's are expensive that's one thing,  but i  can't see playing with anything less than 3.58 stroke if your gonna go thru the trouble
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Offline TheRamChargerMan

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2005, 01:22:28 AM »
they also make bearing spacers now so you can use a 340 crank in a 360
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Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2005, 02:30:29 AM »
   So the crank was free,  you could have run 11's with a 60,  i just can't believe the pistons and crank were $300,  the crank is more than $300.  

Cranks and pistons were purchased on ebay.  $298.50 total including shipping.
The forged cranks with 3.51 stroke for 318/340 mains routinely go for well under $250 on Ebay still.  Try finding one for a 360 at that price.
The point is simply that I could not come near building a forged crank, forged piston 360 for the price that I can build the 318.  And if I wanted to go faster I would simply put on a shot of nitrous, which, by the way, my forged crank and forged pistons would handle much better than a 360 with cast crank.
I will definitely agree that starting with a 360 makes more sense for most people.  But some of us like not having vehicles out of the same cookie cutter mold as most others.  We like to experiment and try different things.  What's wrong with that?
Oh, and I am running in the 11s.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2005, 02:31:46 AM by OkieRam440 »

Offline Evildriver-3

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2005, 06:23:54 AM »
   So the crank was free,  you could have run 11's with a 60,  i just can't believe the pistons and crank were $300,  the crank is more than $300.  

The point is simply that I could not come near building a forged crank, forged piston 360 for the price that I can build the 318.  And if I wanted to go faster I would simply put on a shot of nitrous, which, by the way, my forged crank and forged pistons would handle much better than a 360 with cast crank.
Oh, and I am running in the 11s.

   That is not true a 60 and 18 are similar to build,  the 60 has endless choices out there for stroker combinations the 18 has 1,  i don't know how you come up with it is cheaper to builda 18 especially with a 3.51 stroke that there is no off shelf piston for,  but everyone has 1 off shelf piston for the 4 crank and none of them are cheaper than the 60 pistons,  yet the 60 has atleast 8 choices in pistons in stock stroke and atleast 8 in the 4" stroke.
    But if you are saying it is cheaper to build a 3.51" over a  4.0" 18 or 60 with much more on the shelf options then i have to believe someone is filling your head full of lies,  let alone who is making these forged pistons for $200 and the crank.

    However if you are saying the 3.51 is more expensive for the 60 i could see why since no one is destroking anything, and why destroke a 60,  but why is it then the forged steel cranks are cheaper for the 60 mains then the 18/40 main's,  same with the cast versions also,  the 60 is cheaper then the 18 and 40 to build.

    A forged 3.58 (factory 60 stroke) for a 18/40 main is $1300  same crank and 4340 i might add is $700 for the 60 main,  the pistons also cheaper,   the 4" forged.. the 18/40 main $800.. the 60 main $715 again 4340.
   Cast 4" 18/40 main $350 ,   60 mains $300,  pistons are cheaper for the 60

    Now have you played with a stock bottom end and juice, i can get stock bottom ended sb's into the 11's on juice,  same with bb's,  i have yet to see a cast crank fail.    Even the 60's and 400's with there external balancing.
   I have seen slight cracks in the wrist pin area of the piston (the bs and rb's but i believe it was that detrimental weight not really the mixed nos system),  but not 1 motor ever came apart or had any failure and im not talking about your little 100hp shot either nor am i talking once or twice use either a week,  were talking a few 15lb bottles a week sometimes.

     Im all for experimenting by the way,  god knows what i have added, removed, pumped thru, sprayed in, mixed together in sb's and bb's and strokers.   Just that i have yet to see a 18 cheaper to do then a 40 and 60.    I just finished my 5th sb stroker it happens to be based on a 40 and due to a particular thing i had to have this motor cost a lot,  but if i did it differently the 60 still would have been cheaper.
 
     As for bearing spacers,  that is insane
« Last Edit: January 30, 2005, 06:31:50 AM by Evildriver-3 »
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Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2005, 02:09:14 PM »
I really do not want this to escalate into a full scale argument, especially since we are talking more about drag racing than four wheeling.  However, I do not feel I should have to defend my rationale just because another does not agree and I do have several points to make.

There is no doubt that in almost every case a 360 can do more, for less, than a 318.  Longer stroke and larger bore have a tendency to do that.

However, in my case, 360 cores are ridiculously priced and are seldom found for less than $350, while 318s can usually be had free or for $50.  That is quite a difference in price, at least for me and is what started me on the path of stroking the lowly 318.

I am not sure where the quoted price of $200 for pistons came from.  It is certainly NOT in any of my posts.  I currently recommend two OFF THE SHELF pistons for those building a 318 with 3.51 inch stroke.  The last price I paid for the Speed Pro forged L2329F pistons were $289.  I have also built one with the Sealed Power cast 285NP piston which is $80 per set of eight.  These off the shelf, standard 318 pistons can be used in MOST 318 blocks due to casting tolerances and MOST 318s have a deck significantly taller than the 9.600 factory spec.In the eleven 318/3.51 strokers I have built or helped build, only one had a deck anywhere near factory specs and we simply left the piston .019 out of the hole and used a .060 head gasket.

These forged 3.51 cranks were discontinued by Mopar Performance and were very inexpensive about 1-2 years ago.  After lucking into my first crank/piston deal on ebay I then purchased three cranks at 189, which included shipping because my total order was over $500.  These cranks, although they are getting harder to find and the price is going up, can still be had for well under $300 if you look.  I haven't seen a forged 360 crank near that price, ever.

So, if you factor in the original core cost difference of approximately $300 where I live, add in a forged crank for a price less than that $300 plus approximately $300 for FORGED pistons, building a 349 cubic inch stroker based on the 318 begins to be a little more appealing.  I cannot build a forged crank, forged piston 360 for the same price as an equivilant 360. And 11 cubic inches is not that much more.

I do agree that a 4" stroke 360 is considerably less expensive to build than a 4" 318, mainly due to the good price on the Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, along with the cast Mopar Performance crank being in the neighborhood of $30-$50 less expensive. But again, if I factor in the price difference in the original core, the price is once again nearly equal.  And it really is fun to let someone know they have just been had by a lowly 318, and it even says so on the side of the block.


Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #14 on: January 30, 2005, 02:44:33 PM »
Hello, lot of information here.  I'll read it a few times more to let it completely sink in.  Sounds like the 408 is pretty reasonable option.  Here in SoCA, 360's are pretty plentiful, I just hate forking over the $$$ when you do not know if you are getting a good, standard bore core.  

If one goes to <<carcraft.com>> (I think that is it), you can search the tech archives and the whole article is in there on a 408 build up.  I don't want to find it right now because I am at home w/a slow dial-up computer.  I can do it when I get to work.  

Thanx for the info.
1983 RC
318/thermoquad
435 manual 4-speed
208/fixed yoke
3.23:1/posi rear
all stock

Bought a 4" RC lift & a 1977 4X4 dodge motorhome w/a 60F, 70R, 360, 727, 203.  Now must put axles/lift under RC.

Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #15 on: January 30, 2005, 02:53:54 PM »
The 408 is a great engine and would be especially good for a 4X4.  I think the article you are referring to is a little old so expect prices to be higher.  I belive the 360 main 4" stroke crank runs about $389 or so right now but am not sure.  The Keith Black hypereutectic pistons are also a great deal.

Offline Evildriver-3

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #16 on: January 30, 2005, 07:52:55 PM »

I really do not want this to escalate into a full scale argument, especially since we are talking more about drag racing than four wheeling.  
 


    This has nothing to do with drag racing or 4 wheeling this is just motors and money.
     This is how i am looking at this,  you got a 18,  you need a crank, and heads,   you get a 60 you need pistons,  you say $300 for the 60,  but you left out the heads,  so already you spent just under $300 on a crank and $50 for the 18.   Now the heads on that 18 is useless,  whereas the 60 was just pistons some bowl work and valves.    
      I also concern myself more about the piston weight,  the SP is 611gms vs the KB at 502 and a Ross at 484,  those are shelf not custom.
     Although you have made the 18 a little better with a RR at 1.74 vs the 1.85 it had netting the better low end.

    Im not coming down on you there is just more in favor of the 60, and every little bit helps,  you have some points of interest when you compare them together the 18 kinda loses out.
       
             
 
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Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #17 on: January 30, 2005, 09:24:45 PM »
I have never used stock heads on a 360 or 318 and consider them both pretty well useless without big dollars spent on porting.  So they do not figure into my thinking.  

I also understand why, for most, the 360 is a better staring point.  But, dollar for dollar, I am still able to do as much with the 318 and still wind up with a forged crank.  As long as I can still get the 3.51 cranks at such a great price that won't change.  

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #18 on: January 31, 2005, 12:26:11 AM »
You say, "I have never used stock heads on a 360 or 318 and consider them both pretty well useless without big dollars spent on porting. "  and that kind of begs the question....  What heads work well on a stroker motor.  Does it have to be Eddy heads?  Will the Commando heads work OK?  Which heads would be best for a 408 small block stroker motor?

Roy
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Offline Evildriver-3

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2005, 07:17:33 AM »
   Well if you want the most out of a 4" sb and don't mind the money use a W,  or Indy,  or a  587 with some porting,  the commando or edel head will also need porting,  but the 587 starts off cheaper all 3 wind up costing a few hours,   technically even the W and the Indy could use a little porting if you know what you are doing otherwise leave it alone.  
     Go for a custom roller spend the money on which ever head you choose and welcome to 500 ft lbs before 2300 rpm, and with  9.2 to 1
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Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #20 on: January 31, 2005, 10:54:03 AM »
For heads, I was hoping to just use some stockers w/some garage bowl work.  I have also read on some "302" castings for 318's (hope I have that # correct).  It was a cheapo, 360, torque build-up.  The guy used the 318 heads from, I think he said, a mid 80's 318.  I am only looking at a idle-maxumum 5000 power band, with more emphasis on the low end, I want to have a motor that is comfortable bogging about at 1000RPM.
Thanx again for all the info guys, this is a great site for a guy with his first Dodge small block.
1983 RC
318/thermoquad
435 manual 4-speed
208/fixed yoke
3.23:1/posi rear
all stock

Bought a 4" RC lift & a 1977 4X4 dodge motorhome w/a 60F, 70R, 360, 727, 203.  Now must put axles/lift under RC.

Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2005, 10:56:46 AM »
1983 RC
318/thermoquad
435 manual 4-speed
208/fixed yoke
3.23:1/posi rear
all stock

Bought a 4" RC lift & a 1977 4X4 dodge motorhome w/a 60F, 70R, 360, 727, 203.  Now must put axles/lift under RC.

Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2005, 12:43:19 PM »

You say, "I have never used stock heads on a 360 or 318 and consider them both pretty well useless without big dollars spent on porting. "  and that kind of begs the question....  What heads work well on a stroker motor.  Does it have to be Eddy heads?  Will the Commando heads work OK?  Which heads would be best for a 408 small block stroker motor?

Roy


Sorry about my previous statement because it is not entirely accurate.  

First, let me say that I meant the commonly available stock 318 heads and the 360 heads with 1.88 intake valves.
I do think that the 340/360 heads are pretty good with 2.02 valves.  I have not tried any "308" heads and so have no opinion on them.  I have put "302" heads on both a 318 and a 360 and found they were pretty good on the bottom end but ran out of steam by about 4700 rpm on the 360.

I have had great results from mildly ported magnum heads on a stock stroke 318.  By mildly ported I mean gasket matching, contouring the valve guide in the intake port and widening the intake port where the pushrod hump is.  This is very simple porting that I am able to do myself.

Secondly, although they are not really stock, the magnum R/T heads have been wonderful to me.  With just the mild porting described they work wonders on a 4" stroke 318 I have in one of my Darts.  I believe they would work as well on a 408 or 416 stroker.

Now, before someone decides my ass looks like a ribeye and decides to take a bite, let me say this.  I am sure you can take a common set of 360 heads and make them run great.  I am just as certain that there are those talented enough to take a set of "old style" 318 heads and make them run a 10 second quarter.  But I do believe it would be easier to start with something that flows well to begin with.

As for the "W" series of Mopar heads I have no experience either but know those that do.  My opinion of these heads is pretty high.

I have never used, nor will I ever use, aluminum heads.  Just a personal thing.

Offline TheRamChargerMan

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #23 on: January 31, 2005, 12:57:49 PM »
So Ed..What's wrong with the spacers ??  they decrease surface area of contact between the crank journal and the main bearing which in turn decreases friction.

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2005, 03:18:49 PM »
OkieRam, that is some good info, and some good ED3 handling as well.  I was comtemplating some 302 heads on a 360 that won't see over 4000.  Did you use the stock valves in those 302's you used, or did you use 360 (1.88) valves?

I'm currently running ported 2.02 'J' heads on my 360, which I feel are costing me low end to give me top end I never use.  I was thinking about swapping the 302s on, with 1.88's to cure that.

To realign this with the original topic, the 'J's would probably work better with a stroker, which I want to build next.
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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2005, 07:27:31 PM »
Mancini racing as a kit with everything you need I am thinking of this or a big block stocker

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2005, 07:32:23 PM »
      Muscle  motors has kits also and balanced,  i wouldn't even consider a 302 for a stroker,  you want it to perform good you gotta think big
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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2005, 08:02:24 PM »

OkieRam, that is some good info, and some good ED3 handling as well.  I was comtemplating some 302 heads on a 360 that won't see over 4000.  Did you use the stock valves in those 302's you used, or did you use 360 (1.88) valves?

I'm currently running ported 2.02 'J' heads on my 360, which I feel are costing me low end to give me top end I never use.  I was thinking about swapping the 302s on, with 1.88's to cure that.

To realign this with the original topic, the 'J's would probably work better with a stroker, which I want to build next.


I purchased the 302 heads with 1.88 valves already installed but there was no porting.  If I had known enough to at least blend the bowl they probably would have done a little better on the 360.  But the torque was great.

Standard small valve 302s would probably work fine on a 4000 rpm 360.  Although I am not sure, I believe they will pull to about 4400 or so.

And I would definitely keep the J heads with 2.02 valves.  I will agree that the 302s would just choke up the stroker without spending more on them than they are worth.  

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #28 on: January 31, 2005, 10:00:30 PM »
No, I wouldn't entertain putting the 302s on a stroker.  Just on the 360, which is compression-challenged anyway.

I happen to have a nice roller 360 core for a stroker candidate..... :D
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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #29 on: January 31, 2005, 11:15:04 PM »
and mancini racing lists (in their flyer, not onthe website) a magnum r/t head that is made for LA intakes.
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Offline OkieRam440

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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #30 on: February 1, 2005, 12:44:20 AM »

and mancini racing lists (in their flyer, not onthe website) a magnum r/t head that is made for LA intakes.


Hey, RamChargerMan, what is the price and do you know if they are in stock?

I am getting kind of tired of drilling and tapping my heads for regular LA intakes.

Offline John Patrick

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #31 on: February 1, 2005, 01:51:27 PM »
Hey Ramchargerman, that is mucho power you 360 is making.  After all my storker questions, I wonder if a RV/semi stock 360 with the Edelbrock heads/intake is a equally cost effective route for big torque?  Seems simpler.  How does she run?  Is there massive torque down low?
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RE: rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #32 on: February 1, 2005, 11:24:30 PM »


and mancini racing lists (in their flyer, not onthe website) a magnum r/t head that is made for LA intakes.


Hey, RamChargerMan, what is the price and do you know if they are in stock?

I am getting kind of tired of drilling and tapping my heads for regular LA intakes.


part # P5007950.............$419.95 for bare casting

not sure about in stock or not.

You will also need amc style lifters and hollow pushrods, they also have the for less than $200 total

John P.....she runs good.  BUT, my heads and intake are far from stock.  They have been ported, and flow as much at .400" lift as the eddy BB heads do at .700 lift.  Plenty of torque, but my gearing isn't the best for my setup.  I need 5.13's.

She runs 9.8 in the 1/8 @ 69 mph.....just the way she is in the avatar.  That's roughly a 15.2 sec 1/4 mile.  Not too bad for a 5400 lb 4wd.

My cam is also larger than stock @ .488/.490 I/E.

The intake is a very good deal.....kinda gives you the best of both worlds.  Dual plane for torque, but the design acts like a single plane up top.
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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #33 on: February 2, 2005, 11:12:36 AM »
Thanx for sharingthe tech info Ramchargerman.  My slow 318 & 3.23:1's leave me thinking on how to get more power daily.  Trying to gather as much info as possible before I make a decision on what to do next.
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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #34 on: November 20, 2006, 06:16:36 AM »

Hi John,,, I have recently been doing alot of research on the 349 stroker, use the mopar 3.58" stroke -318-340 mains crank, you can use a stock Sealed Power LC371.P. piston, it has a 1.658 compresion height,it will put you at about 9.75 to 1 compresion,and then a cam with about 262 int. and 270 exh with about .450 to .480 lift and you can have a 400+ ft. lbs of torque and 340 to 360 hp engine. That would be a great little sb, lots of torque for a 349 mopar and great gas milage... Bill

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Re:rods & pistons for stroker small blocks
« Reply #35 on: November 20, 2006, 06:31:42 AM »
Hi John,,, I have recently been doing alot of research on the 349 stroker, use the mopar 3.58" stroke -318-340 mains crank, you can use a stock Sealed Power LC371.P. piston, it has a 1.658 compresion height,it will put you at about 9.75 to 1 compresion,and then a cam with about 262 int. and 270 exh with about .450 to .480 lift and you can have a 400+ ft. lbs of torque and 340 to 360 hp engine. That would be a great little sb, lots of torque for a 349 mopar and great gas milage... Bill

John,,, that will give you a 9.571 inch piston to deck height,, your factory 318 deck height should be 9.600 >> this should give you .029 thou clearance befor the piston comes out of the block, the Sealed power pistons are a low compresion dish piston foe trucks , but will give you a high compresion with this 3.580 stroke crank, just my .02 cents imfo I have researched,,, Bill

 

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