hey az-td thanks for the hints. just checked out your crewcab build. i love it.  i have to ask is it hard to take the fenders off? i got the bolts around the core supprot off and the one next to teh cowl and the one in the door area. but cant find any more


well i got her started for the last time before she goes under the knife for surgery.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbuFJzyW32U

Taking the fenders off is no big deal...there are some on the bottom of the core support and on the bottom of the truck near the rocker panel, they might be under a few inches of mud...but they are there.

If i remember correctly it always seemed easier to unbolt the inner fender first before taking it all off.

-Nick

The springs have a heaver capacity for the CTD! Do I see a lift also .

I'm pretty sure a Cummins would bottom out your current springs. I'd go for 3/4 ton leaf springs, those will comfortably take the weight of the Cummins.

Glad to see you've made the first few steps towards the towards losing them spark plugs. Maybe I'll be able to follow suit a couple years down the road.

ya im looking foward to the end product as well. and i might get there if it ever stops raining here lol.

was cusin looking for specs and info on my eninge and found this on cummins forum

been doin some reading and found this on cumminsforum.com thought you guys might find it interesting.

For 94-95 manual cummins

Compression Ratio: 17.5:1
Power: 175 bhp @ 2500 rpm
Torque: 420 lb-ft @ 1500 rpm
BHP/Liter: 29.7
Max. Engine Speed (Governed Speed*) : 2700 rpm
Max. No Load High Idle Engine Speed: 3000 RPM

For 94-95 automatic cummins

Compression Ratio: 17.5:1
Power: 160 bhp @ 2500 rpm
Torque: 400 lb-ft @ 1500 rpm
BHP/Liter: 27.1
Max. Engine Speed (Governed Speed*) : 2700 rpm
Max. No Load High Idle Engine Speed: 3000 RPM

1994/1995 12 Valve General Engine Specifications

Engine: 5.9-Liter, OHV, Diesel Six-Cylinder
Type & Description: Six cylinder, in line, liquid cooled, turbocharged, intercooled
Displacement: 359 cu. in. (5.9 L)
Bore x Stroke: 4.02 x 4.72 (102.1 x 119.9)
Valve System: OHV, 12 valves, solid sliding tappet lifter/followers
Valve Adjustment (engine cold)
Intake = 0.010" Exhaust = 0.020"
Adjustment interval - 24,000 miles
Fuel Injection: Bosch P7100 High-pressure direct injection, mechanical
Fuel Pressure: 18-24 psi at idle, 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load.
Max Fuel Pressure drop accross filter: 5 psi
Max allowable fuel return line restriction : 20.4" Hg
Maximum Inlet Restriction to fuel transfer pump: 4" Hg
Construction: Cast iron block & head
Fuel Requirement: Diesel #1 or #2
Oil Capacity 1994: 10 qt. (9.5 L) with filter
11 quarts using Cummins p/n 3928740 or Dodge p/n 4796874 dipstick
11 qts by marking the dipstick 1 3/16" above the "ADD" mark
Oil Capacity 1995: 11 qt. (10.4 L) with filter
Oil Flow Rate: 20 GPM
Minimum Oil Pressure @ Idle: 10 psi
Minimum Oil Pressure @ Rated: 30 psi
Regulated Oil Pressure: 65 psi
Oil Filter Bypass Diff. Pressure: 20 psi
Coolant Capacity: 24 qt. (22.7 L)
Emission Controls: Engine modifications, oxidation catalyst (after 1/1/94)
Alternator: 120 A
Battery: Maintenance-free, dual 750 CCA


Ram Diesel Turbocharger Specifications

1994 160, 175 HP 15-18 psi Holset WH1C 12 sq cm turbine housing
1995 160, 175, 180 HP 15-18 psi Holset HX35W 12 sq cm turbine housing

Pyro Probe Location l Max Temp At Rated Power l

ehaust manifold = 1250 Degrees F

exhaust elbow = 950 Degrees F

Diesel no 2 minimum cetane rating
40 for temp above 32 degrees F
45 for temp below 32 degrees F
45 with prolonged heavy loads (towing, max GVWR, etc)
Acceptable emergency alternative fuels for 1994 & later 12 Valve trucks:
#1 and #2 Diesel
1K and 2K Kerosene
Jet -A, Jet A-1, JP-5, JP-8
NOT Acceptable
Jet-B, JP-4, Cite

At least it's stopped snowing .

well thanks to the help of 2 of my friends i got the engine out today.
somethings missing

were did it go?

oh right

cool cant have to many cummins ramchargers lol.

im trying to do it bolt in style as much as possible. just to show people how easy it can be. but its being dificult cause i cant seem to find a set of first gen block mounts

he is probably talking about the ones that bolt to the block ..... seems like then are golden sometimes doesn't it ..... i saw a set go on ebay for like 250 bucks one time

i got the set i have got for like 50 bucks .... then i got another set for 2200 .... had a truck attached to them though

ya it dose. but i found a set the over on cumminsforum.com. 80 bucks i get the part that bolts to the block the intermediate piece and the rubber mount. need all three. as for the core supprot i think im going to just find a standard rad support and mod it. sawzall and a hole saw.
then it just comes down to finding springs that will hold the weight for cheap. think i am gona have to make a bastard pack or something

Hey, I enjoyed reading your progress to date. Thanks for the pm today. Many of the measurements you need for the core mods are in pics on my cummins ramcharger blog  cumminsramcharger.blogspot.com, but it is for a 1st gen intercooler. I am in the the process of modding a 1977 core for a 2nd gen dodge intercooler for my crewcab.

Keep up the work. Cummins are cool. you will have no regrets .

yeah your going to need to get that a little farther back ... i think the rear rocker cover is about an inch from the firewall on mine


check my build you will see where you have to mount the new motor mounts on the stock x-member and it will set it up in just the right spot

well after looking at mopar tim project i decided not to go the cut and weld rout. i got a 3 inch body lift from 4wheelparts for 119. why 3 inch you say? it was 70 bucks cheaper then the 2 inch lol





thanks man   pm sent

so i found some one finally who will reply to my emails about the block mounts i kneed and they should be here Friday.

so i decided to pull the timing cover to check the status of my killer dowel pin. good news it hasnt killed any thing yet


and while i was at it i wanted to attempt to check the timing.



im not shure what it means but i hope its good lol.

here is what it all looks like

right on - looking good.  I didn't realize you were using 2nd gen engine mounts, but that is probably what is causing the clearance issues.  The 1st gen mounts will put the engine assy squarely in the proper place.  And for sure the core support will need to be swapped - with the tranny cooler in place mine is about 1 inch away from the back side of the grille - it's pretty 'tight'.

- Sam

 

Could it be that the mounts need to be swapped from one side to the other? That might move it back maybe 1.5 inches. Or, would the power steering pump be in the way? How does the tranny adapter line up with the crossmember?
I remember everything being a tight fit when I removed the CTD from the doner truck.

hmm i wonder if thats why it leans to the driver side a little. and the trans is alot closer to the drivers side of the trans tunnel then the pass side.

well i rearranged the motor mounts today. i had the block mount on the drivers side upside down. and the parts that hold the motor mount were on the wrong side. so now it sits right up agents the fire wall like it should



i remember why i had the mount upside down. it was hitting agents the power steering line. so i had to take the power steering and vacuum pump off to get the mount back on


also noticed this grove where the timing cover seal rides



also special tanks to mad max and j10mike for all the help. if it wern't for you guys i would still be wondering where i went wrong

hey no worries mate. its all a learning process and at the moment all i have is time.
ya its a good thing you didn't throw them out. lol i almost spent 80 bucks for the same things.

any way any of you guys who done this already got any good ideas how to do the power steering lines so they don't interfere with the mount

...me too.  I'll be takin' notes  - hey can you do that in like the next couple months so I can copy it before we go to Moab in late Sept? 

glad ya got it set properly. sorry i talked ya into putting em on bass ackwards.  :S its lookin better. now come fix my RC

what exactly does the kit do for you ? i have not had my case apart and i have a feeling this is the kind of stuff i might find

well installed the tab today.


it looks like im gona have to lower the sway bar mounts a bit cause its hitting the oil pan


trans tunnel clearance


one of the engine cross member and oil pan


these 2 are of the front diff and axle tube and the oil pan



and here is some of the transmission mount alignment to the facotry 79 trans cross member location and one of the 94 trans side mount plate



all in all i have to say it seems like this was meant to happen. every just fits perfect. haven't had to fab any thing yet. i love Lego's..... i mean mopar

oh lol. ya that kit was 90 bucks. didnt buy it yet.  but it was basicly a ring that fit snugly over the crank and a new seal to fit the ring.