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85 d150 baja build

25K views 46 replies 16 participants last post by  empty_pockets 
#1 ·
whats up fellas, my plan is to build a fun cheap entry level truck to have a blast in some races next year, not doing this to win money, just for the experience in doing so!

Im turning this d150 2wd w/ a 318 in a class 8100 or full stock class



Tryin to figure out what all i can get away with on the 8100 class... the dodge has the jacked up 'a arms' that have that 'strut'bar going toward core support, so im thinking some 1ton springs or some cheap coil spacers to get a little more lift to fit some 33's on it all around, a block set in back for lift, and some decent FOA shocks on all four corners, along w/ new bushings/tierods/ball joints

anyone got any ideas for the front suspension on these old things? rear? how could i acheive more travel w/ my factory leafs?



here is the suspension im dealing with, the lca mount seems only spot welded or bolt on, would it be agains the rules to weld that mount solid to the actual frame? or skip weld?
 
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#2 ·
As far as the rear suspension, I'd avoid blocks at all cost.  Running through the desert, using blocks, is gonna put lots of stress on the u-bolts.  I'd get with Jungle (a member and vendor here)  and get a flip kit.  That would provide better travel, a better ride and some lift.  All while not welding anything or using very much "not stock" stuff  ;D  As far as front suspension goes, first things first box the lca's I don't remember if the rules allow that or not, but I think they do because it's not so much a performance cheat as a safety issue.  I'm trying to find a rule book now to confirm this.  The 1-ton springs sound like a good idea.  Again, I'm gonna advise against using spacers on the front springs.  Haulin' your cookies across the desert can be a hell of a lot of fun, but if everything isn't completely safe, it can turn into a very bad day  ;D 
 
#3 ·
Look at this, I think your class is on page 51. Looks like you can reinforce stuff as long as you keep the same basic idea that the factory had. Kinda gives a little more leeway than I remember.

http://hdrarace.com/rule-book/2012-edition/

Hope I've been at least a little help. Have fun, and be sure to post pics ;D
 
#5 ·
thanks fellas!

Im actually already overaxle on the leafs!

does anyone know the length of 1ton coils? i may have found some off a 1ton ford but dont want to lift it to high

in process of pulling engine




gonna go ahead and brace/box in all control arms and weld all rivited mounts, what im gonna do is make the strut rod into a heimjoint type end instead of the dual bushing type that comes factory! any input on this?
just trying to get the most outta this suspension!

thanks for all the help!!
 
#6 ·







here you can see that on full compression w. the bumpstop cut off, the upper ball join is limiting further compression, on full droop the little dimple on the upper a-arm is hitting the coil pocket, i am mounting dual shocks on the top of the upper control arms, and building a engine cage/shock hoops for them, im waiting to see what coils i will actually be running, i may modify the upper a arm quite a bit to bend the ball joint part downward to for less of a chance of binding, and removing the dimpled part as well

input is always welcome and wanted!

thanks
 
#8 ·






I know progress is slow, but w/ a 2yr old and a 4yr old as your 'helpers' it gets kinda hard to find tools they run off with! but making memories with them and working on trucks is more fun to me than anything! they love working on it!

Im getting absolutly NO droop as expected with these leafs, now im almost tempted since im running the sportsman class, thinkin of a 4link/trailing arm setup but thats later down the road!

Whats yalls opinion on rear leafs? everyone is saying Deavers, yes but if i wanna spend 1k on springs ill go ahead and 4 link it and use coilovers!
 
#9 ·
YES!!!!! This is awesome!!

I was looking into racing with my truck, but I just couldn't find a good class to really fit it into. Plus racing is EXPENSIVE.

Anyway, I was looking at the HDRA rulebook link that powerdragon posted, And it looks like they give you a little bit of leeway on the suspension (more than I thought at least). Thay say that The suspension must retain the same BASIC design as stock, and may be strengthened, reinforced, or replaced. Just knock all that stock bs off and do some fat a-arms on there, thats basically what you have now.

As for the rear, eh, I dont know... Deaver doesn't make anything for our trucks from what I have seen, You could custom make a leaf pack, or look into Alcan, but like you said... Might as well just link it!! Leaves are for trees anyway.

Yahtzee!!
 
#12 ·
#13 ·
krown said:
That RC is BAD!!! anymore pics? yours? that is gnarly!

the more i look at the janky suspension and its rivets it makes me wanna just start fresh!
No that silver monster is not mine. I want it real bad though.

As far as your suspension, JUUUST DOO ITTTT!!!!

krown said:
also gonna run the walker evans fiberglass fenders, im ALMOST to the point of making it a shortbed, and using the Evans bedsides as well!

Whats the wheelbase of a Shortbed?
Yeah I plan on using the Walker Evans Glass too, but Im not sure on the wheelbase length. It probably wont fit on yours though. Might have to just pull your own steel sides!
 
#16 ·
The 2 big things I would be interested in are how to put trailing arms (that work) on a 1st gen and how to modify or where to get control arms that allow some more articulation from the ball joint.  When I had a 2wd Ranger, I remember there being some drop down brackets for the I-beams.  Would a bracket something like that work on the lower control arm of our trucks? Anyone know?
 
#17 ·
the first thing you need to do is get rid of the cinder-blocks before you get hurt! and if you must use them, wood on top and bottom, and turn them the proper direction. thats dangerous man!
 
#18 ·
m-o-p-a-r said:
the first thing you need to do is get rid of the cinder-blocks before you get hurt! and if you must use them, wood on top and bottom, and turn them the proper direction. thats dangerous man!
I was wondering when somebody was gonna say something about the blocks. :eek: Very dangerous!
 
#20 ·






got bored, modified the uppercontrol arm to see if i could get some more travel, its still hitting the spring pocket lip, but im getting about 3" more 'droop' then stock and with the stock springs and no spacers..... if i end up using the factory control arms im gonna cut some more outta the control arm and box/brace it all in and build mounts on it for the shocks
 
#21 ·
SixGun said:
The 2 big things I would be interested in are how to put trailing arms (that work) on a 1st gen and how to modify or where to get control arms that allow some more articulation from the ball joint. When I had a 2wd Ranger, I remember there being some drop down brackets for the I-beams. Would a bracket something like that work on the lower control arm of our trucks? Anyone know?
Trailing arms should be easy cheesy. Why would they not work? And since these trucks are so generally unpopular, I doubt there is anything in the way of 2WD suspension for them. Thats why I'm saying just burn all that crap off make some new A-arms for it. It's just gonna save time!!
 
#22 ·
Look at these guys. They did it the right way and junked the stock front end and started fresh!!





BURN IT ALL OFF!!! :D
 
#23 ·
madmax_087 said:
Look at these guys. They did it the right way and junked the stock front end and started fresh!!





BURN IT ALL OFF!!! :D
COOL! ;D
 
#24 ·
hey man you look like you really have the gears turning to make a prearunner/trophy style truck. Im not sure about suspension yet if i find something ill send you a link but i wanted to let you know if you didnt know already is that you can no longer get walker evans fenders but here is a link to a sight that does have them http://www.off-roadfiberglass.com/offroad/80sdodge.htm i have been looking at these for my ramcharger.
hope this helps
Bill
 
#26 ·
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