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Author Topic: Headlight relay How to is missing steps  (Read 3212 times)

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Offline loosewheelbob

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Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« on: December 28, 2011, 07:52:42 AM »
Not sure where to report this, but I figured this is a good guess.

The how to is missing steps one and two. http://ramchargercentral.com/articles/?sa=view;article=46
86 RC, 360, eddy intake and carb, long tube headers, flowmasters HEI ign. 4" Rough Country lift with 35" dunlop mt's.

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Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #1 on: January 1, 2012, 10:14:25 PM »
Hmm..  I guess it didn't survive the board software changeover a few years ago.  I just started coming around again and never knew it..

I wrote that nearly 10 years ago, so I don't really remember, but lets say this is what's missing.. I'm going to add details about using relay sockets for neatness.  I'm also going to modify Step 3 per a suggestion from moparmike72, and Step 8 per a suggestion from MoabION.  It won't let me edit it, so mods, please copy/paste this in where it belongs..

Parts list:

(1) Roll (20 feet) of red 10ga stranded wire (you can use two different colors if you wish)
(1) Package of small split loom tubing, or 1 roll of friction tape (NOT ELECTRICAL TAPE)
(2) HEAVY DUTY sockets for H4/9003 (they must have 14ga or larger wires)
(1) H4/9003 male pigtail adapter
(2) Bosch style, 4 or 5 pin, 30A/40A automotive relays
(2) 4 or 5 pin relay sockets (OPTIONAL but RECOMMENDED - MUST have minimum 12ga leads on pins 30 and 87)
(2) 30A inline fuse holders
(1) 6ga or 4ga copper cable lug
(3) BLUE ring terminals for 14ga wire, with #10 holes
(4) BLUE .250 FULLY INSULATED female spade terminals (ONLY IF RELAY SOCKETS ARE NOT USED)
(4) YELLOW .250 FULLY INSULATED female spade terminals (ONLY IF RELAY SOCKETS ARE NOT USED)
Zipties, glue-filled (AKA self-sealing) heat shrink tubing, solder, soldering gun (an iron will not be powerful enough)


Step 1 (mod - insert before first picture)

Cut two lengths of the #10 wire long enough to go from one headlight to the other (marking one of them if you don't use different colors).  Insert them into the split-loom tubing or wrap them in friction tape (this is the same tape that is used on the stock harness) then lay it into the truck. At the passenger side, install one of the new headlight sockets (connect the LOW and HIGH wires only), using solder and heat shrink tubing to seal the joint.  Install a ring terminal on the GROUND wire

DO NOT USE UNSEALED CRIMP CONNECTORS UNDER THE HOOD. THEY WILL CORRODE AND ROT - I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY!

The only crimp connectors suitable for under hood use are made by 3M, and have glue-filled heat shrink tubing already attached.  When you shrink the tubing, the glue weather-seals the connection so it doesn't rot.

(mod - insert attached picture H4.jpg)

Step 2  (mod - insert steps 2, 2A and 2B between 1st and 2nd picture)

At the driver's side, connect the other new headlight socket to the same colored wires as the other side.  Again, install a ring terminal on the ground wire.

STEP 2A (IF YOU ARE USING RELAY SOCKETS, SKIP TO STEP 2B)

Then connect a small (6") pigtail of 10ga wire to each pair, and solder/heatshrink the connection.  At the end of each pigtail, install one of the YELLOW spade terminals.  These will connect directly to the spades on the relay. Then, take two 6" pieces of 16ga wire, twist one end together, and install a ring terminal.  Install a BLUE spade terminal on the loose ends.  These will connect to the relay grounds. (NOW SKIP TO STEP 3)

STEP 2B (ONLY IF YOU ARE USING RELAY SOCKETS)

Then connect the new HIGH BEAM wires to the lead coming from pin 87 of the high beam relay, solder and heatshrink the connection.  Do the same thing for the new LOW BEAM wires.  Take the Pin 85 leads from both relay sockets, twist them together, and install a ring terminal.  This will be the relay grounds.

Step 3 (mod - replace original entirely)

Disconnect the old headlight plugs and plug in the new ones (Fill the socket terminals with bulb grease first, and if necessary, sand the bulb prongs to get rid of any corrosion.). Take the new MALE headlight pigtail, and cut off the ground lead (we are not using it).  

If you are using relay sockets, connect the HIGH BEAM lead (FACTORY RED) to the Pin 86 lead of the HIGH BEAM RELAY, and the LOW BEAM lead (FACTORY BLACK/RED) to Pin 86 of the LOW BEAM RELAY.   Solder and heat shrink your connections.

If you are not using relay sockets, attach BLUE spade terminals to the pigtail wires.

Plug the new male pigtail into the DRIVER'S factory headlight socket.


Step 5 (mod - replace original entirely)

Run two lengths of 10ga wire from the relay location to the positive battery terminal. (Ziptie or wrap them together for neatness) These will be your relay feeds.  If you are using relay sockets, attach one to the Pin 30 wire of each socket.  If you are NOT using sockets, install a YELLOW spade terminal on each wire.


Step 8 (mod - replace original entirely)

Cut the battery end of the 10ga leads to length.  Install a 10ga (30A) fuse holder on each lead, using solder and heat shrink to seal the connection.  From the other leads from the fuse holders strip 1" of insulation and firmly twist them together. Install the 6 or 4ga battery lug, using a hammer and punch to crimp it securely on the wires.  This crimp CAN be left unsoldered, but it still makes for a better connection if you do.  You will need to heat the lug with a torch though.

(The purpose behind the individual fuses is so that if a fuse blows at night, you will still have the other beam.)

If necessary, drill the hole out to 3/8".  Remove the nut from the positive clamp bolt, slip the lug on, and tighten the nut.
« Last Edit: January 1, 2012, 10:28:05 PM by TaZMaNiaK »
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline hoov100

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #2 on: January 2, 2012, 05:33:43 PM »
TBH, I think someone needs to simplify the relay install writeup and make a diagram for the installation of the relays using most of the factory harness and plugs.

Offline sls001

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #3 on: January 2, 2012, 05:38:42 PM »
TBH, I think someone needs to simplify the relay install writeup and make a diagram for the installation of the relays using most of the factory harness and plugs.

The problem is the factory wiring is to small and with the increased voltage the factory plugs tend to melt...The rewiring is not difficult and  makes a big difference in the light output.

Offline TNOleBlue85

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #4 on: January 2, 2012, 06:26:36 PM »
Nice writeup TaZ. I plan on doing this headlight upgrade to my truck in the spring. I have a couple of minor questions, first what size fuses to use?? Also couldn't you use  circuit breakers of the correct size instead of the fuses and would that be or not be better than the fuses.  Just asking? Thanks
1985 Dodge W-150...318 2 barrel, headers with Flowmaster exhaust...NP 435 granny 4 speed tranny...NP 208 transfer case...Dana 44 axle up front, Warn Lockouts...Dodge Corporate 9 1/4  rear axle, 3:23 gears

Offline sls001

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #5 on: January 2, 2012, 06:39:01 PM »
I followed this write-up from DTR that used circuit breakers before I found Taz's write up:

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Headlamp_Relays

Offline TNOleBlue85

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #6 on: January 2, 2012, 07:13:32 PM »
I followed this write-up from DTR that used circuit breakers before I found Taz's write up:

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Headlamp_Relays


Thanks sls001
1985 Dodge W-150...318 2 barrel, headers with Flowmaster exhaust...NP 435 granny 4 speed tranny...NP 208 transfer case...Dana 44 axle up front, Warn Lockouts...Dodge Corporate 9 1/4  rear axle, 3:23 gears

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #7 on: January 2, 2012, 07:30:03 PM »
By all means use circuit breakers if you want.  I just went the fuse route because inline fuses don't need to be mounted anywhere.

I would use a 15 or 20A device per leg.  I specified the 30A holders because they will have 10ga wire on them.
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline TNOleBlue85

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #8 on: January 2, 2012, 07:34:25 PM »
Thanks TaZ that's all i needed to know good job!!
1985 Dodge W-150...318 2 barrel, headers with Flowmaster exhaust...NP 435 granny 4 speed tranny...NP 208 transfer case...Dana 44 axle up front, Warn Lockouts...Dodge Corporate 9 1/4  rear axle, 3:23 gears

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #9 on: January 2, 2012, 07:50:13 PM »
TBH, I think someone needs to simplify the relay install writeup and make a diagram for the installation of the relays using most of the factory harness and plugs.

What sls said aside, trying to splice it into the factory harness will actually make it more complicated with very little appreciable gains.
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline hoov100

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #10 on: January 2, 2012, 11:13:29 PM »
What sls said aside, trying to splice it into the factory harness will actually make it more complicated with very little appreciable gains.

I did mine using the factory harness that runs across the radiator support, I used the hots coming out of the light switch to run the trigger for the relay and just connected the always hot side of the relay to a 30a fuse then battery and then the output of the relay to the lights. But I also put two relays to a light for high/low in case of relay/wiring/switch..etc failure so I don't lose both lights at once.

I noticed the lights being literally twice as bright compared to stock. (using 15y/o headlight bulbs) At the same time before I did relays I replaced the grounds with 12ga wire.

The problem is the factory wiring is to small and with the increased voltage the factory plugs tend to melt...The rewiring is not difficult and  makes a big difference in the light output.

The headlight wiring on my 87 RC was already 12ga for high beams and 14ga for low, don't really see a need to go bigger with how little amps they draw. :P

I'll probably make a completely new harness for it when I start adding more lights, but this was simpler considering I already have a bunch of auto electrical experience and was being lazy.
« Last Edit: January 2, 2012, 11:18:45 PM by hoov100 »

Offline Elwenil

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #11 on: January 2, 2012, 11:43:37 PM »
Mine are also just relayed with the stock wiring.  Relays are mounted at the battery and I just interrupted the circuit and used the wire from the switch to trip the relay and then the rest on down to the headlamps to supply full battery power to the lamps.  There was nothing wrong with my stock wiring and terminals so I went with the KISS principle.  On an older truck or one that the wiring has seen better days I wouldn't have used it but the mod definitely made a huge difference.  Even with the stock wiring it still takes out about half the terminals, two switches and is a much shorter path from the battery to the lamp, all of which is a worthy gain.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

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Offline mcritch

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #12 on: January 2, 2012, 11:49:16 PM »
i put new lamp plugs from www.headlightplugs.com in 2 different rigs and have been VERY happy with them.  they were also cheaper than the chinese stuff available at the big name parts stores down the street from my house (these are made in the good ol' USA!)

the wiring in my rigs wasn't in horrible shape, but if i was going to take the time to relay them i'd run the extra 6ft of wire.  when i did my CTD rig i actually bought one of these plugs with a 6 or 7 ft lead on it to reduce the number of splices i had to make. 

my review with pics here - http://ramchargercentral.com/product-reviews/headlightplugs-com/

my $0.02

matt
1987 Ramcharger LE 150 4x4 - 318/AVS & Edelbrock Performer intake/727/HEI/Borla Exhaust - 300k & still rolling
1993 D250 LE CTD/ASA Intake, 8' bed.  Stock....for now....

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #13 on: January 3, 2012, 01:33:48 AM »
I did mine using the factory harness that runs across the radiator support, I used the hots coming out of the light switch to run the trigger for the relay and just connected the always hot side of the relay to a 30a fuse then battery and then the output of the relay to the lights. But I also put two relays to a light for high/low in case of relay/wiring/switch..etc failure so I don't lose both lights at once.

I noticed the lights being literally twice as bright compared to stock. (using 15y/o headlight bulbs) At the same time before I did relays I replaced the grounds with 12ga wire.

Sooo you did pretty much the same thing, except you reused old wire (in both of my RCs, no matter how far I stripped under hood wiring back it never got to clean copper, it was always green/black and wouldn't take solder worth a damn) and did more work..  Whatever floats your boat..  ??? ???

Quote
The headlight wiring on my 87 RC was already 12ga for high beams and 14ga for low, don't really see a need to go bigger with how little amps they draw. :P

I'll probably make a completely new harness for it when I start adding more lights, but this was simpler considering I already have a bunch of auto electrical experience and was being lazy.

According to my diagrams it's 14ga and 16ga, with a piddly 18 or 20ga (depending on the year) ground running through a huge splice.  Not exactly ideal.  But w/e, if you want to do it half assed, that's of no concern to me.  I just think if you're going to do it, spend a couple extra dollars on new wire and do it right.   {noclue}
« Last Edit: January 3, 2012, 01:44:32 AM by TaZMaNiaK »
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline hoov100

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #14 on: January 3, 2012, 05:11:46 AM »
Sooo you did pretty much the same thing, except you reused old wire (in both of my RCs, no matter how far I stripped under hood wiring back it never got to clean copper, it was always green/black and wouldn't take solder worth a damn) and did more work..  Whatever floats your boat..  ??? ???

I guess I'm lucky, my RC's wiring is actually in very good shape with no corrosion, breaks of hard spots, as with the rest of the truck. But when the truck has lived all but one year of it's life in this dry ass desert it's common.

Quote
According to my diagrams it's 14ga and 16ga, with a piddly 18 or 20ga (depending on the year) ground running through a huge splice.  Not exactly ideal.  But w/e, if you want to do it half assed, that's of no concern to me.  I just think if you're going to do it, spend a couple extra dollars on new wire and do it right.   {noclue}

eyeballing it and comparing it to every strand of 12ga I have from different manufactures, it matches. A ground net was the first thing I ever did to my truck electrical wise and that included redoing the headlights. (amongst many other things)

Doing it right in a situation is a matter of judgment, your wiring harness was in need of replacing already, mine wasn't.  ::)


Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #15 on: January 3, 2012, 05:57:49 AM »


eyeballing it and comparing it to every strand of 12ga I have from different manufactures, it matches. A ground net was the first thing I ever did to my truck electrical wise and that included redoing the headlights. (amongst many other things)

Trust me, it's NOT 12ga.  In ANY truck from the factory. It was 14 for high, 16 for low, and 18 or 20 for ground.  Hell prior to 81, all three leads were 18ga.
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline Elwenil

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #16 on: January 3, 2012, 07:43:21 AM »
I don't see how using the stock harness, if in good condition, is half-assing it.  If the wiring is in good condition, and the terminals are fine, why waste time and money on extra wire and terminals?  The gauge of wire is plenty for the job and my voltage drop test proved that the wiring was in good condition and it's a lot less work.  All I had to fab was the lead from the battery with a fuse holder, a short ground for the relays and then splice into the stock harness on the fender and add two terminals.  That's it.  It took the load off the switches, eliminated the loss through the bulkhead and other connections and put more power to the headlamps.  They are stock headlamps so I fail to see the need to upgrade the wire to a larger gauge.  If I were running 100W Hellas or aircraft landing bulbs I could understand but to me it's unnecessary for stock sealed beam lamps.  Sure, larger gauge would be more efficient but where does it end?  Could I use 1/0 welding cable and say you half-assed yours because you used piddly 10 ga wire?

Again, not everyone will have nice wire on their old truck.  I guess Hoov and I were lucky.  My truck was a fleet service truck out of Texas most of it's life and most of the terminals had been sealed with grease at some point and so far all my terminals and sockets are in pristine condition.  The wiring insulation is also soft and flexible and the only hardened and black wire I have found was to my reverse lamp switch where it was left unplugged at some point, probably during a clutch replacement.  My point is that the relays themselves are a worthy mod to any vehicle.  Sure, you can do it better, just like I could have a brand new MPI Hemi in the engine compartment but my little 318 does the job just fine with my gearing.  Overkill has it's place but to say someone is half-assing it when they are still doing quality work and improving their truck is a bit much in my opinion.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

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Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #17 on: January 3, 2012, 08:14:24 AM »
Are you really going to start an argument over something as stupid as this?  Grow up.

And follow the quote in your own sig.  

Quote
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

I did it as something helpful to other members.  If you want to follow it, follow it.  If you want to do it your own way, do it your own way.  Don't insult me (as both you and hoov did) by saying it's a waste of time and materials to run everything new and ensure that if you want to upgrade you're not doing it over again.
« Last Edit: January 3, 2012, 08:23:16 AM by TaZMaNiaK »
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline Elwenil

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #18 on: January 3, 2012, 08:18:27 AM »
Start an argument?  I'm not the one with the harsh words pal so maybe you should take a step back and check your maturity level.

And the quote in my sig refers to doing quality work, not doing it in excess so I can be an elitist asshole on the Internet.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

Auribus Tenere Lupum

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #19 on: January 3, 2012, 08:26:01 AM »
Wow.  About $3 worth of excess.  That sure makes me an elitest asshole.  Just like not wanting to touch a Fram filter, right?  Like I said.  Grow up.
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline Elwenil

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #20 on: January 3, 2012, 12:43:06 PM »
Amazing.  You keep for me to grow up, even though you continually make childish comments.  Again I suggest you take a step back and reevaluate your position.  At this point all you are doing is acting like a foolish child in need of attention and ruining whatever credibility you may have.  Well I'm bowing out.  You can mark this as a "win" on your ego there kiddie.  I have no further use for you or this thread.
L.Clemons

1988 Ramcharger-Mil-Spec AW450 Project-318EFI-NP435 4 speed-NP205 Transfer Case-Front & Rear Dana 60s-Braden Wormdrive Front Winch
I do not like shortcuts.  Any job worth doing is worth doing right.

Auribus Tenere Lupum

Offline KThaxton

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #21 on: January 3, 2012, 01:35:37 PM »
Gentlemen please.... I don't allow two, good/helpful guys to fight, only good/helpful guys and a twits are allowed....so knock it off!  ;D
STOP PLATE TECTONICS!

You're absolutely correct, Kendall. My mistake  ;D

Offline hoov100

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #22 on: January 3, 2012, 06:34:11 PM »
Are you really going to start an argument over something as stupid as this?  Grow up.

And follow the quote in your own sig. 

I did it as something helpful to other members.  If you want to follow it, follow it.  If you want to do it your own way, do it your own way.  Don't insult me (as both you and hoov did) by saying it's a waste of time and materials to run everything new and ensure that if you want to upgrade you're not doing it over again.

I haven't insulted anyone on this board yet, I merely suggested someone simplify it and add a wiring diagram.

We are also just merely saying in our own situation, that replacing the harness was unnecessarily waste of materials at this time.

But I have no idea what you guys are blowing eachother over now, so I'll just sit back and watch.
 

Offline sls001

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #23 on: January 3, 2012, 06:51:16 PM »
I haven't insulted anyone on this board yet, I merely suggested someone simplify it and add a wiring diagram.
 

You could step up: simplify it and create the diagram then when done post it as a How-To if you wanted.

Offline Hybrid

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #24 on: January 4, 2012, 12:23:41 AM »
Someone already has stepped up and created a wiring diagram:



Shame we're arguing about the methods for relaying headlights in our tech forum...

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #25 on: January 4, 2012, 12:26:15 AM »
And a link to a thread with actual technical information on the subject instead of a couple of guys competing over who used their huge cranks more effectively to install a couple of relays:

http://ramchargercentral.com/technical-discussion/headlight-relay/15/

[also- a thread where George and I played nicely, which should count for extra points]

Offline hoov100

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #26 on: January 4, 2012, 01:16:24 AM »
Someone already has stepped up and created a wiring diagram:



Shame we're arguing about the methods for relaying headlights in our tech forum...


One thing I hate about that is how it uses a single relay for both lights.

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #27 on: January 4, 2012, 03:35:29 AM »
One thing I hate about that is how it uses a single relay for both lights.

There's really no reason to have each beam on each side have its own relay.  Yes, it keeps you from having a single point of failure, but in the unlikely event that a relay goes bad, you'll still have whatever beam didn't fail. 

And careful with that suggestion.  Certain people might brand you an elitist asshole, because using 4 relays could be interpreted as unnecessary excess. ::)
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
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Offline KThaxton

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #28 on: January 4, 2012, 09:44:55 AM »
I agree, one relay for high beam and one for low is plenty. It's still a huge improvement over the factory (no relay) wiring,
STOP PLATE TECTONICS!

You're absolutely correct, Kendall. My mistake  ;D

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #29 on: January 4, 2012, 10:14:44 AM »
Was the original how to updated?  Pat maybe you should make your post one as well?

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #30 on: January 4, 2012, 11:00:08 AM »
See Pat, we're just sucking you back in. It's all part of "the plan".
STOP PLATE TECTONICS!

You're absolutely correct, Kendall. My mistake  ;D

Offline TaZMaNiaK

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #31 on: January 4, 2012, 03:39:12 PM »
Was the original how to updated?  Pat maybe you should make your post one as well?

Ummm, nope..  I wrote it out in reply #1 of this clusterphluck, but nobody has inserted it into the how-to yet.
« Last Edit: January 4, 2012, 03:41:37 PM by TaZMaNiaK »
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #32 on: January 4, 2012, 03:55:52 PM »
Nice info guys & Thanks for sharing!!!!
Jim
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Offline Sam Simpson

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #33 on: January 6, 2012, 09:04:50 AM »
Ummm, nope..  I wrote it out in reply #1 of this clusterphluck, but nobody has inserted it into the how-to yet.

You should be able to edit it, as long as it still says you created it.

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #34 on: January 6, 2012, 03:12:53 PM »
I wrote that nearly 10 years ago, so I don't really remember, but lets say this is what's missing.. I'm going to add details about using relay sockets for neatness.  I'm also going to modify Step 3 per a suggestion from moparmike72, and Step 8 per a suggestion from MoabION.  It won't let me edit it, so mods, please copy/paste this in where it belongs..

Parts list:

(1) Roll (20 feet) of red 10ga stranded wire (you can use two different colors if you wish)
(1) Package of small split loom tubing, or 1 roll of friction tape (NOT ELECTRICAL TAPE)
(2) HEAVY DUTY sockets for H4/9003 (they must have 14ga or larger wires)
(1) H4/9003 male pigtail adapter
(2) Bosch style, 4 or 5 pin, 30A/40A automotive relays
(2) 4 or 5 pin relay sockets (OPTIONAL but RECOMMENDED - MUST have minimum 12ga leads on pins 30 and 87)
(2) 30A inline fuse holders
(1) 6ga or 4ga copper cable lug
(3) BLUE ring terminals for 14ga wire, with #10 holes
(4) BLUE .250 FULLY INSULATED female spade terminals (ONLY IF RELAY SOCKETS ARE NOT USED)
(4) YELLOW .250 FULLY INSULATED female spade terminals (ONLY IF RELAY SOCKETS ARE NOT USED)
Zipties, glue-filled (AKA self-sealing) heat shrink tubing, solder, soldering gun (an iron will not be powerful enough)

Step 1

Cut two lengths of the #10 wire long enough to go from one headlight to the other (marking one of them if you don't use different colors).  Insert them into the split-loom tubing or wrap them in friction tape (this is the same tape that is used on the stock harness) then lay it into the truck. At the passenger side, install one of the new headlight sockets (connect the LOW and HIGH wires only), using solder and heat shrink tubing to seal the joint.  Install a ring terminal on the GROUND wire

DO NOT USE UNSEALED CRIMP CONNECTORS UNDER THE HOOD. THEY WILL CORRODE AND ROT - I LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY!

The only crimp connectors suitable for under hood use are made by 3M, and have glue-filled heat shrink tubing already attached.  When you shrink the tubing, the glue weather-seals the connection so it doesn't rot.





Step 2

At the driver's side, connect the other new headlight socket to the same colored wires as the other side.  Again, install a ring terminal on the ground wire.

STEP 2A (IF YOU ARE USING RELAY SOCKETS, SKIP TO STEP 2B)

Then connect a small (6") pigtail of 10ga wire to each pair, and solder/heatshrink the connection.  At the end of each pigtail, install one of the YELLOW spade terminals.  These will connect directly to the spades on the relay. Then, take two 6" pieces of 16ga wire, twist one end together, and install a ring terminal.  Install a BLUE spade terminal on the loose ends.  These will connect to the relay grounds. (NOW SKIP TO STEP 3)

STEP 2B (ONLY IF YOU ARE USING RELAY SOCKETS)

Then connect the new HIGH BEAM wires to the lead coming from pin 87 of the high beam relay, solder and heatshrink the connection.  Do the same thing for the new LOW BEAM wires.  Take the Pin 85 leads from both relay sockets, twist them together, and install a ring terminal.  This will be the relay grounds.



Step 3

Disconnect the old headlight plugs and plug in the new ones (Fill the socket terminals with bulb grease first, and if necessary, sand the bulb prongs to get rid of any corrosion.). Take the new MALE headlight pigtail, and cut off the ground lead (we are not using it).  

If you are using relay sockets, connect the HIGH BEAM lead (FACTORY RED) to the Pin 86 lead of the HIGH BEAM RELAY, and the LOW BEAM lead (FACTORY BLACK/RED) to Pin 86 of the LOW BEAM RELAY.   Solder and heat shrink your connections.

If you are not using relay sockets, attach BLUE spade terminals to the pigtail wires.

Plug the new male pigtail into the DRIVER'S factory headlight socket.

Step 4.    Drill a 1/8" hole for each ground ring as shown.   Sand down to bare metal and screw the rings down with #10 screws.  The ring with 2 spades coming out is ground for the relays.  Also drill 1/8" mounting holes for the relays.





Step 5

Run two lengths of 10ga wire from the relay location to the positive battery terminal. (Ziptie or wrap them together for neatness) These will be your relay feeds.  If you are using relay sockets, attach one to the Pin 30 wire of each socket.  If you are NOT using sockets, install a YELLOW spade terminal on each wire.



Step 6.  Wire up the relays.  They get connected as follows:

High Beam Relay

Terminal 30: Battery

Terminal 87: BLUE headlight wires

Terminal 85: Ground

Terminal 86: RED wire from factory wiring

Low Beam Relay

Terminal 30: Battery

Terminal 87: WHITE headlight wires

Terminal 85: Ground

Terminal 86: BLACK/RED wire from factory wiring

Terminal 87a (if present) is not used in either relay.



Step 7.  Mount the relays using #10 screws and ziptie your wiring to make it look neat.





Step 8

Cut the battery end of the 10ga leads to length.  Install a 10ga (30A) fuse holder on each lead, using solder and heat shrink to seal the connection.  From the other leads from the fuse holders strip 1" of insulation and firmly twist them together. Install the 6 or 4ga battery lug, using a hammer and punch to crimp it securely on the wires.  This crimp CAN be left unsoldered, but it still makes for a better connection if you do.  You will need to heat the lug with a torch though.

(The purpose behind the individual fuses is so that if a fuse blows at night, you will still have the other beam.)

If necessary, drill the hole out to 3/8".  Remove the nut from the positive clamp bolt, slip the lug on, and tighten the nut.



That's it!  Turn on the headlights and flip between high and low to make sure they all work.  Go for a drive at night and see how much brighter the lights are!  I also highly recommend the Sylvania X-tra Vision or SilverStar bulbs next time you have to replace.  I use the X-tra Vision and they are a LOT whiter than regular halogens.  They also don't give you that "black hole" 10 ft in front of you like every other bulb does.  I haven't seen the SilverStars yet, but they are supposed to be even better.
« Last Edit: January 6, 2012, 04:20:15 PM by Sam Simpson »
1985 Ramcharger - 360 4BBL, NP435/NP208, D44/9.25" ĪRIPĪ
1989 Ramcharger - 318 TBI, 727/NP241, D44/9.25", K&N,  MSD 6A ignition, Blaster HVC II coil, Trans-Go shift kit  ĪRIPĪ
2000 Durango - 4.7L, 45RFE/NV242, SLT+ package

Offline Sam Simpson

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #35 on: January 6, 2012, 04:11:50 PM »
Well crap that sucks.  It is set to let the owner edit.  Let me see what else I can find.

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Re: Headlight relay How to is missing steps
« Reply #36 on: January 6, 2012, 04:26:33 PM »
I edited it, I replaced your last post with what I replaced it with.  If you want any further changes, just edit that (the post above) and I can move it over. 

 

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