Go with the 4.56s, and if you're revving too high for your liking, buy a little bigger tire size next time you need new rubber.

What's the compression ratio on that motor?  What pistons did you use?  Something dosen't seem right with those dyno numbers.  It would probably like 32-35 degrees total timing.  You could make alot better power numbers than those without switching heads or going with a roller cam.  Try a Comp XE 262 or XE 268.  Even with a hotter cam, that 440 will make plenty of torque. 

The doubler setup with the 203/205 ends up being a hair shorter than the stock 203 setup, for those guys who are avoiding the doubler because of excessive drivetrain length...

That's been my goal, while building my current motor too. I would like to build as much hp and torque as possible, with a smooth idle engine. I'm curious to see how the combination turns out.

You use to be able to get 4.27s for the D44 I don't know if you can get them for the D60 or D70. Old jeep stuff

The carrier split for the 60 is at 4:10 so it wouldn't matter.

I have 4.10's currantly, they were great when I had my 33's. Since putting on the 35's I feel I've lost to much power to the ground. I'm putting in 4.56's when I get my lockers.

I wouldnt be "too worried" about the Limited Slip Acting front in the snow.

I'm running Front & Rear Limited Slip Units (really tight monsters) with 4.65's in my Daily Driver/Plow Rig and it does great (except when the bed is empty).  I've been running it in 4-Hi constantly on the highway,in the snow and town driving, lately i've been too lazy to shift it into 2-Hi. (almost no change in gas mileage, turning radius is suffering a little bit.)

Likes to bark when i pull into Gas Stations and Parking Spaces, In the snow the only diffrence i've noticed is that it's a little touchy getting used to.  You can also feel it grabbing on occasion when you downshift/upshift in a turn

Sam, when I had 35's and 4.10's in my RC (stock 440 and only about 5000 lbs) it got around great.  I thought it was a nice daily driver combo.  I didn't like it much on the rocks, but it wasn't bad.

However, in my '75 W200 with a good 440, 4.10 gears, 35" tires and weighing about 6000 lbs I wanted more.  It was fine for empty driving, but I was towing 7000+ lb trailers regularly and it needed a lower gear, I almost swapped in 4.56 gears, I even bought the carriers.  Remember, this truck came stock with 4.10 gears and roughly 32" tires.  The 35's needed 4.56's to get close to stock highway RPM's.  I eventually just swapped the truck back to 33's.  This limited my "cruising" speed to about 65 mph, but I was ok with that.  35's and 4.56's would have done the same.



BTW, I know it's not my money, but have you considered a 518 and 4.56's or 4.88's?

I have no personal experience with these but STAK 3 speeds have one with an available OD in the t-case.

http://www.stak4x4.com/3speed.htm

You could run deep axle gears, have a more than 4 to 1 low range and an OD for the highway.

It looks like it is a married application only though.

the term "twin stick" refers to when you grind the 205's range rail down to achieve 3 range options.

1st would be front wheel drive only hi&lo
2nd would be rear wheel drive only hi&lo
3rd would work as normal with both front and rear hi&lo

so if you don't "twin stick" the 205 you'll have it's normal operation with one stick.  the 203 will have it's own stick for hi,n,&lo. you'll have two sticks but not "twin" if the 205 were "twin" you would have three sticks counting the 203.

http://medusa.ih8mud.com/NP205/Doubler.html
http://coloradok5.com/jkwtwinstickreview.shtml
http://www.offroad-tech.com/tech/twinstick205/

http://jbfab.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=Shifters

ever seen an NP200 divorced case like the pre 1970 Dodges came with? they were twin sticked from the getgo.

why not use PATC's or JVX's 440 to 518 adapter plate?
http://jvxracing.com/jvxcatalog.pdf
J V X Performance Transmission
1458 Chelsea Ave, Memphis, TN 38108
Phone: (901) 274-7248

Thanks for the links fellas- good info there. 

Alright...alright, let's talk about 38's  .  I'm entertaining the idea of taller tires, and here's why:

Yesterday I pulled the tranny mount bracket to shorten it a bit to reduce the shaft angle between the tranny and t-case (both divorced), and realized that swapping in a doubler means removing the current tranny crossmember and replaceing it with the 203 version...but...the leading arms for the front 4-link mounts up to the current crossmember as is...so swapping to a 203 will also mean re-engineering the 4-link mounts....and I'm not so sure I want to go 'there'.
On top of that....y'all have got me thinking about taller and wider tires (y'all are a bad-er I mean great influence... ).

So, here's the evil plan brewing in my head.  I'm thinking about selling the full set of 35" Nitto's I have now...and picking up a set of 38 x 14.5's...and going with either 4.56's or 4.88's.  4.88's with a 38" (37" compressed) tire will give me a very happy 3000 rpm at 70 mph...and that ain't bad.

Now before everyone says 'way to go!'  I have to re-emphasize this truck needs to retain above average street manners  ...and I need to know how 'streetable' 38's really are.  If I do this I will most likely get a set of Nitto Mud Grapplers, 38 x 14.5, and put them on a set of 10" aluminum rims.  I'll have to re-engineer the jet pak for the wider tire but oh well  .

While I'm at it, if someone is looking for two sets of very fresh Nitto 35 x 12.5's on 8-bolt wheels...I know a guy.  They've only seen Moab once and they loved it .  I have eight tires/wheels:  set of 4 + spare for the truck; set of 2 + spare for the trailer, 8 total.

Alright, lemme hear it!  .

- M2

One guy at the 4x shop up here had 38" Mud Grapplers on his 2005 Super Duty, he HATED them on the street, sold them as soon as he could and he went to 38" Toyo MT's and likes them.

The bigger the Mud Grappler the bigger the tread paddle so the more noise and vibration.

I think there are a lot better tires for street/offroad use than Mud Grappler.

If you do go for 4.88's I would seriously consider a tire in the 39"-42" range.
The 4.88's and radial 38's measure smaller than my bias 38.5 SX's I had and 3000 rpm all the way to Moab was doable, but it sucks the gas.

4.88's and 40" MTR's!  don't be a puss and run those designer tires with cartoon tread patterns.

and your opinion is based on what?  the 40" set i had rode great, wore even, balanced easy enough, and fairly quite for a MT. only complaint i would say i had is that you have to let almost all the air out of em to get them to hook in sand and silt. it's a decent trade i think for their thick sidewall, having it really helps cornering when your rig is 6000 pounds plus.

weight of the vehicle along with compound have alot to do with how a tire performes imo. lighter rigs tend to do better with a softer tire.

super swamper SSR for all around performance or the super swamper SX, i love the SX but the biggest they make is a 38.5.

You know you want em...   

Don't you mean if it's good in mud it sucks on packed snow, and ice? mud tires seem to do pretty good in deep snow!

Hard to say for sure - not sure which way I want to go.  On one hand, Hawgs are an old school tire wheras all the new stuff is the new school (SSRs, TSLs, TrXus, AT's).  Interestingly enough, the SSRs and TSLs have the same basic tread pattern as the Hawgs, the difference looking like the side lugs are separated out. 
The Hawgs are designed for moving material, and that includes snow.  If I did Hawgs I'd sipe the tread to make them more grip on the ice...and I can't imagine they wouldn't work well on rock and dirt especially at 5 psi with 6800 lbs sitting on them. 
What I do like is they make Hawgs in a Radial and with the center tread going all the way around they'd be good on the street, and they're cheaper than most others of the same size.  Any big tire is going to make a bit of noise, and if I can hear it over the engine, well at least they're not boggers.
Looking at the tread pattern it's hard not to believe they wouldn't grip mean as hell on the rocks.

Dunno, but I'm thinkin' 15.5" wide Hawgs would work pretty derned well with the weight I have pressing on them - they'd look bitchin' too. 

Ha haa - not at all - you guys know me well enough that I'll beat up a subject to death and entertain ideas that I may not be inclined to do just to hear all sides of a discussion and get the best info so I can make the best decision.  It's interesting that the single 'con' about the big tires (38's, etc) that keeps coming up is street manners and overall drivability.  That said I should probably keep my original plan of running my good ole 35's, upping to 4.10's, and swapping in a doubler.  That is the best (and by far the cheapest) scenario, at least for the short term (couple years).  I think I'll just keep it all simple, do a gear swap, and wheel for a couple years and see how it all goes.  I don't really even need to do the doubler.  I should just do 4.10's, do Moab, Spring Creek, Tin Cup etc, and after a while I'll reevaluate and go from there.
Yup - I like the sound of that.

Kendal is correct about the mud tires not being up to the task in regular snow driving. As he said unless the snow is deep and heavy the mud tires don't do that well. The biggest downfall of mud tires around town or in highway driving is the snow is generally not deep enough to make them work well. Max mentioned siping it does help, but the rubber compounds they build them out of is designed to put up with off road abuse and when it gets below 32 degrees they get real stiff . I sell allot of winter only snow tires and if you use them off road the rubber compound just wont hold up to very much abuse.  Most At's are designed with a better rubber compound for more all around uses and more factory sipes and bitting edges and that makes them better suited out of the gate. I have friends that wont run At's and some wont run muds, in tires you always have pros and cons their is just no getting around that fact. Joe

X2, kinda hard to beat that traction
Although my next vote is for hawgs
Have you considered the baja claws?  They make radial 38's.  I love mine.

thats quite the lunar landing gear dont look like it would be much for hwy travel 

thems some nice shoes 

I'm not a big fan of the claws.  I used to wheel with a guy that swore they were the greatest tire in the world, but I could go farther in the mud than him with my toyo open country AT's just because the claws like to dig while the AT's stayed on top.  Sam this is just my opinion, but I'd stay with a fairly mild offroad tire, like the Nitto's.  I love mine.  They do just fine in the mud/snow/rocks/dirt/ice/whatever.  It's a proven fact that you aren't going to get the tread life out of a mud tire like you will with an AT also.  I've heard good things about these tires though.

I'd say go 4.88's with the Nacho.

You can run a Stock D300 Towtruck (roughly 8,500lbs empty) with D70 - 4.88 at highway speeds all day with or without a truck on the wrecker boom and it'll never complain and that's with stock tires (the 16" Duallys are like 31's or 32's i think).  My dad's D300 Wrecker still has the original 318, 435 , D70 - 4.88 and the odometer has rolled over twice.   Towbed was swapped out for a Dumpbed but the power plant and drivetrain is still the same.

I'm going with a similar combo in my W300 Towtruck Project because i knew it was reliable and had the chance to run that D300 myself, Got tons of Low End Grunt and still capable of running highways, RPM's might be a bit higher but i never really noticed since it was way inside a nice cruising range