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Projects / Re: '75 W300 - Ol' Blue
« Last post by GoMopar440 on Yesterday at 11:48:58 PM »
I'm not worried about the work to refresh the cylinders, or the cost of new rings. It's already coming apart this far, so it doesn't make sense to me NOT to go ahead and do all those things now.

I haven't rebuilt a ton of 440's, but I have done a few of 'em before. There not really much different than most other engines as long as you have a factory service manual to follow (I do) when you tear into it. ;)
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Ok, time for a little update.

Truck came back to town, headed to the exhaust shop that did the system. Figured we'd do a 2.25" Y instead of 2". Upon inspection, my memory failed apparently, already had 2.25" when we built the system. Cool, ok.

Then...my friend at the shop mentioned it's running SUPER lean, burned off the aluminized coating, cat was purple. Crap, that ain't right. Strange as well, since the O2 was switching and reporting normal conditions. That DOES explain the stumble though, lean, exactly what it felt like. I also noted way back that the Bosch O2 ran better, more grunt than the stock one that's in there now, but I ran the stock figuring it would be a better match. Apparently not. Confirmed lean, inside of the manifold was almost all white, except a couple spots right by the outlet that were a touch black. Definitely tells me lean.

Last but not least, we moved the O2 back up about 2" from the manifold outlet, similar to the OE setup in the outlet.

Got about 100 miles on it since moving the O2, 200 miles on this ECU learn. Stumble was there prior to moving the O2, haven't been able to get it to do it on the drive back from the exhaust shop or today while out running around. Kinda looks like that may have been the issue all along.

I'm curious to see how the power does on the Bosch sensor but I suspect it'll bump up a little. I'll also check some pipe temps with that sensor, already have a baseline set of temps in a few places while running on the stock sensor.

All in all it's actually running pretty darn well. New cam is happy, runs WAY smoother than it used to with the old cam and the retarded cam timing.

Should have the truck in town a few more days, gonna do an oil change and swap O2 tomorrow, see how it does. Mileage already is improved as well, looks like around 11mpg right now, was down in the singles with the old cam.
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Diesel Talk / Re: First cummins, lots of questions
« Last post by Mad Max on Yesterday at 11:33:03 PM »

PS Matt helped me install the OD button in the 2nd gen lever and it seems to work!
Although having the TPS still installed it shifts on it's own. If the button is functional, can the TPS be removed now and this means no computer controlling OD?

so you installed an actual 2nd gen shifter level with the OD button at the tip and spliced the wire into the orange/white wire at the back of the 1st gen button switch in the dash?  If so then you essentially now have two available buttons to control the OD, but all of the factory sensors and TPS etc are still part of that functionality.

The only way to completely eliminate all of the 1st gen sensors and TPS etc from having any effect on the OD is to isolate the ground wire into the trans plug and wire it to a toggle switch, which I've done using the 2nd Gen shifter lever but by replacing the factory button at the tip with a standard rocker switch with one end wired into the ground wire at the OD plug and the other to a ground under the dash.  That way the OD will only ever engage when the rocker switch is 'on' (ground circuit closed).

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Open Discussions / Re: Random picture thread
« Last post by KurtfromLaQuinta on Yesterday at 11:16:35 PM »
Isn't this awesome?...

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Open Discussions / Re: So I bought a '78 W200.
« Last post by 712edf on Yesterday at 10:45:27 PM »
Around here it's all about mud or rockcrawling (I'm not including the 85% who drive jacked up mallcrawlers).

When I was getting a state inspection done on my W600 one of the "techs" commented about how I probably couldn't do crap in the mud. I replied "It's not made for that you idiot, but throw down a foot or more of snow or a few inches of ice (or both) & I'll be the ONLY guy in town not walking."

Bucky
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Diesel Talk / Re: First cummins, lots of questions
« Last post by 4x4KLOWN on Yesterday at 09:44:46 PM »
Hey Guys,

So today I took the rear driver side axle seal out to replace the leak I've had for a while now.
After messing with the stupid adjustment screw/gear thing and losing most of the teeth (no luck pushing the lever while turning) I forced the drum/hub off with screwdrivers and pulling power. Ended up taking one of the shoes off and bending one of the holding pin/hook things.
Anyway, got it off and punched out the studs, looking at the drums it's in rough shape anyway. Also the breaks are looking a bit crusty now. I have all the parts so I figure its time to replace.
The inner bearing looks a little bent so I went to Napa to get more. They don't carry the Timken brand that was in there so I got the type they found on the computer. It didn't look right but I got them anyway and will return. Getting them home I confirmed their not right, no taper, smaller diameter and huge rollers.
I went to Carquest and they should have the Timken part number ones I asked for tomorrow.

I'm just wondering what way the seal goes in? I youtubed it and one guy was guessing. Both my manuals don't say anything about what direction they go in. The seal that came out has a kind of spring looking side and a rubber lip side. The new seals don't have this spring, but one side has more "lip" then the other.
Anyone know how it goes? I don't want to get it wrong and have to open all that up again it's a pain in the arse!

Thanks amigos!

PS Matt helped me install the OD button in the 2nd gen lever and it seems to work!
Although having the TPS still installed it shifts on it's own. If the button is functional, can the TPS be removed now and this means no computer controlling OD?
 
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Open Discussions / Re: So I bought a '78 W200.
« Last post by Creeper on Yesterday at 09:43:47 PM »
If I ever manage to find a truck that the trans/t-case is for sale I'll probably try to buy both as one unit. I wouldn't want to buy separate unless I absolutely had to. This will all be awhile from now, though.
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Open Discussions / Re: So I bought a '78 W200.
« Last post by Elwenil on Yesterday at 09:22:12 PM »
The NP205 will not bolt in place of the NP203.  The spline is the same, but it's a different bolt pattern and shaft length.  You would need a 4WD transmission from an '80 and up model with the common 23 spline output.  Keep in mind when buying a used NP205 that you will need to get the splined coupler with it that mates the male output of the transmission to the male input of the NP205.

$800 for a D60 front is not a terrible price but probably more than I would want to pay.  Around here they go for a bit more and I probably wouldn't let mine go for less than $1,200.
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Open Discussions / Re: So I bought a '78 W200.
« Last post by Creeper on Yesterday at 09:15:44 PM »
I didn't know the D60 trucks had mated NP205s! I thought they were all NP208s! That makes my life a lot easier! Think that one of the mated NP205s would bolt where my NP203 is, or would I need a new trans? The D60 trucks are hard to find and the only one around here that's for parts the guy wont sell the drivetrain, just everything around it, and he wants $800 just for the front axle!  :o

That RC has been through the ringer, no doubt. Pretty sure it was the guys play truck, he has a lot of really nice trucks around there, or ones that were nice and fell into disrepair. It's like a little Mopar treasure trove, with a few VW trikes thrown in. My first words when I saw it were "OH DUDE A '70S RC...oh...this ain't....wow that's rusty."
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Open Discussions / Re: So I bought a '78 W200.
« Last post by Guac-n-Lime on Yesterday at 09:10:29 PM »
That looks like a bad (new Zinc crap) penny.
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