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Topic: Don't attempt this at home.....  (Read 762 times)
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cooper30
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« on: March 11, 2010, 04:48:10 PM »

I just read in the roofing thread about people who say that the average person shouldn't attempt certain things at home....such as roofing or installing electronics in your vehicle.

Yesterday, I troubleshot a cel in my '06 Sierra to a bad evap solenoid vent valve.  I also found a tsb out about it, and there is a new replacement valve that has a remote intake filter to be installed above the tranny.  The original set up is stupid as it's a dust and dirt magnet.

After calling around, I found out the part was cheapest at a dealer, so I went to the closest Chevy dealer.  The parts guy just about fell over himself telling me how this is a complicated procedure best left to GM techs.....to the tune of $700-$1200 depending on any "complications".

 Cost me $120 for the valve, $25 for heater hose and clamps, and took me a little more than an hour to install it....most of that time was spent r&ring the bed (easier to remove the bed than drop gas tank).

Anyone else have any interesting "best left to professionals" stories?
« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 04:51:13 PM by cooper30 » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2010, 06:22:56 PM »

 Yeah Gears. I paid a shop that I trusted to do the gears in my TD about 3 1/2 years ago and the rear is going out I have a lot of slop in it now. I paid them a good deal of money expecting to not ever have to do it again, well now I will be getting the tools and doing it myself. Oh and transmissions too I wont ever pay a shop to do that either. "Professional" is used too loosly now a days I figure if I do it, it removes several people (Professionals) from the blame game when something goes wrong.
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2010, 07:02:29 PM »

I had acquired enough tools to do just about anything now. I need a few dial indicators yet though.  Undecided

I refuse to pay someone to do work I can do unless I don't have the time.

I still know a guy that will do my trans rebuilds (727) for $500 if I drop it off.  Wink But that will end soon too as I am going to "learn myself" the tricks to the 727's  Wink

I really haven't heard "you need a "pro" to install this for you in years. But I go to the same places for stuff all the time so they know me.  Grin

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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2010, 07:08:59 PM »

How about your average brake job?  Dealer job for front&rear can run about $500 to $1000.  I'm sure we've all done it for about $100 in parts.
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2010, 07:26:28 PM »

With the exception of welding the brackets on to my rear axle and putting the disc brake hardware on them, I have BUILT my truck! A shop charged me $400 and I'm not great at welding at all (hopefully, once i get this garage built, that will change). I swapped the front axle to a non cad unit, lifted it 4" with new springs on the front, flipped the shackle and added a leaf to the rear, Installed 4:56's in place of the 4:10's along with new diffs,  researched hydraulics and added my winch (with my neighbors help, we fabbed a front bumper for it). Pulled my transmission and case, replaced the old 360 with a TBI version (tank, lines, wiring) and reinstalled with a new clutch, rewired my whole truck (approx 20 hours with a multimeter) Shocked  installed new seats and gauge panel. I have almost every tool needed to work on this rig. If i find i need a special tool to do something, I buy it Wink Now, tell me again. What is a mechanic? Roll Eyes This truck has been a great teacher and this website is a very useful tool!
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2010, 07:43:46 PM »

The parts guy just about fell over himself telling me how this is a complicated procedure best left to GM techs.....to the tune of $700-$1200 depending on any "complications".

 Cost me $120 for the ....... and took me a little more than an hour to install it....most of that time was spent r&ring the bed (easier to remove the bed than drop gas tank).


Funny that you mention R&R the bed vs drop gas tank. Fuel pump job cost that same amount and requires the same labor, but can also be done for the price you did with the procedures you did.

Actually, don't remove the bed, just loosen it.

Lifting bed for fuel pump
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2010, 07:55:34 PM »

That's how I did the one on my old Dakota.  Grin

OK I used an engine hoist to lift the bed then blocked it with wood.  Wink
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« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2010, 08:55:45 PM »

Have a '99 - 300m.  Jumped in it one day last summer and started down road - WTF - only had 2nd gear, and then discoverd I had reverse and 2nd.  Parked it and figured I'd have to take it to mech.s 60 miles away.  (I was trained to be mech in the '70s, and never have been a mech, so new electronics etc are all mystery to me.)  Had to work for next 8 days so didn't have time to take in and also wasn't looking forward to driving 60miles in 2nd gear at about 95* out.  So, I got out FSM and started studying - first time reading through, I had no idea what I had just read.  After about 5 or 6 reads, I had 3 possibles.  Did some research on internet at a 300m website and checked parts stores.  Damn, wasn't a $4. fuse.  Next thing I  thought I could deal with was speed sensor (speedo worked so it wasn't output sensor) - so bought input speed sensor for about $25. and had to buy a 1 1/4 - 3/8 drive deep socket.  Jacked it up, crawled under, and in about 3 minutes had sensor replaced.  Fixed.  Shop probably could have soaked me for several hundred dollars.  Lessons -  FSM is valuable resource - Internet is amazing for info (RCC is unbeatable for Dodge trucks).  Don't need to be super mech, with basic mech abilities, study time, and PATIENCE, a fella can do more than they think!!
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« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2010, 07:28:46 AM »

you guys are completely right, especially about dealerships. i myself am a mechanic and generally 99% of the time work on my own stuff unless its something that i just absolutely have no clue on or the other guys in the shop dont know about (like when my 6.5 diesel took a dump.) but i work for a bmw dealership so to be blunt the clientel we deal with usually are the suck a## doctors and lawyer types. but a perfect example of how much customers can be overcharged- yesterday i had a 2005 328xi come in for a oil burning smell. simple enought the valve cover gasket was leaking which is typical. the ticket was customer pay as they were out of warranty. the customer was charged 7 hours for labor going by bmw labor times. it took me all of an hour to get the cover off and clean it, then another hour and a half to go back on, clean it up and test drive. granted ive done several valve cover gaskets mostly because we have been having a huge lifter recall lately so its pretty gravy. but our labor rate is $88 an hour. 88x7= $616 plus the gasket cost. i never paid attention to the labor time and when i realized how high it was i said something to my service writer. their answer was "thats what bmw says it takes so thats what we charge. kinda made me feel bad about my job knowing i was raking someone over the coals that much. but other than diagnosing bad modules, electrical bugs, or software programming issues, most repairs even on a new bmw could be done by the average person
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« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2010, 07:54:34 AM »

How much do you guys charge for diagnostic time? Many places use a straight 1 hour.

If that was the case....I think you would no longer feel guilty when a cheap customer brings something in requiring 6 hours to find an intermittent fault, you get paid your 1 hour, and then they roll out and take it to pep boys to have ___ module replaced.  Cheesy
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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2010, 08:01:03 AM »

One of these days I need to do a write up on the diagnostic software I bought.  It's already paid for itself.  I got it from Palmer Performance.


How about your average brake job?  Dealer job for front&rear can run about $500 to $1000.  I'm sure we've all done it for about $100 in parts.


A brake job was what got me into working on my vehicles in the first place....that was about 10 years ago.  Before that, changing the oil and a flat was the limit of my knowledge.
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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2010, 08:39:27 AM »

One of these days I need to do a write up on the diagnostic software I bought.  It's already paid for itself.  I got it from Palmer Performance.


A youtube video would be nice....  Popcorn
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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2010, 10:13:34 AM »

A youtube video would be nice....  Popcorn

He can't do that here Rory has the you-boob rights.  Tongue

but our labor rate is $88 an hour. 88x7= $616 plus the gasket cost.

WOW! I guess I need to charge more for my shop rate here, it's $18hr.
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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2010, 10:34:20 AM »

1978 I worked at Pontiac/Cad dealership - labor rate was $16., mechs were paid $8. - mechs also went on strike that year!
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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2010, 10:46:43 AM »

1978 I worked at Pontiac/Cad dealership - labor rate was $16., mechs were paid $8. - mechs also went on strike that year!

I worked at a Cheby dealer in 81-82 and made $3.75hr......  Tongue
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« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2010, 10:51:43 AM »

1978 I worked at Pontiac/Cad dealership - labor rate was $16., mechs were paid $8. - mechs also went on strike that year!

Sad thing is...percentage wise you made A LOT more.  Shocked

Now you are looking at an average right around $100/hr and the mechanic is paid between $15-$20 (average combining highs and lows)

Was 50% of total labor rate, now it's 20% or there about.

Let's not forget the markup on parts. On the cheapest items like washers and seals, markup could be 1,000%
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« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2010, 10:57:20 AM »

I worked at a Cheby dealer in 81-82 and made $3.75hr......  Tongue
And at your age, probably thought you had the world by the tail.  Cool
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« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2010, 12:03:44 PM »

And at your age, probably thought you had the world by the tail.  Cool

OH yeah since I was working on the farm part time too and only making $2.50hr there from my Uncle.  Grin
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« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2010, 01:02:39 PM »

Quote
How much do you guys charge for diagnostic time? Many places use a straight 1 hour

if its a warranty job we dont get any diagnostic time for the most part. unless its a real headache car that we have multiple hours in then we usually get 75% of what we had in the job for diag. on customer pay to diagnose a check engine light its a flat half hour. our warranty jobs suck, so like most places our paycheck comes from customer pay for the most part. and your right on the wages too joe. me personally i make $19 and there are two older techs that have i think two more credited classes than me but i dont think they make over $25. most of the new guys get started at $12-$15 depending on training or experience.
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« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2010, 12:37:37 AM »

When I worked at the dealership brake jobs were anywhere from $550 to $650 on average that way usually front and rear (can't remember if that was turning the rotors (drums) or not Huh). Timing belts on a V6-dual overhead cam engine, front wheel drive van were just under a $1000 I think. I got paid $7.00 +$25 incentive after 25 hours of production. Then another $25 incentive ever 5 hours after wards. All the way up to 60 hours in production. I was the lowest paid tech in the shop so guess who got all the brake jobs and stuff like that? It was really nice though because I usually got a lot of incentive money on my paycheck. Brake jobs aren't cheap at shops anymore, nothing really is.
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« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2010, 12:48:34 AM »

Dang and O though $100 for brakes plus hardware was enough. I guess I need to raise those prices too!  Shocked
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« Reply #21 on: March 13, 2010, 10:11:19 AM »

u-joints...


i was told u-joints are extremely complicated and you need a press to remove them..


with a light hammer and punch i can change u-joints in under 30 mins  Roll Eyes

(BTW i didnt pay for u-joints to get removed  Grin )
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« Reply #22 on: March 14, 2010, 09:04:56 AM »

At my shop labor is 65 hr.  Brake jobs are 149.99 per axle up to a one ton then they are 175.00.
That is parts and labor (unless you need hard parts like rotors or calipers) and includes turning the rotors. also includes a garauntee.

I work for no less than 50% straight commision.
Timing belts? easy enough. just did a V6 Saturn last week Labor cost 489.oo parts 2200.oo (yup) dealer item only parts. Now WHO is raping WHO? btw 2200.oo was OUR cost Customer parts cost was 2250.oo

By the same token i also did a Honda civic timing belt  labor 150.oo parts 124.95 . So where is the fairness there? i dunno

Going to a mechanic shop to have work done is simple. Always remember a few things
1[ ALWAYS get a second opinion
2[ never settle for second rate work or parts
3[ ALWAYS look at employees personal vehicles including owners...are they less than 4 yrs old? newer vehicles sometimes mean they charge more ( not always )
4[Ask around.....word of mouth reputation can be a money saver and still get a good job done.
I have been in this business for about 30 yrs and have seen these questions asked and seen people get a better job for less cash  just by asking the right questions and keeping thier eyes open.


One last food for thought;We are doctors for your cars , right?
                            WHY DOESNT ANYONE COMPLAIN OR DO ANYTHING ABOUT PAYING 300.OO FOR YOUR MEDICAL DOCTORS SIGNATURE. bUT CRY ABOUT SPENDING 3.76 FOR A SPARK PLUG FOR THEIR CAR?

I AM NOT TELLING YOU THAT YOU ARE WHINING OVER THE SHOP CHARGES AND NOT REALLY DEFENDING ANY SHOP.
I like some mechanics work my ass of for a 4-500 weekly paycheck and i can sleep at night. OR i can get a 800. weekly paycheck and sdrive a new cummins Smiley
 Which would you rather see?
I see the prices in the ealeir parts of this thread and i can see why some are appalled and dont understand what others are complaining about.
will be continued
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« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2010, 09:28:03 AM »

continuing my rant

For yrs i have seen the new kids come in all full of themselves and think they know all there is to know. Read on and you will see hwere i am going with this statement.

but for those of us that cant afford a new vehicles my newest vehicle is a 91. my oldest is a 45

ask a young mechanic what the points setting is for a 71 chevy C10 with a 350 engine.
Here comes the deer in the headlight look....lol
By the same token ask an older mechanic what the spec values are of a crank sensor on a 2010 dodge ram with a 4.7.hmmmm same look right?....lol

Both mechanics have the same right to those looks when asked only difference is the older mechanic cant afford the traing and has to learn by experience.


Getting to the end of my rant.

We just did the taxes for last year and i was amazed at what it cost me to do my job last yr.  Income 42000....new tools to do the job 14000...training.15000. So in essence i only made roughly 13-15000 last year to pay my bills.hmmmm

I am one of the better paid Techs in my town and rated (customer choice poll 2 yrs ago) One of the most trusted Techs.
and i dont drive an new vehicle but customers are always in awww at how well my older vehicles run.

You may have to read my rant more than once to get my point but you will get it. I have faith in you.

AND BY ALL MEANS IF YOU HAVE THE KNOWLEGDE OR ARE WILLING TO GET THE KNOWLEDGE AND ARE CAPABLE TO DO IT YOURSELF , then do so. you will be in a better position to not be taken by backhanded mechanics when you HAVE to go that route.

So please dont get upset at the techs , get upset at the times.

KUDOS to DIY people

I love this site and i must say THANKS sam for starting it.
ok i am done.
TOODLES!!!!!!!
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88 ramcharger 2wd 6 inch lift 33x12.5x15
84 dodge 3/4 ton 4x4
76 chevy p/u 472 cid with 400 trans 2wd
90 dodge 3/4 ton 4X4
1990 IROC camaro
1973 Plymouth Duster soon 2 b Pro Street
1974 chevy el camino SS
1991 Dodge Cummins Dually
1990 Dodge Dakota
1971 Ply.Valiant
Asymetric
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RCC Rules!


« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2010, 12:05:32 PM »

Yeah Gears. I paid a shop that I trusted to do the gears in my TD about 3 1/2 years ago and the rear is going out I have a lot of slop in it now. I paid them a good deal of money expecting to not ever have to do it again, well now I will be getting the tools and doing it myself. Oh and transmissions too I wont ever pay a shop to do that either. "Professional" is used too loosly now a days I figure if I do it, it removes several people (Professionals) from the blame game when something goes wrong.

Thats because you CARE about your truck.  Some mechanics will charge you the hours listed in the book and then get it done in 1/4 that time by cutting corners. They likely just bolted the gears in and called it good with whatever amount of backlash and contact there happened to be.

In every direction in life, more and more I am taking care of my own issues because other people dont seem to CARE about what i hire them to work on, just cashing my check.
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lib·er·al: [lib-er-uhl, lib-ruhl] -adjective:
A person so open-minded, their brains have fallen out.
malebiker1
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NEED A LIFT????????


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« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2010, 01:00:32 PM »


In every direction in life, more and more I am taking care of my own issues because other people dont seem to CARE about what i hire them to work on, just cashing my check.

Aint that the truth. There is less and less pride in workmanship these days. thats why i try to treat EVERY vehicle as tho it was mine or my mom's.

That is why i CAN sleep at night. Smiley
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88 ramcharger 2wd 6 inch lift 33x12.5x15
84 dodge 3/4 ton 4x4
76 chevy p/u 472 cid with 400 trans 2wd
90 dodge 3/4 ton 4X4
1990 IROC camaro
1973 Plymouth Duster soon 2 b Pro Street
1974 chevy el camino SS
1991 Dodge Cummins Dually
1990 Dodge Dakota
1971 Ply.Valiant
RamBoy89
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Up North, MN

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Mopar.


« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2010, 12:12:47 AM »

I love taking pride in every job I do, no matter if it's my own vehicle or another person's vehicle. I always make sure it's done right and to my own standard and the customers. That's what keeps them coming back and my name clean and trustworthy at what I do.
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"Snap it off, then back it off two turns."
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DA MOOSE


« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2010, 12:16:54 PM »

the customer was charged 7 hours for labor going by bmw labor times.   but our labor rate is $88 an hour. 88x7= $616 plus the gasket cost. i never paid attention to the labor time and when i realized how high it was i said something to my service writer. their answer was "thats what bmw says it takes so thats what we charge
so did you get paid for the 7 hours per BMW or did you only get paid for the 3 something hours you spent on it ? I worked for a dealership  back in 85 to 90 and hated it they would rip people off big time. as well as the employees.
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