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Topic: Cummins RC build need some tech info for upgades as i go daily driver light tow"  (Read 1124 times)
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« on: February 3, 2010, 12:56:24 PM »

hey guys i am putting a 89 cummins with a getrag into my RC here is the link to the pics section http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php/topic,126727.0.html    but the first question i have is the motor has a H1C on ti that needs a good rebuild got the kit aand while i was at it i figured i should upgrade while i am at it.. i got a waste gated 12cm housing the other day in a trade would that be a better choice then the 18 that is on it ?? what benifits would i get from the 12 other then fast spool




also what else should i upgrade while the motor is out on the stand ve pump is taken care of Smiley  what about feed pump etc....   

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« Reply #1 on: February 3, 2010, 02:00:07 PM »

The low pressure piston Lp is a great up grade, Also don't forget the KDP.
Jim
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« Reply #2 on: February 3, 2010, 02:15:06 PM »

yep a full re seal of the motor is on the list so while i have it apart the KDP and bolts will be done as for the LP lift pum ya mean this one ?
if so do we need the line for the first gen trucks?? or just the pump plate and gaskets?

JC


* piston pump.jpg (50.02 KB, 640x608 - viewed 29 times.)
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« Reply #3 on: February 3, 2010, 02:56:16 PM »

That looks like it. Take a look at my gold RC build thread & you will see one on my CTD on the stand.
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« Reply #4 on: February 4, 2010, 04:31:03 AM »

One thing I'm going to do on my install is run a -08 (1/2") fuel supply line from the tank to the lift pump. That little 1/4" line can cause some starvation issues to the LP/IP.


I fixed my typo.
Thanks Joe!!!
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« Reply #5 on: February 4, 2010, 04:47:36 AM »

swamthang. I just realized something.

You have a H1C turbo. Just want to point out, that the 12cm "H1C" (WH1C) was only offered for a brief time in early '94 before the HX35 replaced it. If I am not mistaken, don't the require a different turbine housing? Nevermind, it appears H1/HX seems interchangable minus some possible down pipe mods on some trucks.
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« Reply #6 on: February 4, 2010, 02:39:48 PM »

ya i think it will work on my application. I am kind of doing a non ic ic hybrid type motor some of the things i am putting on it are ic type parts and some are still the stock ic motor


the 12cm housing i got was kind of a in the deal thing just happened across it figured it cant hurt anything compared to the 18 housing on it now should help me spool up better and get me a bit better milage and power Smiley   


so so far my list is

KDP killed/bolts
piston pump upgrade
H1C rebuild/upgrade to 12cm housing
1/2in fuel feed lines
getrag 2wd to 4x4 conversion
electric fan mod
intstall IC rad

JC
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« Reply #7 on: February 4, 2010, 03:36:56 PM »

Thanks Joe!!!!!
I fixed it.
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« Reply #8 on: February 5, 2010, 06:51:54 PM »

I heard alot of guys saw that those electric fans are not capable of keeping the engine cool and can cause overheating issues, not good for a street driven rig.

I dont have evidence to support that... just word of mouth.
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« Reply #9 on: February 5, 2010, 07:06:29 PM »

I heard alot of guys saw that those electric fans are not capable of keeping the engine cool and can cause overheating issues, not good for a street driven rig.

I dont have evidence to support that... just word of mouth.

I heard it originally as well. I'm not sure a single one of them had evidence to support it. Grin

The secret is you have to use a high quality fan, possibly even a dual fan. HIGH QUALITY, not over inflated numbers. It takes ~1amp/100cfm. When you see "2500cfm 10amps" it is mostly BS. The ford tore-ass fan is superior to most aftermarket units, 2 of them will fit quite nicely on a 2nd gen, probably cant fit 2 on a 1st gen.

These fans are cooling 600hp hot rods which may have a marginal radiator to begin with, and naturally run hot.

To further add to that, over 30mph, wind takes over and many oems just plain shut their fans off over 30mph. (dodge does with some gas vehicles)
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« Reply #10 on: February 5, 2010, 07:39:26 PM »

the fan i am going to use are from a 2001 grand prix it is a dual fan with built in shroud one fan will run most of the time and the second kicks in when the engine starts to work hard i never had over heating problems with this exact setup on my 91 that reg cab 4x4 pump turned way up PODS and i hot shoted with it Smiley     i like the set up plus when i wire it up i have a master kill in the dash so i can shut them down completly if i need to like for a quick warm up normaly the thermostat in the rad dose a good job tho


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« Reply #11 on: February 7, 2010, 08:00:07 PM »

I used electric fans out of a 1994 Chrysler LH car (intrepid, LHS, concorde) and they work fine.  They have high and low speed and both fans operate at different speeds to combat noise.  I pull my trailer up a 6 to 7% grade in 90 degree heat for about 8 miles and it was starting to get a bit warm.

If you are going to tow, get airbags and a good weight distributing hitch.  It takes towing from a white knuckle ride to crusin with two fingers on the wheel.
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« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2010, 09:09:59 PM »

the electric fans should do fine for a daily driver rig. if you tow heavy expect to overheat.  a gated 12 is a great housing for a 5spd truck imo. my crew cab had one and it was a blast to drive around town. the spool up is pretty quick, i want one for my 92.
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« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2010, 09:18:07 PM »

JC, for what it's worth, I have the stock mechanical fan on my '93, and I have never had any issues with temps, ever, even when towing heaaavy.  IMHO the fan shroud is the most important part of a fan setup - in other words not having one is worse than the type of fan itself.

Nacho's monster rad and monster dual fan gig worked great....right up until the temp control switch burned out and my fan functionality stopped....right in the middle of Hells Revenge too.  Mechanical all the way for me.

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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2010, 09:22:05 PM »

swamthang. I just realized something.

You have a H1C turbo. Just want to point out, that the 12cm "H1C" (WH1C) was only offered for a brief time in early '94 before the HX35 replaced it. If I am not mistaken, don't the require a different turbine housing? Nevermind, it appears H1/HX seems interchangable minus some possible down pipe mods on some trucks.

The 1994 WH1C has the same exact size compressor wheel and turbine wheel as the later 1995-98.5' HX35, there is no difference.  56mm inducer diameter, FWIW.
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« Reply #15 on: February 10, 2010, 09:32:12 PM »

The 1994 WH1C has the same exact size compressor wheel and turbine wheel as the later 1995-98.5' HX35, there is no difference.  56mm inducer diameter, FWIW.

I know the sizing is the same, I wasn't sure if the turbine housing would fit. I know for sure, a HX35 compressor housing won't fit, couldn't remember if the turbine housing would, so I went and checked and found that 89-02 is basically compatible.
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« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2010, 03:57:38 AM »

ok got the tank out time for the fule line up grade/replace i need to upgrade the suction line in the tankit is the plastic one what would be the best way to do this ??  drill out and install compression fitting? as for the rest of the lines where would be the best place to get 1/2 stell line in bulk to remake the lines?  i can bend them my self no prob from the originals


will alum lines be ok for the hard line section??  i canget good prices on a roll of alum 1/2 line and just bend to match the factory lines with a few mods where i dont like where they run Smiley  found a 1/2 inch bulkhead conector with built in check valve would that be a good idea to have a check valve in line for the suction side? 



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« Reply #17 on: February 18, 2010, 03:37:11 PM »

Jc,
Try a search for draw straws. They mount right threw the top of the tank & are setup for the 1/2" lines.
Jim
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« Reply #18 on: February 18, 2010, 03:46:36 PM »

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/81.htm

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« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2010, 03:52:25 PM »

Thanks Joe!!!!!!
That's what I was talking about.
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« Reply #20 on: February 18, 2010, 04:06:49 PM »

No prob, there are even a few members running them, although it is mostly used for high-zoot 24v with aftermarket lift pumps. The DSII is pretty universal (and cheap) so it could be used for most anything.

As far as aluminum tubing:

It is used on almost every race vehicle out there, even with corrosive alcohols. Diesel will not harm aluminum from the inside, and it will not rust from the outside.

That does not mean it is the end all, be all fuel line. Use some common sense when routing it. Aluminum is soft and more susceptible to rock damage. I don't mean rock crawling damage, I mean flying gravel. Possibly something as simple as plastic wiring harness loom may offer protection, since the fancy spiral armor like used on brake lines is $$$.

It also work-hardens and becomes brittle, which means support it well, with those soft clamps, and leave some soft line to allow for flex.

I don't have a lot of experience with it, but when bending or flaring, you may consider annealing it with a propane torch to keep it from getting brittle while forming it.
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« Reply #21 on: February 18, 2010, 10:49:48 PM »

cool guys thanks the draw straw is exactly what i was going to build but with a bulk head fitting instead of a grommet style just replace the original fuel draw with that Smiley  i may just buy the draw straw tho as it is one 30.00 Smiley     as for the alum fuel line i can easily run it safe and supported i am looking for steel but i cant seem to find anything but straight section i don't want to have alot of splices to worry about which is why i would like to make it a 2 piece run basically from the tank to the trans crossmember area then splice and up to the lift pump etc...  i want to try to make the whole system 1/2 inch and it has to be bio compatible as i will be building my new processor this spring Smiley


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« Reply #22 on: February 18, 2010, 11:11:43 PM »

If you have access to large amounts of "grease", most guns are now running it "straight" (svo, straight-vegetable oil), raw filtered oil, no need for processing. There are some small hitches, like dual tanks, selector valves, and coolant fuel tank heaters, but it may be easier in the end for you.
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« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2010, 03:22:36 AM »

Try McMaster Carr for your aluminum tubing.
Jim
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« Reply #24 on: February 19, 2010, 04:25:28 AM »

If you have access to large amounts of "grease", most guns are now running it "straight" (svo, straight-vegetable oil), raw filtered oil, no need for processing. There are some small hitches, like dual tanks, selector valves, and coolant fuel tank heaters, but it may be easier in the end for you.


ya i had a processor before that i made i sold it to make a bigger one just never got around to it Smiley
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« Reply #25 on: February 19, 2010, 07:08:07 AM »


ya i had a processor before that i made i sold it to make a bigger one just never got around to it Smiley

As previously stated, the dodge reacts well to unprocessed oil with a few quirks.
  • The diaphragm pump cannot handle the thicker viscosity
  • piston pump upgrade required
  • the slower more steady burn may benefit from the advanced timing trick
  • the unprocessed oils require a separate tank and a tank selector valve
  • require separate filtration system
  • tank has a small heater core or external transmission cooler which circulates hot coolant to thin the oil
  • not supposed to run on oil until 140-160º
  • supposed to allow engine to run on diesel/biodiesel for a few minutes to clear it's throat before shutting down

Of course your benefit is less time spent processing and less money spent on methanol and other consumables. You can still process some for the primary tank, but since that tank is only for warm up and shut down, it will last much longer, while the rest of the oil can be pumped straight from the source, to your aux tank, and into the engine.

Means you can pull into a restaurant, pump grease, and be running on that grease as you drive away, w/o even putting it through the processor.
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« Reply #26 on: February 19, 2010, 05:42:36 PM »

biggest problem with straight WVO is the second tank part not much room under a RC to mount a second tank of any real capacity Sad   now on a truck it is easy to do plenty of room on opposite frame rail and where the spare tire sits "rc tank"  i could mount a small like 5 gallon tank to run diesel with and fill the stock 30 something with WVO but i just don't like the idea of straight WVO to many things to go wrong int he system it really is a complet other fuel system to have maintain and worry about heater fluids etc...   leaks and the smell i got from straight WVO was non to pleasing to me smelled like a bad Mexican restaurant and no the oil did not come from one Smiley lol  it was just the smell of it being burnt ..  as for bio it is not that bad of a process to do last batch i made was only 89 cents a gallon after it was ready to run so even with to days cost i should be around $1.00 a gallon for it which is much better than the allmost $3.00 average... but it will be awhile before i get to any of this part of it i just dont want to have to redo the whole system again when it is time to run bio or WVO when the time comes Smiley


JC
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