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Topic: 74 rc 440 build (Progress Pics!)  (Read 11309 times)
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« Reply #100 on: March 9, 2010, 05:49:36 PM »

Yeah Last summer I kind of hurt my 82rc at Silver Lake, I don't want the same thing to happen to this one. I don't know if this will help, but it certainly is stronger than before at the yokes.

Look at the pics of the 82, you can see the tires are pointing awayfrom each other, and tilted inward at the top.
I hope this helps.


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« Reply #101 on: March 9, 2010, 05:59:16 PM »

Nice job on the axle!!!
Did you get a chance to send the templates out yet?
Thanks, JIm
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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
1988 RC.440,4" lift,727 
BIG BLOCKS RULE !!!!!!!
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« Reply #102 on: March 10, 2010, 08:49:11 AM »

One box went monday, the other should go today.
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« Reply #103 on: March 10, 2010, 09:18:42 AM »

Well I noticed that the drivers side rear sat about 1" lower than the passenger side. after a closer look this is what I found. a cracked leaf. (pic 1&2)

I took the springs to a local spring shop the guy said he could just replace the broken leafs.
He also said that it looks like someone added the leaf that was cracked(pic 3). It just didn't look original.
But he said that back then the auto manufactures would change spring configurations on vehicles from year to year, and mid year a lot.

So he put a new leaf in both sides and only charged me $100.00


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« Reply #104 on: March 10, 2010, 09:23:23 PM »

Doesn't sound like a bad price for the leaf work.
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« Reply #105 on: March 11, 2010, 04:26:45 AM »

One box arrived last night & I haven't dug into it yet. Thanks again for sending them back so I can compare them with other years. Good thing you found the cracked spring now in stead of after the RC was done.
I love the silver hangers on the black frame!!!!!
Thanks, Jim
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« Reply #106 on: March 11, 2010, 09:25:55 AM »

Yeah I thought that $100.00 was a lot better than new springs

OK here some more pics of the progress.

In the third pic is the yoke for the front axle. I noticed that the washer for the nut is tapered. how does that work?
Also I read in the manual that I was supposed to record the torque value before I removed the nut which I didn't. So what torque do you guys think I should set it at.

Final pic is of an RC that I saw last summer at Silver Lake. Kind of the look I am going for. a "Stock" look.


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« Reply #107 on: March 11, 2010, 12:03:35 PM »

I am assembling the front axle, and I don't know what to torque the yoke nut to.
Also the washer for the nut is tapered like a ski slope when viewed from the edge. How does that work?

I am installing the rear seals for the hubs, and I don't know how far to install them. See pic of rear of housing. Do I make them flush with the rear of the housing.

It has been about 12 years since I have done an early RC axle so my memory is kind of foggy.

Also When I assemble the hub do I assemble like the final picture and install it all at once? Or do I install the cone into the knuckle first?


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« Reply #108 on: March 11, 2010, 12:19:13 PM »

Yoke washer


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« Reply #109 on: March 11, 2010, 12:25:04 PM »

I've never seen a tapered yoke washer before. I wonder if some one didn't change it out before with a non OEM style.
Jim
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« Reply #110 on: March 11, 2010, 12:34:51 PM »

I don't know either. I haven't seen this before.
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« Reply #111 on: March 11, 2010, 05:49:48 PM »

The torque spec for a D44 pinion yoke out of my 1988 FSM is 200-220 Ft Lbs. I don't think I would re use that washer. I would also use a Loctite on the threads when you put the nut back on.
Jim
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« Reply #112 on: March 20, 2010, 09:08:26 AM »

OK more progress. I have been painting small parts for a couple of weeks, and I finally got to the point where i can start assembling.

These pics are of the front axle going together. It has been soo long since I did one of these I had to make a couple of attempts, but in the end everything went together.


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« Reply #113 on: March 20, 2010, 09:17:53 AM »

Had a problem with the drag link hitting the reinforcement bracket on the axle. Had to modify the bracket so the drag link could swing.


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« Reply #114 on: March 20, 2010, 09:20:27 AM »

Painting the repaired part.
and the axles ready to install.


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« Reply #115 on: March 20, 2010, 09:25:24 AM »

Ok the frame is now on all 4 wheels.


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« Reply #116 on: March 20, 2010, 09:28:49 AM »

more pics.


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« Reply #117 on: March 20, 2010, 11:02:37 AM »

SUPER nice job!!!!!
I got the templates this week. THANK YOU!!!!! It looks like the pop tops front spring hanger mounting holes are very close to the 80-93.

You should be proud of your rolling chassis!!
Jim
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« Reply #118 on: March 24, 2010, 08:20:37 PM »

 Agree Beer
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1975 Plymouth Trail Duster Sport.  440/727, 203/205 doubler, Dana 60 front and 70 rear.  Still under construction...

1977 Dodge Power Wagon W200 Crew Cab.  Next project.

2002 2500 Quad Cab Short Bed 4x4.  Cummins HO w/ NV5600 six speed.
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« Reply #119 on: March 30, 2010, 08:29:18 AM »

OK I bought some pre-bent stainless lines from Inline Tube. They didn't have a listing for the 74 RC. So I bought a 79 RC kit. So far only a couple of small problems. The lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve are routed different. My 74 has a bracket that bolts to the frame that the lines snapped into. The 79 doesn't.
Also one of the flare nuts that go into the Proportioning valve was the wrong size. I had to grind the flare off switch nuts and re-flare the tube. No big deal.
I started to clean the fuel tank, and i need the filler tube grommet. Does anybody know where to get these?


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« Reply #120 on: March 30, 2010, 09:33:16 AM »

Once again; SUPER JOB!!!!!!!!
Jim


PS, & A +1 for ya.
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« Reply #121 on: March 30, 2010, 09:06:43 PM »

All I can say is WOW and WOW. Excellent job. You are making great progress on your TD. It inspires me to get back on my truck once all my busy work is done again nice job. I like the shop also.
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1974 Plymouth Duster (orginal car unrestored)
1979 Trail Duster 4X4
1987 R/C 4x4  4 spd
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1990 R/C 4x4 dana 60's (Tigger)
1990 R/C 4x2
1990 Ext Cab long bed 4X4 4 spd.
1992 R/C 4X2 Canyon Sport
1992 Ram Van (skool bus)
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« Reply #122 on: March 30, 2010, 09:10:43 PM »

I need one of those grommets as well, but unfortunately, I don't have any leads for you.
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« Reply #123 on: March 30, 2010, 09:23:55 PM »

I going to take a stab in the dark but I think one from a ram van is the same dodge should still sell them being vans were still being made not long ago. Dodge is good for reusing parts in later models measure it up and try it. Its worth the look any way. Also try looking at other mopars because if Chrysler used it on one vehicle I bet they used it on others maybe a b-body or some thing and year one and other company's remake parts for them. I find a lot of stuff for my trucks from other mopars over the years. I am like a walking truck interchange book. if this works it will be another page for my book. good luck
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1974 Plymouth Duster (orginal car unrestored)
1979 Trail Duster 4X4
1987 R/C 4x4  4 spd
1990 R/C 4x4 BLUE
1990 R/C 4x4 dana 60's (Tigger)
1990 R/C 4x2
1990 Ext Cab long bed 4X4 4 spd.
1992 R/C 4X2 Canyon Sport
1992 Ram Van (skool bus)
1992 Dakota 4x4 ext cab (wifes rig Ya)
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« Reply #124 on: March 30, 2010, 09:45:46 PM »

The best I can find so far is here...
http://www.hardensmcw.com/ShowItem/101919%20Filler%20Neck%20Grommett.aspx
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« Reply #125 on: March 30, 2010, 10:13:42 PM »

I would try to get some specs from them to see if it will fit. Always best to research first then buy then install Try a company called B.E&A.com they are from my neck of the woods and they re-pop parts for a lot of bigger company's
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1974 Plymouth Duster (orginal car unrestored)
1979 Trail Duster 4X4
1987 R/C 4x4  4 spd
1990 R/C 4x4 BLUE
1990 R/C 4x4 dana 60's (Tigger)
1990 R/C 4x2
1990 Ext Cab long bed 4X4 4 spd.
1992 R/C 4X2 Canyon Sport
1992 Ram Van (skool bus)
1992 Dakota 4x4 ext cab (wifes rig Ya)
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« Reply #126 on: March 30, 2010, 11:05:02 PM »

Call the stealership, you would be surprised at what all you can still get. If not try this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-NEW-Fuel-Tank-Filler-Tube-Grommet-B-C-E-Body-/310204716610
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« Reply #127 on: March 31, 2010, 12:22:04 AM »

Wow! Amazing work.
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« Reply #128 on: March 31, 2010, 09:38:43 AM »

Thanks guys. I found a grommet that may work. There are a lot of guys restoring the Little Red Wagons, which means there are a lot of repro parts for them. I did a search for Little Red Wagon Parts and found this

http://www.jimsautoparts.com/nos_truck_parts.htm
He has one for dodge pickup of the same year, and thi picture looks close.

The nice weather is here and that is only making me work harder to get it done for summer.


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« Reply #129 on: March 31, 2010, 09:43:20 AM »

OK Kansas the ebay one looks like it! Thanks.
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« Reply #130 on: April 7, 2010, 08:44:56 AM »

OK, I had the gas tank blasted and there were quite a few holes that popped through.
I decided to repair the gas tank with epoxy.
The epoxy comes in tubes with a mixer on the end. all you have to do is squeeze the gun and it proportions the amount properly.
Once I laid the epoxy out I used a bondo spreader to spread the epoxy.
the pictures also show the plugs I made for the tank when it was blasted.


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« Reply #131 on: April 7, 2010, 08:48:26 AM »

more pics


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« Reply #132 on: April 7, 2010, 09:29:16 AM »

Eastwood makes a good "inside" tank sealer I would recommend also.  Yes
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« Reply #133 on: April 7, 2010, 03:08:16 PM »

I've used it on a motorcycle once. It works good
The inside od the tank looks pretty clean, I spread the epoxy pretty hard, and it forced it into the holes. I think that will do.
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« Reply #134 on: April 7, 2010, 04:33:59 PM »

Epoxy Is the greatest invention ever!!!! Wink. Do you use the same epoxy for your pump repair also?
Jim
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« Reply #135 on: April 8, 2010, 07:14:26 AM »

yes Jim, We use it to repair housings, and to protect from abrasive wear, and chemical attack. It is great stuff.
There are some pictures of it on my website
www.pro-pump.com
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« Reply #136 on: April 8, 2010, 07:47:43 AM »

OK I got the shocks installed.
The shocks came with bushings but no washers, so I had to make my own.
I used zinc coated washers and pressed a bearing into them to give them a cup.
Next I had to trim the larger washers so they cleared the shock.


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« Reply #137 on: April 8, 2010, 07:58:52 AM »

Here is my version of a dual setup for the front. I just extended the top and bottom mounts to add another shock.
I put the hole for the lower mount too close to the axle, but all I did was trim the spring bracket.
I will need to trim the inner fender, but not much.


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« Reply #138 on: April 8, 2010, 08:06:20 AM »

The rear dual setup
Does anybody have a picture of a 440 with A/C. I took the ac unit off of the 318, and the brackets are wrong. I need to see if I have the correct pulleys, and I need to see how it is mounted.

Also I ran my fuel lines, and bought a new fuel pump. the pump only has 2 ports, same as the old one. Where does the return fuel line connect. it was not connected on either truck I have. If anybody has a picture of how the fuel lines connect from the frame to the engine it would help.

One more thing. Does anyone know where I can find new e-brake cables. I bought my fuel and brake lines from inline tube, but they have no pattern for this era rc. They want the old ones for a sample. Unfortunately mine are hacked up.


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« Reply #139 on: April 8, 2010, 05:07:58 PM »

Well, I don't have the correct crank pulley for a/c. does anyone have any parts from an A/C 440. I know I need the crank pulley (4 groove), maybe the water pump pulley. and I need the mounting brackets for the compressor.
Bouchillon has a kit for the 440 but it is quite salty.
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« Reply #140 on: April 8, 2010, 05:25:38 PM »

Take a look through my 440 build thread. I mounted a 80s AC pump on my 440 & there are a few pics of the mount brackets in that thread. That pump repair epoxy is some great stuff!!!!!!

One again AWESOME job!!!!!
Jim
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« Reply #141 on: April 8, 2010, 06:26:50 PM »

Just to satisfy my curiosity, why did you go with the dual shock setups fore and aft?
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« Reply #142 on: April 8, 2010, 06:37:52 PM »

if worse comes to worse try O'riely's for the e-brake cable i had too go thru them to get 1 for mine.not sure if yours is the same set up though? Huh
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« Reply #143 on: April 9, 2010, 01:36:37 PM »

i have gotten mine from NAPA. my goto place when nobody else has the stuff. (this is just because of their open hrs other wise i would goto them more)
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« Reply #144 on: April 9, 2010, 02:39:08 PM »

Well RVA, We go to Silver Lake Michigan, and there are times when the sand has a lot of mougals (my kids call them woopdi doos). When driving over these the truck really gets bouncin' I was hoping to settle this down a bit.
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« Reply #145 on: April 9, 2010, 04:30:02 PM »

Thanks! That's going to be one slick ride when you're done!
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« Reply #146 on: April 9, 2010, 04:37:23 PM »

Did you ever see my 440 RC out there? The Guy I bought it from use to go out there.
Jim
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« Reply #147 on: April 9, 2010, 07:13:28 PM »

looking good. I go to NAPA for the harder to find dodge parts. If they don't have them they can get them. I would check moparts.com to find the A/C stuff you need 440 truck should be the same as 440 car as far as the brackets go. I like the duel shock set up sweet. On my dodge trucks I have a fuel filter that has 3 ports one inlet one out-let and the third is for the return line it should be 5/16 line. The nipple will stick out from the side and run back to the tank sender. If memory serves me right. Hope this helps.

like I said looking good. I like the silver parts on a black frame.
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« Reply #148 on: April 10, 2010, 09:02:36 AM »

Zandord, where is the filter located. is it near the pump?
Jim, what year and color. there aren't many rc's out there.
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« Reply #149 on: April 10, 2010, 10:34:05 AM »

It's a 1988 RC with the 440 under the hood. Here's a pic.
I also included one of my AC mount for ya.
Jim


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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
1988 RC.440,4" lift,727 
BIG BLOCKS RULE !!!!!!!
440 pics
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