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Jungle's (Jim) Shackle Flip Kit Install and Review

66K views 195 replies 23 participants last post by  jungle 
#1 ·
Many of you have seen that Jim (Jungle) is making another type of shackle flip kit.

I will be installing one of these kits on one of my RC's for testing.

It will be installed on a 1978 Ramcharger poptop. 360 cid/np435/203 factory axles. The body of this truck has been removed and is being replaced with a different one at a later date.

Jim has also designed a replacement front spring rear bushing/housing that is bigger and more heavy duty. This will also be replaced on this truck.

Other mods happening at the same time but not all at once are 6" lift springs in the front and 2" lift springs in the rear (These came off a previous project) and installing a dana 60 in the rear. I will get measurements to the frame sitting factory, installing the shackle flip kit and getting measurements. Then removing the blocks and getting measurements. Then finally instlling the D60 rear, measuring.
I am going to try get take as many pics as I can of the install and in as much detail as possible. If you have questions during the install feel free to ask and I will answer your questions as I can.

Just to give you an idea of were I am starting





Factory springs and hangers



 
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#27 ·
.... jim likes to call them HD
 

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#30 ·
mopar_tim said:
i have got a bone to pick with jim ......

he did not take any pictures with any kind of scale next to the brackets ....... these things are freaking huge

when i got home and saw the 67 pound box sitting on the porch i new the day had just gotten better
Tim,
Sorry on the no reference scale in the pics. I could have even thrown in a stock one next to my units to show the comparison in size. There not much larger than stock but they are a lot BEEFIER or as I say HD!!
 
#33 ·
1ton4dr4x4 said:
I are ready know that from reading the other postings. What does the bushing mounts have to do with the shackle flip. I asked how much the shackle flip was goining to cost !!!!!!
If they are not for sale, I bet they do not have a price. A smart move on his part if they must be modified. Doesn't wanna say "oh $300" and then find out oops, change of plan.

We all wanna know, we're all interested, just gotta have patience.
 
#34 ·
jungle said:
OK guys after Chris ( warlock4x4 ) & Tim (Mopar_tim) get theirs installed & hopefully don't run into any curves we will be offering them for sale. Also, with the help of Chris & Tim, I want to make up a drill template so the install will go easier. The front HD frame bushings are available for sale right now. I have them listed in the parts for sale section. I plan on making up kits ahead of time so there is not a long lead time in getting the product out to a customer.
Gotta read the whole thing

joe s said:
We all wanna know, we're all interested, just gotta have patience.
That's right
 
#35 ·
warlock4x4 said:
That's right
As for you, hurry up, beat the crap out of them, and get them tested. {gloating} :p People are gettin impatient. ;D

Nah, I'm just a lil excited. The parts look similar to some high quality parts available for chevys, from another site. I had considered going that route, until I found Jim is doing this specifically for dodges.
 
#36 ·
Well joe S if you go back into jungles first posting on these in april he said he would have a price back then. So asking over 4 months later after they were first posted and talked about isnt patient, then excuss me. There were people asking back then how much and he said it would be a week , before he got a price. I guess this site is like the rest of them there are the clicks and the rest of us are supposed to be seen and not heard.
 
#37 ·
thats not it at all ..... jim is not doing this full time has got a job ..... and he has been spending a bunch of time re building and waiting on vendors himself .... he has been in contact with me at least once a week with up dates and asking for measurements and questions ....... custom made parts just dont happen over night

and he does not want to start selling the stuff before he knows it will actually fit ..... the frame i am putting my hangers on is 10 years older then the one he measured off of


and he is not done with the kit yet it still needs a drill template for the location of the holes ..... and we are going to work on some directions for people who just dont get it




so basically just wait some more time it will happen
 
#38 ·
As you can see these are in testing mode right now.  I had a conversation with Jim today about a couple of minor issues that need attention, nothing to get excited about but still needed some discussion.  He is trying to make sure they are going to work on pre and post 80's trucks/RC's.  That is one reason I am writing this review and basiclly a "how to" on the installation.  He's just getting the bugs worked out.

There is no special group you have to be part of here on RCC.  Just keep watching and you will see them for sale.
 
#39 ·
1ton4dr4x4 said:
Well joe S if you go back into jungles first posting on these in april he said he would have a price back then. So asking over 4 months later after they were first posted and talked about isnt patient, then excuss me. There were people asking back then how much and he said it would be a week , before he got a price. I guess this site is like the rest of them there are the clicks and the rest of us are supposed to be seen and not heard.
It did take a lot longer than I thought to get to were we are now. I had to find a supplier & I had to wait forever to get the DOM tubes made. Now I know I have to get my order in 2 to 3 weeks ahead of time so I get them when I need them. It always takes a week to a week & a half to get the steel parts cut out for me. Now I have the next group on order & then in to the weld stage. It also takes a lot of cash to get all this setup & running & yes I want to get it returning to me. BUT I won't offer them for sale until we get the bugs worked out. I also want to have a template for the new hole location to supply with the kits to make the install easier. So please be patient & I will offer up a quality product for sale but not before it's ready ;).

Ps I also hold down a day job & this is a side job to help out this Dodge family on RCC.
 
#40 ·
New update,



got cross member lower rivets cut off and the hanger set, but





I had to remove the cross member lower brace completely since the rivets were mushroomed in between the it and the frame. This is one of the items I have been talking to Jim about.

Also the emergency brake cable bracket will have to be addressed at a later time. But as you can see it is verry close to the hanger. There are a couple of ways I am thinking of to solve this dilema, from a spacer or redrilling the holes. This will be addressed later on.



Tomarrow we start drilling new holes, so far they all seem to clear the factory ones
 
#41 ·
anyway of drilling out the factory x-member lower piece so that the new mounting holes in the hangers will hold it in place ? or vs verse drill out the new hanger so it bolts in place of where the rivets used to be ?

i crawled under mine today and it looks like i am going to have the same issues
 
#42 ·
It looks like on the pre 80s you have to change out both rivets & on the post 80s you have to change one rivet. Some of the rivets I've ground the heads off & drove out with a punch & hammer. Some I had
to drill out or drill a relief hole & drive out with a punch & hammer.

Tim
The hole location on the per 80s is one of the items we need to record & adjust for future hangers. The post 80s emg brake bracket will need to be re drilled & lowered. It looks like the pre 80s because it mounts under the frame will need some kind of spacer to lower it a little to clear the front hanger.
 
#43 ·
My thought is to cut off the rivets on the lower part of the frame and bolt staight thru. The holes in the hanger would have to be reloated some to clear the rivets. As far as moving the holes to the location of the rivets, I think you would run into problems of them being in the exact location on every truck. From what I can tell the lower supports are identical and would line up on either side, but they are offset to the center line of the spring in opposite directions. If the holes in the hanger were moved to clear the rivets then problem solved but you would be moving one 1/4" and the other 1/2" toward the center.

Drivers side



Passanger side



I have sent this to Jim for him to look at also.

Today I start drilling
 
#44 ·
jungle said:
It looks like on the pre 80s you have to change out both rivets & on the post 80s you have to change one rivet. Some of the rivets I've ground the heads off & drove out with a punch & hammer. Some I had
to drill out or drill a relief hole & drive out with a punch & hammer.

Tim
The hole location on the per 80s is one of the items we need to record & adjust for future hangers. The post 80s emg brake bracket will need to be re drilled & lowered. It looks like the pre 80s because it mounts under the frame will need some kind of spacer to lower it a little to clear the front hanger.
How do you want the measurements to be taken. I would assume center line for left and right (facing). What about front to back (facing)?
 
#46 ·
how exactly did you locate the hangers ? did you just allign them so that the factory spring eye bolt hole  is in the factory "location" front to back  ..... basically just move the hanger down so it sits on the frame the right way ?


its hard to write out what i am trying to say  ???

 
#47 ·
I used the centerline of the factory spring bolt and the centerline of the new bolt cause my installation is on Dodge springs so it is in the factory location.
 
#49 ·
thats how i was going to do it also .... but then last night when trying to sleep i was thinking i might be able to do it by just measuring wheel base on both sides center of the hub to center of the hub .... just to make sure everything is square you could possibly even do diagonals, pending other stuff on the frame getting in the way
 
#50 ·
mopar_tim said:
thats how i was going to do it also .... but then last night when trying to sleep i was thinking i might be able to do it by just measuring wheel base on both sides center of the hub to center of the hub .... just to make sure everything is square you could possibly even do diagonals, pending other stuff on the frame getting in the way
That would be a great way to inspect the location of the axle. Does the pre 80s frame have the hole for the spring bolt or socket to go through? With the RC on jack stands You could mark a level line on C/L of that hole onto the frame. Then locate the C/L of the spring eye bolt of the new bracket on this line.
Jim
 
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